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New Cap-Making Dies
ofitg
Member Posts: 359 ✭✭✭
This week I got a new cap-maker die in the mail. Brushhippie posted a video of the die on Youtube so I had to check it out -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91nRXFEXaEg&feature=share&list=UU4keAx4qZJL907szrou{burp}A
It was obviously patterned after the Forster Tap-O-Cap die, but there are some distinct differences. Here's a photo of the new cap-maker on the left, and the original Forster Tap-O-Cap on the right -
The new cap-maker has a shorter body made from aircraft-grade aluminum, while the original Tap-O-Cap had an all-steel body. Both machines have a steel rod anchored down in the base of the body (not visible in the photo).
The new cap-maker has a piston/plunger with 8 teeth on the end, made from non-magnetic stainless steel. The original Tap-O-Cap's plunger was a bit longer, and had 12 teeth on the end.
Both machines work the same way. First you insert thin sheet aluminum into the slot on the side of the body, and then you drive the plunger down into the body. The plunger cuts a disc from the sheet aluminum and folds it into a little percussion cap hull.
Here's a photo of the new cap-maker's hulls on the left, and the original Tap-O-Cap's hulls on the right (I used the soft sheet aluminum from disposable pie pans). The new cap-maker's hulls are almost identical to the old Tap-O-Cap hulls. They are the same length, and they fit well on the nipples of my Uberti and Pietta revolvers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91nRXFEXaEg&feature=share&list=UU4keAx4qZJL907szrou{burp}AIt was obviously patterned after the Forster Tap-O-Cap die, but there are some distinct differences. Here's a photo of the new cap-maker on the left, and the original Forster Tap-O-Cap on the right -
The new cap-maker has a shorter body made from aircraft-grade aluminum, while the original Tap-O-Cap had an all-steel body. Both machines have a steel rod anchored down in the base of the body (not visible in the photo).
The new cap-maker has a piston/plunger with 8 teeth on the end, made from non-magnetic stainless steel. The original Tap-O-Cap's plunger was a bit longer, and had 12 teeth on the end.
Both machines work the same way. First you insert thin sheet aluminum into the slot on the side of the body, and then you drive the plunger down into the body. The plunger cuts a disc from the sheet aluminum and folds it into a little percussion cap hull.
Here's a photo of the new cap-maker's hulls on the left, and the original Tap-O-Cap's hulls on the right (I used the soft sheet aluminum from disposable pie pans). The new cap-maker's hulls are almost identical to the old Tap-O-Cap hulls. They are the same length, and they fit well on the nipples of my Uberti and Pietta revolvers.
Comments
I'd love to be able to make reliable caps on my own.
I mean , come on now thats like reloading .22 rimfire ammo........altho in todays world that might not be a bad idea
Just wondered if anyone found a brand or source that actually had a high reliability rate. Anyone?
As for those dies, the product looks awful crude, and reports of non-performance of toy caps for ignition don't sound awful promising. I'd make my own caps in a heartbeat if I could be sure they'd work.
Most people making their own caps load a small pinch of fine blackpowder dust into the empty hull, and seat a single paper cap center on top of the powder.
A few adventurous folks brew up their own primer compound.
"Never do wrong to make a friend----or to keep one".....Robert E. Lee
Taking two bolts and one nut we put one or two match heads in and GENTLY snugged up the bolts.
On landing they exploded pretty good, separating the hardware.
While this sounds dangerous, I don't remember anyone getting hurt.
My father did the same in early 1900s using hollow keys,match heads, string and a nail against a wall.
In my experience with a Tanner flintlock, flour consistency BP in pan and touchhole cut ignition time in half.
In my young years, either KCLO3 or KCLO3 plus S (I forget) crackled then detonated in a porcelain mortar and pestle while in my hands.
The KCLo3 was in sugar size granules. I wanted to reduce it to powder. The finer it is, the more sensitive to ignition.
Be careful.
http://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/priming-mixtures.58110/
sportsmans warehouse has a wall full.
time to hoard is now.