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.38 spec & .38 spec.+P recipes?
bambambam
Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
I just started loading metallic cartriges this week.I'm starting with .38 spec and +P's. I have Red Dot from shotgun and bought Unique, Bullseye, and HS-6 powder. I have Speer #4217 158gr JSP bullets. I also have Rem.1 1/2 and Win. small primers. I need some load data for these componets. Seems like all the manufactor websites have data for componets I don't have. Any and all help please.
Comments
A bit of advice if your just getting started, Keep a good record of everything, it will become useful someday.
A light load of fast burning powder and a jacketed bullet are not a good combination. There is much more friction between a copper jacket and the steel barrel than there is with a traditional greasy lead bullet. That can lead to bullets stuck in the barrel. But you know that.
I suggest you invest in some loading manuals, Lyman is good.
Speer does not even show .38 Special with heavy jacketed bullets in the 12th edition that I have, which might tell you something right there.
An exact "recipe" for components you happen to have would just be a matter of luck. You have to learn what you can adapt and what you cannot. For example, I would not treat a 158 grain Speer jacketed bullet any different from a 158 grain Hornady jacketed bullet. I would not treat a 158 grain Missouri Cast Bullet any different from a 158 grain Laser Cast. But I would NOT treat a jacketed bullet the same as a lead bullet.
There is a lot of discussion of "starting loads" and "working up" with "pressure signs." But there aren't many pressure signs in .38 Special, any normal load for it is really pretty mild.
Edit to remove comments "contributing to the delinquency of handloaders." We are more cautious now than in the past.
158 Hornady XTP Hodgdon HS-6 6.6 926
Remarks: COL: 1.455"; CUP: 18,700
start load for HS-6 is 5.6 BUTT max is 62.grs. [:0][B)]
Get it right [;)]
Which primer would I use. I made 10 loads yesterday and tested them today. I ended up with 3 bullets in the barrel. I asked around about my 3.3gr Red Dot/WSP primer load and my friends said powder bad or primer not igniting powder right. I saw a bullet sticking out of the end of my barrel after the 4th shot and it scared the out of me.
What are you shooting these loads out of [?]
Butt out[xx(]
start load for HS-6 is 5.6 BUTT max is 62.grs. [:0][B)]
Get it right [;)]
good one[:D][xx(]
quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
If you loaded 10 shells and stuck 3 in the barrel I suggest you Stop before you ruin the pistol Bulge the barrel or hurt yourself. Reloading is an ATTENTION to DETAIL job. Buy a reloading manual and read it then read it again then find someone that reloads and go visit them then go home and read the manual again. Then and only then use a load that is in the manual. Reloading is NOT like cooking where you might want to add a little of this or a little of that to the recipe. Currently you are doing something Wrong.
Other load is same bullet with Unique 4.5gr and the WSP primer. Think those are safe?
quote:Originally posted by dcs shooters
quote:Originally posted by bambambam
Which primer would I use. I made 10 loads yesterday and tested them today. I ended up with 3 bullets in the barrel. I asked around about my 3.3gr Red Dot/WSP primer load and my friends said powder bad or primer not igniting powder right. I saw a bullet sticking out of the end of my barrel after the 4th shot and it scared the out of me.
What are you shooting these loads out of [?]
Your 4.5 Unique ought to be fine.
If you loaded 10 shells and stuck 3 in the barrel I suggest you Stop before you ruin the pistol Bulge the barrel or hurt yourself. Reloading is an ATTENTION to DETAIL job. Buy a reloading manual and read it then read it again then find someone that reloads and go visit them then go home and read the manual again. Then and only then use a load that is in the manual. Reloading is NOT like cooking where you might want to add a little of this or a little of that to the recipe. Currently you are doing something Wrong.
There are many knowledgeable people on this site. BUT the above is the only answer you should heed. I am especially worried about your term "test runs". Reloading is not something you learn from test runs. Buy 3 reloading books and read them. You do realize a misprint or a decimal point in the wrong place can turn your test run into a finger and eye remover. After you get the basics down pat from published reloading books, then ask here for load recommendations.
I myself have loaded 1000s of .38 but even I am hesitant to give advice to the OP as I don't feel the OP has mastered the basic reloading technique to do it safely, with or without data.
Just my $.02
Which primer would I use. I made 10 loads yesterday and tested them today. I ended up with 3 bullets in the barrel. I asked around about my 3.3gr Red Dot/WSP primer load and my friends said powder bad or primer not igniting powder right. I saw a bullet sticking out of the end of my barrel after the 4th shot and it scared the out of me.
DO you have a reloading book?
If not get the new Lyman and read it cover to cover.
quote:Originally posted by bambambam
Which primer would I use. I made 10 loads yesterday and tested them today. I ended up with 3 bullets in the barrel. I asked around about my 3.3gr Red Dot/WSP primer load and my friends said powder bad or primer not igniting powder right. I saw a bullet sticking out of the end of my barrel after the 4th shot and it scared the out of me.
DO you have a reloading book?
If not get the new Lyman and read it cover to cover.
I agree ...I think the Lyman book is the best one. Goes for around 30 bucks new....might want to check Amazon or right here on GB
Also alliante website gives .38 spec load of Unique to be 4.7gr and 5.2gr for .38+P.
ALL 158gr bullet loads
Your load of 3.3gr. Of red dot not a good powder for .38 sp. should have made it out of the barrel with a good crimp to hold pressure, maybe not? When you test new loads, load one, shoot, check firearm load one shoot check ect. Your lucky you didn't blow your gun and yourself up. Go slow and be safe.
I agree with all of those who recommend you get a good reloading manual and read it....and re-read it. Alas, your posts show me how the information available on the internet can be appear to simplify an important schedule of steps: screw up once, and it's easy to cause injury to yourself and others, as well as damage to property.
As you can see by my post numbers, I'm new to this site. However, I'm not new to reloading, and have loaded several thousands of rounds in various calibers. Honestly, though, I started cringing as I read your successive posts. Yeow!
Please take my chiding in the spirit given....I mean well, and want you to be safe!
Another question.. someone mentioned crimping. I've heard alot of discussion on to crimp or not. What is the benifit of the crimp for this application?
Read the two stickys at the top of the page Authored by Perry Shooter.
GH1[:)]
Per hundreds of thousands of posts, most shooters prefer cast bullets vs. plated, not only because of accuracy, but because of lower powder requirements.
However, if you're shooting in an indoor facility, you may be required (and justifiably so) to use plated or jacketed bullets.
Wadcutters are the epitome of accuracy, particularly in the .38 Spl. Search this site for two good threads regarding same.
Per hundreds of thousands of posts, most shooters prefer cast bullets vs. plated, not only because of accuracy, but because of lower powder requirements.
However, if you're shooting in an indoor facility, you may be required (and justifiably so) to use plated or jacketed bullets.
Your results should be similar.
If you are stuck on the internet, go to Hornady's site and read everything about reloading on there. You have to understand ballistics to produce a good, safe load.