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Switching from field points to broadheads

hornethornet Member Posts: 262 ✭✭✭
edited August 2004 in Bow Hunting and Target Archery
Hi guy's I thought we may need something new to get all worked up about. For some reason we are setting new low temp records just about every night here in South Mississippi. last night it was 58 degrees, the previous nights 62, 64, 68. I love it, starting to get the urge to hunt real early this year. I do wish the weather would stay like this year round but I know it won't be long until we are back to the 98 degree days and 120% humdaty.
How many of you can switch from shooting field points to a broad head with out adjusting your sights? My High Country Carbon 4 Runner is the first bow I have owned that I did not have to do major sight adjustments to be able to switch from field points to broadheads. Most of the guys I hunt with have to do this every year. I had one bow that shot field points great and when you switched to broadheads it took an all day shooting sesion to re zero in with broadheads. I finally gave up and only shot broadheads for a couple of years, that got expensive. Has anyone else had this problem?

Hornet
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    MartesMartes Member Posts: 140 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I don't have to much of a problem, except this year when I couldn't get my normal Stinger 2-blades but had to set for an other brand, last time on the range I had erratic broadhead flight with my fast carbon arrows but none with my xx75. I refletched all my arrows with a more aggressive helical and solved the problem.
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    buckeyboybuckeyboy Member Posts: 5,833
    edited November -1
    Try paper tuning your bow, it's not very hard and will make a big difference. Also try tweeking the poundage a bit this also worked for me. there are some sites under paper tuning that tell you just what to do according to what kind of tear your getting. let me know how you make out.


    [}:)] "Wack em and stack em"[;)]
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    buckeyboybuckeyboy Member Posts: 5,833
    edited November -1
    Try paper tuning your bow, it's not very hard and will make a big difference. Also try tweeking the poundage a bit this also worked for me. there are some sites under paper tuning that tell you just what to do according to what kind of tear your getting. let me know how you make out.


    [}:)] "Wack em and stack em"[;)]
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    rich1317rich1317 Member Posts: 15 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I used to have that problem switching from my field points to the Thunderhead broadheads. Once zeroed in though, those are deadly heads but what a pain for me to adjust to the heads. Last year was the first year I started shooting Spitfires. WOW! I didn't have to make any adjustments at all. They shot exactly like field points. I shot about 6 or 7 deer with Thunderheads and each shot was a pass through and the deer never made it more than 40-50 yards, 2 only made it 20 yards. I got one with the spitfires last season and I was amazed at the results. The deer dropped in his tracks with no pass through. the hole on the opposite side of the deer looked like it was hit with a muzzleloader. Unreal results
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    azpowerwagonazpowerwagon Member Posts: 376 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Check out the easton website and look for the bow tuning area. About pg 11 is the section re broadhead tuning. Moving the nocking point a little bit helped me with the thunderheads. My windage was good with both field pts and the broadheads.
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