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OAL guage and reloads

NavybatNavybat Member Posts: 6,849 ✭✭✭
So my factory rifle ammo for .280 and .30-06 was the Hornady Superformance. Accurate, expensive, deadly. About $30 for a box of 20.

I decided to start reloading, so I matched cases, and bought the same bullets (Hornady SST, 180 grain in .308, 139 grain in .280/7mm).

I tested my reloads (.280: 53 grains of IMR 4350; .30-06: 54 grains of IMR 4350) against the Superformance factory loads. The .280 reloads were slightly tighter grouping than the factory, but both loads shot to point of aim at 50 and 100 yards, so they are interchangeable in the field. I decided no adjustments are necessary. I've kept the extra box of 20 Superformance in case I need them later. FPS of factory is about 3050, my reloads are 2820.

But on the .30-06, the reloads were a lot tighter, and shot to point of aim at 50 and 100, but the factory were less tight and showed a difference between 50 and 100 yards.

I decided to take the rest of my .30-06 factory Superformance (30 rounds) and pull them, and then reload to my specs. I started with 10 to test.

Here's where the OAL guage comes in. I bought one from Cabela's, and tried it out on my Savage 111 in .30-06. It showed I needed to go a little longer on OAL (my reloads were identical to factory.) I did so with the pulled factory loads. Then I tested them.

My "new" pulled reloads were 3/4" groups at 100 yards, shot to point of aim at 50 and 100. They were slightly better than my previous reloads as far as group size, but shot to the same point. FPS of my reloads is 2700, factory Superformance was 2900.

I think the OAL guage made the difference. I eliminated a little distance between the point of the bullet and the rifling and got a 1/4" tighter group. (I also set the factory crimp die SLIGHTLY tighter). I've reset my dies and am ready to reload another 50 rounds.

I guess the system worked...and all that I've read actually is true. I don't think I need any work on my .280...but when I get a modified case I'll test it out, too.

Comments

  • bambambambambambam Member Posts: 4,814 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Navybat
    So my factory rifle ammo for .280 and .30-06 was the Hornady Superformance. Accurate, expensive, deadly. About $30 for a box of 20.

    I decided to start reloading, so I matched cases, and bought the same bullets (Hornady SST, 180 grain in .308, 139 grain in .280/7mm).

    I tested my reloads (.280: 53 grains of IMR 4350; .30-06: 54 grains of IMR 4350) against the Superformance factory loads. The .280 reloads were slightly tighter grouping than the factory, but both loads shot to point of aim at 50 and 100 yards, so they are interchangeable in the field. I decided no adjustments are necessary. I've kept the extra box of 20 Superformance in case I need them later. FPS of factory is about 3050, my reloads are 2820.

    But on the .30-06, the reloads were a lot tighter, and shot to point of aim at 50 and 100, but the factory were less tight and showed a difference between 50 and 100 yards.

    I decided to take the rest of my .30-06 factory Superformance (30 rounds) and pull them, and then reload to my specs. I started with 10 to test.

    Here's where the OAL guage comes in. I bought one from Cabela's, and tried it out on my Savage 111 in .30-06. It showed I needed to go a little longer on OAL (my reloads were identical to factory.) I did so with the pulled factory loads. Then I tested them.

    My "new" pulled reloads were 3/4" groups at 100 yards, shot to point of aim at 50 and 100. They were slightly better than my previous reloads as far as group size, but shot to the same point. FPS of my reloads is 2700, factory Superformance was 2900.

    I think the OAL guage made the difference. I eliminated a little distance between the point of the bullet and the rifling and got a 1/4" tighter group. (I also set the factory crimp die SLIGHTLY tighter). I've reset my dies and am ready to reload another 50 rounds.

    I guess the system worked...and all that I've read actually is true. I don't think I need any work on my .280...but when I get a modified case I'll test it out, too.


    Just out of curiousity. How far off the lands were you with the loads you pulled and reloaded that you say shot better?
  • NavybatNavybat Member Posts: 6,849 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    .003"...that's what I lengthened the OAL by. Looks like I was about .005 or .006 short. I left about 2-3 thousandths distance.

    Practically, the bullet's cannelure WAS crimped to the cartridge at the far edge (closest to the bullet's tip). That's where the factory ammo was crimped. I ended up crimping the new loads closer to the trailing edge of the cannelure. But the crimp is still in the cannelure.
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    Accepting that best accuracy is usually achieved either contacting or just shy of the lands, I usually will ignore published OALs and just start seating the bullet one turn of the seating stem at a time until it chambers with no resistance. To make sure to account for variations in lots I then turn the seating stem 1/4 of a turn past that and make a dummy pilot cartridge for that gun/bullet.

    I'm curious how your gauge works. Might I assume it measures distance to rifling which you can then use to measure OAL to the ogive?
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