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RUGER OLD ARMY REVOLVER CAPS
gbrhino333
Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
I BROUGHT A OLDER RUGER OLD ARMY THAT IN THE INSTRUCTIONS SAYS TO USE #11 CAPS. ON THE BLOGS RUGER OWNERS SAY THEY ARE USING #11 AND #10 MAGNUM CAPS. I TRIED THE #11 AND MOST OF THE TIME I HAVE TO HIT THEM TWICE WITH THE HAMMER. I PRESSED THEM ON THE NIPPLE WITH A WOODED DOWEL BUT THAT DON'T SEEM TO HELP MUCH. THE GUN IS MUCH MORE ACCURATE THAN I WOULD HAVE IMAGINE.
Comments
-Not all #11 caps are created equal! There is a significant variation between manufacturers in the dimensions for a snug fit. You might try a couple different brands, and sizes (10's and 11's) to find the ones that are "just right".
-If you are getting a misfire, you might check the nipples haven't been deformed from dry firing; that the cap is seating fully, and the hammer's energy isn't being wasted by having to drive the cap onto the nipple to seat it fully, and not enough energy is left over to fire it. IF the cap is too small inside diameter for your gun's nipples, it can be very difficult to push it to seat fully even with a push stick. The clue in your statement might be that the caps fire the second time; the first hammer blow seated them tightly onto the nipple.
-Too loose a cap is a problem also, as they might shake off from recoil (can't fire if they fell off!), and could possibly offer the chance for chain-fire across cylinders.
-There are premium-grade replacement nipples available, that are superior in the metals they are made of, in fit, finish, and design, one name mentioned is Treso.
I checked my Ruger Old Army blued model and measured the length of the hammer nose from the ledge that is suppose to contact the frame when the hammer is in the fired position, intended to prevent the hammer nose from making firm contact with the nipple. This is intended to prevent damage to the nipple. My blued model never gives me any ignition problems with any #11 cap and always splits the cap indicating good contact.
My stainless steel model and my friends stainless steel model both had ignition problems. I found it had nothing to do with the type of caps we tried. The problem in both was being caused by the length of the hammer nose from that ledge, one both sides of the hammer to the nose tip was too short. Another tell tail sign was neither of the two stainless steel models would split the fired caps. The caps always remained intact.
The fix was to remove enough metal from the ledge on both sides of the hammer, so the length of the hammer nose matched that of my blued model. Problem fixed and the nipples are not being damaged by the hammer hitting them.
This is also an area to watch closely as the gun starts to get dirty from firing. As fouling can and does collect on the frame and hammer, the build up of fouling will start to cause misfires by preventing the hammer from going far enough forward during the firing cycle.
Please note, The Ruger Old Army is the only black powder cap & ball revolver I know of that uses this feature to prevent nipple damage and is said to be safe to dry fire.