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Bullet Sizing
victorj19
Member Posts: 3,642 ✭✭✭
I recently bought a used Lee mould (.309, with gas check, 150gr) last week and haven't tried it yet. I plan on casting 1,000 or more while I can afford to and then storing them for future use. I'll use wheel weight lead with some lino tossed in.
Must the bullets be sized? I've been considering one of the Lee sizers that will also install the gas checks since bullet speed will be much higher than what I'm used to in a handgun. I don't plan on loading any reduced loads but could set aside a couple of hundred without gas checks.
Must the bullets be sized? I've been considering one of the Lee sizers that will also install the gas checks since bullet speed will be much higher than what I'm used to in a handgun. I don't plan on loading any reduced loads but could set aside a couple of hundred without gas checks.
Comments
Allow me to clarify.
Cast lead bullets should be sized to about 1/1000" to 3/1000" over bore diameter. IF the bullets will seat after a light case flaring and IF they chamber 'as cast' then no, you won't need to size them.
However, as you point out, the sizer also installs the gas check. If everything seats and chambers ok without binding, I'd get a .311 sizer to just crimp on the check but not reduce bullet diameter.
The Lee kits are fine, and for reduced loads I personally like the Lee Liquid Alox, even if it isn't pretty, I find it works pretty well. Others hate it; as with everything, everyone has an opinion. Your other option for lubricating the bullet is a lube-sizer or dip or pan lubing. All are fine, but again, getting that gas check on is the issue.
You can also, in theory, painstakingly superglue each check on and not crimp it, however that gets old quickly.
Now if you can't chamber the bullet as sized, you must size it down. You should slug your bore and find out its diameters before proceeding if you possibly can.
Gas checks are a must for most rifle applications, though if you want to stay under 1000 fps or so with a really light load, you can get by without them.
Jonk has a great answer and I might add, the import thing is to SLUG your bore to determine its size. Without that information you are simply guessing. You may cast a thousand bullets finding them very hard as can be cast, but still leading badly.
An under-size bullet will lead no matter how hard it is. A cast bullet made out of reclaimed wheel weights that properly fits your bore can be driven up to 2,000 FPS with out leading using good lube and gas checks, I do it all the time.
Once you know your bore size that information will determine the need for sizing, and more important WHAT size your barrel needs. You will also need to cast a few test bullets to see what size they actually drop out of the mold; for your sake I hope they are on the large side.
If you can't slug the bore or are just looking to plink at cans, stick to cast bullet loads under 1,300 FPS using Red Dot or Unique.
Would measuring an unfired jacketed bullet I get really good accuracy have any benefits?
The 2000 fps will be fine. I've used Alox for pistol bullets and haven't had a problem.
Just had an ephiphany that I could just cast a whole chit load more and decide latter whether to add gas checks or use them for reduced loads.
Thanks again
Thanks. I'll get a little time this weeked and cast a few. I'll measure them, seat a couple in cases and check to see if they chamber and then lube a couple and use them to slug the barrel (30/06 early 60s Rem 700) and go from there regarding the sizer. Lee dies are supposed to cast bullets to the stated size. However, differing alloys have to affect the diameter.
Would measuring an unfired jacketed bullet I get really good accuracy have any benefits?
The 2000 fps will be fine. I've used Alox for pistol bullets and haven't had a problem.
Just had an ephiphany that I could just cast a whole chit load more and decide latter whether to add gas checks or use them for reduced loads.
Thanks again
You want to use dead-SOFT lead to slug the bore. A fishing sinker or large split shot works well, pound it through the bore with a oak or brass dowel rod.
A jacketed bullet tells you nothing about your bore since they are not going to cause leading to begin with.
Use the gas check at all times. The gas check prevents bullet base deformation and helps keep the bullet aligned with the bore.
You will be very unhappy if you fire even a few bullets that are undersize for the bore, it will look like somebody filled in your grooves with lead!
One further thought- if you've fired jacketed bullets you'll want to thoroughly de-copper your bore before proceeding. I usually don't get lead fouling in a copper fouled bore if plinking around 1300 fps but if you push on to 2000 or even higher in some cases, you will get leading as the copper fouling will cause it.
My 1,200 fps plinker loads are "fun accurate" and don't lead very much. The gas-checked versions are MUCH more accurate and leave no leading whatever. Except for the cost of the gas checks, I have come to the conclusion that there is no drawback to sizing and checking them all, even for plinker loads.
Lee push-through sizer kits are elegantly simple, cheap, and don't require a sizer/luber machine. They even come with a bottle of LLA. I bought one of Lee's smallest presses just to use with my sizers. I screwed it to a short length of 2x4, and simply C-clamp it to the corner of my bench when I size - or to pull bullets. Perfect.