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making cannelures

fullcaseloadfullcaseload Member Posts: 224 ✭✭
edited June 2011 in Perry Shooter Competition Shooting and Reloading Forum
Anyone here making cannelures? If you are would you please talk a little about the tool. Like; who makes it, hows it working for you, how much did it cost you, using tips, that kinda stuff. I got some bullets that are backing out under recoil, any tighter crimp starts putting a bulge at the case mouth. I'm expanding to the bare minimum, anything less and I'd be "shaving" the bullet. Loading down is not the answer either, it's a high pressure cartridge when loaded normally. Anyway, if you're making cannelures please reply.
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    Hawk CarseHawk Carse Member Posts: 4,367 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Corbin and CH-4D make canneluring tools. Lay the bullet on the rollers and turn the crank to drive the cannelure wheel.

    What caliber, bullet, and brass are you using?
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    fullcaseloadfullcaseload Member Posts: 224 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    327 Fed.Mag., Rainier 100 gr.(.312 inches) JHP, Federal and Speer brass(nickle plated). Thanks for the makers names, I'll look them up.
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    gunnut505gunnut505 Member Posts: 10,290 ✭
    edited November -1
    I've been using a pipe cutting tool; just don't use one with a wobbly blade! I took a file to the wheel/blade, and did some coining all around it. Works great and didn't cost anything.
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    fullcaseloadfullcaseload Member Posts: 224 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    gunnut505, couple of questions. Is it the smaller size tubing cutter or a fuller size pipe cutter? How do hold the bullet while turning the cutter? Okay, 3 questions, and how do you get the repeated results of depth of cannelure and distance from bullet base? I'm thinking one might suffer through a few bullets but if one had over a thousand to do it would end up taking a lot of time and probably too many variances. Thanks
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    RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    For several years I used the Corbin tool to put cannelures in .400 jacketed bullets that I used in my 38-40. Nice tool. Easy to control the depth and uniformity of "cut". I appreciate the simplicity of the pipe cutter approach but don't see how it could consistently approach the results the corbin gives.
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    MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 13,779 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just my opinion but the pipe cutter is a BAD idea. While it may prevent bullet pull, it will also cause the jacket to break at that point. Having a portion of the front jacket break during expansion will result in poor bullet performance whil having it break off in flight will make for fliers.
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    fullcaseloadfullcaseload Member Posts: 224 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    update- I bought a CH cannelure making tool off of ebay and have cannelured, loaded and shot approximately 300 rounds to date. Canneluring did solve my problem of the bullet creeping out of the case. When I received the tool I set it up as to location and depth for overall case length and roll crimp. Setting the first dozen bullets side by side on a shelf of my reloading bench showed visible variations in the width of the cannelure plus the wheel crank had some spots that would grab/bind. Pulled it apart, cleaned it, smoothed the galling with fine emery cloth, lubed, and reassembled it. Operated much smoother but the well used tool still has sloppy tolerances. Seller did not misrepresent as this is not readily apparent unless you use it. Called "Dave" at CH Tool and found for a little under $20.00 more I could of had a brand new one (includes shipping). Should have checked there first, oh well, usually my lessons cost me more than that. As long as I operate the tool very deliberately I can keep the results "looking" the same which has appeared to be good enough for consistent end results. As it approximately triples the time per bullet I'm going to buy a new tool if I decide to keep using bullets bought without a cannelure. I have a correction to make in a previous post in this thread. I said the bullet were JHPs, they are actually plated instead of jacketed. I have been told by others that they have had the plating crack and/or peel when canneluring, which I totally understand. So far I have not encountered that problem. Maybe it's due to the shallowness of my cannelure or maybe the plating job on my batch of bullets,IDK. OK, I'm done, sorry this was so long.
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