In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

3 vs. 4 blade

elkoholicelkoholic Member Posts: 5,130
What are a advantages and disadvantages to shooting a 4 blade broadhead?

I'm torn between the Wac'em Triton (3 blade) and the Wac'em Exit (4 blade).

Comments

  • shoff14shoff14 Member Posts: 11,994 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    In theory, more blades should produce more blood. I don't necessarily think that is the case. I try to find something that will fly like field points and am not too concerned about the number of blades. I use NAP crossfires because they fly very well.
  • Fly DoctorFly Doctor Member Posts: 5,053
    edited November -1
    Depends upon the game species as well. Some guys swear that going
    with two blades is the only way to go with elk, as more psi is then
    placed on the two cutting edges (as compared to distributing it
    between three or four blades) for deeper penetration through thicker
    hide and bone. Having lost my first and only bull at 17 yards with
    a four-blade, single lung shot that should've blown through him like
    butter, I tend to agree. I believe that shot hit a rib dead-on and
    simply didn't have the cutting force to get the needed penetration,
    leaving half of the arrow hanging out. I won't go anything greater
    than three blades on any game again.
  • bang250bang250 Member Posts: 8,021
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Fly Doctor
    Depends upon the game species as well. Some guys swear that going
    with two blades is the only way to go with elk, as more psi is then
    placed on the two cutting edges (as compared to distributing it
    between three or four blades) for deeper penetration through thicker
    hide and bone. Having lost my first and only bull at 17 yards with
    a four-blade, single lung shot that should've blown through him like
    butter, I tend to agree. I believe that shot hit a rib dead-on and
    simply didn't have the cutting force to get the needed penetration,
    leaving half of the arrow hanging out. I won't go anything greater
    than three blades on any game again.


    I see what your sayin and it makes sense to me, However I shot a 2 blade Rage a couple years ago and could not get a complete pass threw on Whitetail. I switched to Slick tricks which are a 4 blade and have blown completely threw every deer I've shot since. Go figure, right?
  • joshmb1982joshmb1982 Member Posts: 8,929
    edited November -1
    wouldnt the angle of the blades also effect how well the blades sliced through? a longer shallower angle blade with cut more easily then a shorter steeper one no?
  • dcso3009dcso3009 Member Posts: 2,350 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by joshmb1982
    wouldnt the angle of the blades also effect how well the blades sliced through? a longer shallower angle blade with cut more easily then a shorter steeper one no?


    If you are looking at heads that are not real sharp that could be the case. I shoot the G5 Striker (3 blade) heads which are very steep angle, but also very sharp. Great performance for me. I also have shot Rocky, Muzzy, and RazorCaps. The RazorCaps are a swept design and worked better if your heads are not as sharp. I hope this makes scene to you.
  • elkoholicelkoholic Member Posts: 5,130
    edited November -1
    After doing some more research I ordered Slick Trick 4 blade but the psi vs penetration argument has some logic to it. I know a bunch of guys who chase elk with a bow but they all use 3 or 4 blade heads. Most don't have a good reason they just shoot what works for them.
  • lunkerbusterlunkerbuster Member Posts: 1,006 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    i've always had better results tuning 3 blades
  • bang250bang250 Member Posts: 8,021
    edited November -1
    quote:they just shoot what works for them.

    There ya go, if it works why change it. i used to shoot a new head every year. No reason, just cause I could. I'm on 2 years with the slick tricks now, they just work for me.
  • elkoholicelkoholic Member Posts: 5,130
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by lunkerbuster
    i've always had better results tuning 3 blades


    Most of the broadheads that are advertised as "flys like a field point" appear to be 4 blade. Is there any truth to this or just more marketing hype?

    My major frustration now is trying to cut through the "hype" to figure out what works. No luck so far. .

    I've heard lots of stories about broadheads coming apart or just not penetrating deep enough when they hit an elk rib. Especially if you have a down angle shot and have to punch through ribs at the thicker end.

    I was going to go with the wac'em but I sat down and designed what I thought would be the best broadhead for elk and when I was done I went looking for that design on the market. That's how I found the slick tricks.
  • BBQGUYBBQGUY Member Posts: 101 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Never heard anything bad about slick tricks, all good results with flight and cutting. Used grim reaper razor tips this year and was not impressed. No more expandables for me. I found the montec 3 blade not to be very sharp out of box last year. May have to try the slick tricks next year. 100 gr thunderheads have worked well for me in the past. Too many choices I guess.
  • buckeyboybuckeyboy Member Posts: 5,833
    edited November -1
    slick tricks are awsome broadheads [;)] going to try and trick one in the morning pretty cold with snow right now..
  • Fly DoctorFly Doctor Member Posts: 5,053
    edited November -1
    I've also been happy usin' 100 gr. G5 Strikers, a three-blade head with replaceable blades.
    Flies true to my field points. Blew through this sow like butter with enough energy to lodge
    in a tree behind her...

    DocsArcheryBear2007.jpg
  • ginmartiniginmartini Member Posts: 250 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I shot an elk this year with a G5 Montec. It was a 40 yard shot and went through about 8 inches, hitting ribs on both sides and puncturing both lungs. I would agree about the sharpness out of the box, but they are easy to sharpen. They fly super straight, as I also shot a coyote at 50 yards that broke the backbone and went completely through and flew about 30 yards further. It is all personal preference, and I don't think I'll continue to shoot mechanicals.
  • chevynutschevynuts Member Posts: 10 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have extensively tested broadhead flight for years. Bottom line 3 blade is best. When preparing to go hunting screw the broadhead of choice into the shaft and spin the arrow on something hard and see if it wobbles where the shaft and the broadhead meet.It should not wobble [as a miss gets bigger the farther you go]. If it does try putting the head in a different shaft. If this doesn,t work heat the shaft with a lighter or candle [where the insert in the shaft is inside].All you want to do is have the broadhead and insert turn at the same time. You do Not have to have the vanes lined up with the blades for perfect flight.Let the shaft cool and spin again. This is assuming you have the right size arrow for the weight of bow. I gaurantee this will help immensely.Carl
Sign In or Register to comment.