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Reloading question
oscar meyer
Member Posts: 79 ✭✭
what can i do to make my loads more accurate? have been thinking about turning the necks,using a neck bushing die,micrometer seating die an not crimping the case. am i on the right track or just wasting money
Comments
GH1[:)]
Can you only crimp bullets with a cannelure?? I'm thinking about getting the lee factory crimp dye. But i'm wondering if this will solve my problem.
Thanks for any advice.
I have a Sierra 3rd and 10th, Hornady 7th, Speer 10th, and Lyman 46th.
Are there any I don't have that I should get?
Also about how many 45 rounds would be in 1 pound of powder.
Also about how many 7 Mag rounds would be in a pound of powder.
Thanks David
I was full length resizing and decapping some .223 once fired brass.
I had previously cleaned it in stainless steel media.
I broke a decapping pin and thought maybe i had a crimped in primer? So i took a look at the case and this was not the case. so i replaced the pin and continued. About a dozen cases later same thing happens. So i look in the case and i see 2-3 stainless pins wedged in the bottom of the case. Heres the question: 1. What are the ramifications of the pins remaining in the case(I.E. missed when i decapped the case)2.Has anybody else had this issue? If so what is the remedy for correcting this...short of the obvious answer which is visually inspect every case or stop using S.S. media. Thanks for you help.
Second reply, after reading other responses. There seems to be a serious time and steps price to pay for using SSM. What with tumbling, washing, using magnets, retumbling, etc. They may have to vibrate a few minutes longer using walnut, but that is the extent of the procedure. Vibrate for the required time, sift out the cases, then reload. Easy Peazy. The cases are perfectly shiny and clean and you can leave out all those other steps. If by chance a grain of walnut shell somehow stays in the case, no big deal as it will not break a steel decapping pin. [:D]
I see no reason to delete this topic as having it posted in both forums will get a cross section of responses. It's a good topic to cover.
quote:I use crushed walnut shell media. It has never caused breakage of any steel part. Maybe a solution.
On the surface this appears to be a simple, yet disarming remark. In reality though, the SSM is by far superior to any of the other processes including walnut or corn cob. There is no comparison as to the speed and cleanliness achieved when using SSM. None.
Solving the problem is simple though. Just look inside every case prior to performing any of the later tasks.
Best.
Stay safe!
Pass each case over the speakers' magnet, case mouth down, and any errant media will jump onto the magnet and out of your cases.
You still have to look at each case (you should, anyway!), but this will remove any loose media, and hang on to it for you.
I thought stainless wasnt magnetic?
depends on grade.
I visually inspect all cases after cleaning but before anything else for defects of any kind including media stuck in them.
With how well the SS system cleans it is much easier to spot defects once the whole case is cleaned inside and out.
http://www.opticsplanet.com/rcbs-rotary-case-media-separator-87076.html?gclid=CMjsrILHsbcCFcad4AodiWoAbg&ef_id=UaDWdAAABZkOjwT-:20130525151916:s
Some "stainless steels" have enough ferrous content for magnets to work on them, some don't. Again, making assumptions is not safe when explosions can result.