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New to reloading questions
ramdino
Member Posts: 38 ✭✭
I am brand new to reloading. Just started my bench and got a dumb question. I am looking through my Lyman book at the powder amounts. I am going to be loading 223. The larger the grain bullet the longer correct? The longer the bullet , the more contact with the case correct? If those are correct i would assume that the heavier the bullet and the more contact with the case the more powder would be required to propel it. But when I look at 55 grain using Varget it uses 25 grain ( min load ) and the 69 gain uses 23.4 grains. Why less for a heavier bullet that contacts the casing more?
Another question is does it matter as far as powder loading what brand bullet you use or do you go solely by then weight of the bullet. I understand that different bullets perform different but my main concern is blowing something up in the rifle.
Another question is does it matter as far as powder loading what brand bullet you use or do you go solely by then weight of the bullet. I understand that different bullets perform different but my main concern is blowing something up in the rifle.
Comments
I know I still need a tumbler and cleaning medium to prepare the cases. The dies are carbide and it says they require no lubrication; Does this mean I don't have to lube the cases?
A friend suggested a tray to hold the shells; Can I use the trays the shells come with new from the factory? I've been saving my spent shells for awhile now.
Any other suggestions?[?]
For your other question. I like to use the bullet manufacturers information first, then verify it with another book. The more information you can get, the better off you will be. Start from min and work your way up.
Does case brand matter? Can I use winchester or remington for 223?
While I have worked up loads that aren't in books, for a .223 it isn't necessary. For a .41 Swiss or 8X60R Kropatschek there is a dearth of data so it starts to become needed; however for the novice reloader with a common round with thousands of published loads, DO NOT do this!
After you've been reloading for 10 or 20 years, and you find yourself with a real oddball cartridge, have a chronograph and know pressure signs inside and out, feel free to VERY carefully try it. But your initial question shows you are just getting into it and don't know the principles of it yet.
To expand on what has been said- there are different powders with different burn rates. Some are very fast. Some are very slow. Faster powders increase in pressure quickly the more you add or the heavier the bullet. Slower powders are usually more forgiving. For instance, whether using a 40 gr bullet or 90 gr bullet, you probably couldn't cram enough IMR 4350 into a .223 to cause any harm. It's a slow powder, and not ideal in the cartridge. On the other hand, using IMR 4198, a moderately fast powder, you could easily run in to trouble by using a heavy bullet over the same powder load that is safe with a light bullet.
Stick to published loads and all will be well. Welcome to the hobby!
DO NOT try to use logic on how much powder to use in a load compared to bullet weight . You will find that the burning of smokeless powder is different then what you would expect. Smokeless powder is PROGRESSIVE this means the harder it is to push a bullet down a barrel from a dead stand still to say 2700 feet per second the more pressure will be produced by the same amount of powder. Say with a 30/06 if you used a 110 grain bullet with max load of powder and then loaded a 220 grain bullet with same powder charge of powder you would more then likely destroy the rifle and injure yourself[xx(][:(][V]. If you can't find a load in a reloading Manual then DO NOT try to make up a load using what you THINK is sound logic.
+++1 Keep reading and follow the reloading manual to the letter. Trying to use logic will only get you hurt.Reloding can be fun and rewarding. Also look at The reloading room by Rocky Raab.He can answer any questions you have.
3 sources and usually one source -mid range-
is a max load according to another source.
Always start low and look for pressure signs.
Never assume anything!
Good shooting
For example, I have two rifles in .223: one with a 1-9" twist, the other 1-12". I can fire (accurately) 69 gr. bullets in the faster twist, but not the other. The slower twist shoots lighter (45 gr.) bullets all day long into one tiny hole (and more specifically, changes sage rats into red mist).
Nosler bullets shoot more accurately in one rifle, Sierra in the other....that's the fun part, figuring it all out.
And there are no dumb questions!
Pressure is your best friend,
it can push the bullet out to where you want it to go!
Pressure is your worst enemy,
it can push your face and other body parts in all directions!
(Sometimes, no one is able to put Humpty Dumpty back together again...)
Enough of a good thing is ... usually a good thing!
Too much of a good thing is ... always a bad thing!!!
((The folks above have generously shared their knowledge and experience with you ... please heed and appreciate.))
Saftey is great advice. Published loads only for me.