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Rilfle Crimp Dies

bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
I'm going to have some time to kill and was wanting to crimp some of my loads that are made up.

I bought a Lee Factory Crimp Die (90821) for my 7mm Rem Mag. I had a question about this die. I notice a ring and when screwed down enough you get a castle look to the top of the neck. The directions don't say anything about the marks and how much to crimp without hurting the brass. It does say that when you lower the ram and the cutout's on the collet touch you have reached max crimp.

How deep should I crimp?

Also are there other crimp dies that I can buy? I was looking for a crimp that didn't damage the neck so much.

Comments

  • ButtButt Member Posts: 208 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Reset the die like all other dies. Turn it so it touch shell holder plus half turn.
    Open collet put in a round then turn collet until you feel it touch your case, then
    ? or ? turn to adjust crimp. The collet will be down inside the die not like pic.
    When the collet is closed that is max and is more crimp than is needed.
  • Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    and
    All the brass cases must be trimmed to same length,
    and after crimping and especially before going hunting or too the range, carefully and gently make sure the shells chamber easily, be careful when testing for chambering, because if crimped too much or some of the brass is longer you will get a bulge in the brass and a stuck case.
  • MIKE WISKEYMIKE WISKEY Member Posts: 10,037 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    "because if crimped too much or some of the brass is longer you will get a bulge in the brass and a stuck case."............thats the beauty of the lee crimp die, this can't happen. it doesn't depend on case lenght.
  • AmbroseAmbrose Member Posts: 3,209 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I agree with Mike Whiskey on the Lee die--it works differently than the standard crimp shoulder in seater dies. I do, however, question the need or the desirability of crimping a cartridge like the 7mm Remington Magnum. It just adds another variable to the accuracy mix. Unless chambered in something like a BAR, a crimp isn't needed and, even then, is probably unnessary. I seldom crimp, except for tubular magazines and revolvers. Why don't you run an experiment--crimp some and not others and see if there's a difference?
  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,572 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am just wondering why you want to crimp 7mm R. Mags? My 458 yea a little on hunting loads. Tube magazines for sure.
  • Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the correction about not relying on the case length for crimping when using the lee factory lee crimp die.
    I tested a 223 lee factory crimp die about year ago testing accuracy of crimp vs non crimp. In my 223 my best accuracy was without a crimp at the high velocity loads, but at very low velocity reduced loads (1600fps) for squirrels, varmits, pests, I got best and very good accuracy by using a bullet with a crimping cannlure and using a standard bullet seating die adjusting for crimp in the cannulure.

    Don't know why he wanted to crimp a 7mm mag?
    If it's just to hold the bullet into the case tighter, why not just use a bullet with a crimp cannulure and a standard bullet seating die set for crimp. Maybe when it recoils, it's shaking the bullets loose from the spare shells in his pocket?
  • Okie743Okie743 Member Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I seen some articles about lee crimp dies on you tube also.


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NOWqX0BX6o

    some of the you tube stuff you need to take with a grain of salt, though!
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I will also caution against crimping enough to deform the bullet.
  • bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have the Lee Deluxe Dies. The seat die will not crimp the case. I had to buy the crimp factory crimp die.

    I just guessed it would help me achieve a better burn and get a higher velocity. I don't get the speed that all the different books publish and just thought I'd try this to see.
  • AmbroseAmbrose Member Posts: 3,209 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I too, find that the ammo makers and the reloading books do seem to be a bit optimistic with the data for the 7. I joke that the biggest difference between the 7 mag. and the .270 is that the 7 has 2 more inches of barrel and weighs a pound more! However, I do own five rifles chambered for the 7 Rem. Mag. They seem to do better with the heavier bullets (160 & 175) and the slower powders. A load that shoots well in all of my rifles is the 175 gr. Hornady spire with Reloader 25 powder and Federal 215 primer.
  • 76k2076k20 Member Posts: 643 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bambambam
    I'm going to have some time to kill and was wanting to crimp some of my loads that are made up.

    I bought a Lee Factory Crimp Die (90821) for my 7mm Rem Mag. I had a question about this die. I notice a ring and when screwed down enough you get a castle look to the top of the neck. The directions don't say anything about the marks and how much to crimp without hurting the brass. It does say that when you lower the ram and the cutout's on the collet touch you have reached max crimp.

    How deep should I crimp?

    Also are there other crimp dies that I can buy? I was looking for a crimp that didn't damage the neck so much.


    bambambam,

    From my experience with Lee Factory Crimp dies, I believe what you are describing is normal. This die is supposed to crimp like factory rounds, and if you look at current production ammo the rounds have marks similar to what you describe. When using the Lee dies, I start with a little crimp and move heavier until I get a firm crimp, and it is rare that I use max crimp (collet completely closed).
  • 76k2076k20 Member Posts: 643 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
    I am just wondering why you want to crimp 7mm R. Mags? My 458 yea a little on hunting loads. Tube magazines for sure.

    The 7mm Rem Mag produces more than enough recoil to unseat a bullet in the magazine if crimping or neck tension is not sufficient.
  • bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Ambrose
    I too, find that the ammo makers and the reloading books do seem to be a bit optimistic with the data for the 7. I joke that the biggest difference between the 7 mag. and the .270 is that the 7 has 2 more inches of barrel and weighs a pound more! However, I do own five rifles chambered for the 7 Rem. Mag. They seem to do better with the heavier bullets (160 & 175) and the slower powders. A load that shoots well in all of my rifles is the 175 gr. Hornady spire with Reloader 25 powder and Federal 215 primer.


    Thanks Ambrose,
    It's alway good to hear what other people have good luck with. I'm still experimenting with load developement on this gun. I started a few months ago and the weather in IL and my time has not been allowing me shooting time.

    I punch paper, coyote,& deer hunt with this gun so far. I'm playing with the 130gr-160gr ballpark. I have H1000, H4831SC,& H4350 powder. Speer 130, 140 Game King bullets and Hornady 139SST,154SST,& 162A-MAX bullets. WLR primers and Fed215 primers.

    I have loaded 5 of each powder(if applicable for powder/bullet weight compatable, ex. some 162gr bullets aren't going to have a load in the H4350 powder) with each bullet, with each primer.

    I don't really mind which of the combinations end up being the most accurate round as the 130,140,154,162 will all do what I want.

    I have a long way to go before I find that magic round for my gun.[^]

    Okie,
    Thanks for the link. I watched it and about a hand full of the related videos. I have always welcomed as may points of view about a subject. I take in as much info from others as I can get and take whatever tips I find relevant and apply them. It has really been a blessing having so many reloaders on GB to learn from.

    76K20,

    I have always noticed that the factory ammo I used to buy didn't have the ring or castle mark(to much crimp). I think most of the ammo I bought had a cannalure with roll crimp. Good to know I'm not the only to notice something.
  • RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just to clarify. (I'm sure most folks understand this but just in case.....)
    True, the Lee die doesn't depend on case length for the crimp, but,
    Crimp or no, brass that is allowed to get too long can cause real problems. Once the brass starts getting crammed into the taper of the throat, pressures can skyrocket.
    So, yes, you don't have to worry about all cases being the same length to obtain a uniform crimp with the Lee die, but you for sure need to keep OAL within specs to avoid the possibility of high pressures.[:D]
  • 243winxb243winxb Member Posts: 264 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:How deep should I crimp?
    Not this deep. LeeFCD.jpg
    [url] https://saami.org [/url]
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