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So tell me about bullet casting, molds, equipment.

steve45steve45 Member Posts: 2,940 ✭✭✭
I've been thinking I might want to start buying some bullet molds and casting my own bullets. Ive noticed that Lyman bullet molds are more expensive than RCBS or Lee. RCBS and Lee seem to have more modern bullet designs. Can anybody with experience give me a the short course on equipment? I have cast my own .58 caliber mine balls before so I understand the casting process. What would you do to get started in bullet casting. What would you do to cast .45 , .357 , .44 and .30 caliber bullets in quantity? Thanks, Steve

Comments

  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Go here and learn.
    http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/

    There is so much goo information about cast lead projectiles there it will make you head spin.

    Lyman and RCBS molds are iron. Lee uses Aluminum for their molds. With proper care the Lee molds can cast many thousands of good bullets, they are more fragile requiring care when handling.

    Iron molds can last a life time, if cared for, they will rust if not cared for, ruining them. If you are a casual shooter, a Lee mold will serve you well.

    I have several or both type, I use the Lee 6-cavity for production of hundreds of pounds of 45 match bullets. I use Lyman for several rifle calibers and gas checked pistol bullets.
  • steve45steve45 Member Posts: 2,940 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks Bpost, great website, I've saved it to favorites.
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,572 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    So I have been casting for over 40 years and these are my thoughts.

    I get the molds soon as I think they will be outlawed by the EPA. Same for lead. I have only one lee mold as opposed to 50+ Lyman, I don't like RCBS ones any better. Saeco and Hensly&Gibbs are good.

    For 38's, 44's and 45 pistol I have four cavity molds. Most of my rifles are single or double.

    I use a Lyman sizer and luber though I think the Saeco are a better design though more expensive. 50/50 Alox/Beewax meets most of my needs.

    Have at least 3 sets of handles so you can work 3 molds to prevent overheating and yet still allow for production.

    I have a electric bottom drop pot but I almost always use propane and a ladel, easier to keep pot stired.

    E-bay often has hard to find molds but you need to be careful, I try and only deal with folks that cast themselves. It takes little damage to ruin a mold.

    Loverin and Keith are my favorite designs.
  • steve45steve45 Member Posts: 2,940 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks Charliemeyer007, Im looking at 30 cal rifle bullet molds. I would like to get a bullet thats accurate at velocities between 1500 to 1800 fps and 150 gr to 180 gr. Some of the molds pour bullets that have many thin lube grooves (the length of the bullet). Some look like modern rifle bullets with a long point and two thick grooves. What are the advantages or disadvantages of each design. Also my favorite .45 auto bullet is a 200 gr semiwadcutter with a long nose and one large lube groove. Many cast bullet manufacturers sell this bullet design. I cant seem to find the correct mold for it. Any ideas? Thanks, Steve
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by steve45
    Thanks Charliemeyer007, Im looking at 30 cal rifle bullet molds. I would like to get a bullet thats accurate at velocities between 1500 to 1800 fps and 150 gr to 180 gr. Some of the molds pour bullets that have many thin lube grooves (the length of the bullet). Some look like modern rifle bullets with a long point and two thick grooves. What are the advantages or disadvantages of each design. Also my favorite .45 auto bullet is a 200 gr semiwadcutter with a long nose and one large lube groove. Many cast bullet manufacturers sell this bullet design. I cant seem to find the correct mold for it. Any ideas? Thanks, Steve


    Steve; Lee has a bevel based 200 SWC that has the long H&G 68 type nose, it is very accurate, with one lube groove, I shoot thousands of them in NRA bulleys competition. The Lyman 452460 is another proven target design and one of my favorite 45 bullets. For rifles, the Lyman 311141 is an old time favorite and probably the go-to bullet for 30 cal shooting. I have driven it up to 2100 FPS cast from wheel weights without leading.

    Checking YOUR bore diameter is paramount for accuracy and reduced leading. You are seeking a sized bullet that is aprox. .001 over groove diameter. The hardest cast bullet will lead badly if undersized for the bore.
  • steve45steve45 Member Posts: 2,940 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Bpost, Thanks for the tips on the molds. It sounds like I'll be checking the bore diameter on some of my rifles. Thanks again.
  • WinMikeWinMike Member Posts: 144 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've cast handgun bullets in various calibers, but only .30 rifle bullets. I used Lee 2-cavity C309-170-F 30, and loaded them in both 30-06 & 30-30. Honestly, I'm a little unimpressed; velocities must be kept low to prevent leading. Loads containing SR4759 worked best in my '06, and I could never find another use for 4759 on my bench. 3031 worked well in the 30-30.

    I use a Lee pot, and have had good luck with the bottom-pour. I flux often.

    All the advice by other posters is good stuff; I've used NEI, Lyman, RCBS and Lee dies; honestly, I don't know why...unless because of lead pollution issues...anyone would shoot anything other than cast bullets in revolvers.

    I cast/shoot lots of Lee's .38 wadcutter (no sizing needed), and also an NEI .45 (.452-260) 260 gr. pure wadcutter, which looks like a small oil drum and when shot in a S&W Mdl 25, made one big hole in a good-sized deer.

    But, most of mine are Keith-type semi-wadcutters. My favorite 38-.357 bullet is a NEI SWC-GC that's marked 158gr. but comes out weighing 162 gr. in my mix. Sized, lubed with Hornady GC in a .357 Mag. with a brisk load of W296/H110, I get 1250+ fps in a 4" revolver and 1850 fps in a low-wall rifle. Alternatively, I'll shoot the same bullet in .38 Spl with a mild load of Green Dot or W231 (sized, lubed but no gas check) in 4 different revolvers; it's spooky-accurate in all.

    I still have a few pounds of wheel-weights that I collected some years ago (free for the asking...ahh, the good old days!), but see I'll probably have to buy some more one of these days. In our state, they're not using lead in wheel-weights, so there goes that source. I might be surprised when I find out what quality lead will do!

    Making your own bullets is a satisfaction thing....considering all the quality commercial lead bullets now available, I'm not sure one saves much money, but I also cast some fishing weights, so I keep telling myself how thrifty I must be.....[8D]
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