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TC hawken primer adapter
varian
Member Posts: 2,250 ✭✭✭✭
is it possible to convert my old TC hawken to use 209 primers what would i need to buy to do so. thanks
Comments
Been using 209's in T/c Hawken and Renegades for 10 years or more.
Here is a link for buying:
http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/mag-spark.html
The T/C Hawken threads are 1/4-28.
Their is a seller on ebay every once in awhile. His is about $31 with free shipping. here is one. 281980497176 You can ask him some questions or also Warren outdoors.
I've converted several that we use for hunting deer.
We use Winchester triple 7 209 primers. (Wal-Mart sells them.
Use about 70 grs of triple 7 2f Hodgdons powder. The 3F is not as accurate consistent in the 45 and 50 cal Hawkens with the 209's.
I've listed some suggested accurate hunting loads on this site few times that work real good with most Hawkens 1-48 to 1-28 twist barrel using sabots. do a search.
We also use the no drill and tap scope mounts for the octagon barrel Hawken 50 and 54 calibers. Their are two obsolete T/C no drill and tap mounts that uses the front sight two holes and a rear tang screw hole that was factory drilled and tapped after about 1990. The tang screw hole if not already in the old models can be easily drilled and tapped because the steel is not hard and thick working metal in the barrel tang. One scope base is the T/C 9920 and requires a Weaver 408 scope base. The other T/C Hawken scope base mount is the 9953 (blue) and the 9947 (silver) and the silver can be easily matte spray painted matte black. The 9953 and 9947 have multiple Weaver scope rings cross slots and also have several screw holes holes drilled and tapped for see thru rings. Iron Sighter makes a no drill and tap see thru type scope mount, about $40 new, but the T/C are the better ones. The T/C are heavy made steel bases. The NLA obselete T/C bases show up on fleabay every once in awhile. They sold new for around $45 but can be had for approx. 1/2 that price with careful shopping. I heat (with acetylene torch) and put a very slight outward bend in the Hammer spur for more user friendly access if the scope is crowding the Hammer spur. (after removing the hammer and placing it in a vise) T/C offered the NLA factory Hawken and Renegade hammers at one time, pre-bent.
I paint the primer adapter caps blaze orange in case it get dropped in the leaves. I carry a spare primer adapter cap (about $15) in case I drop mine out of a tree stand when reloading.
I've never had to go to the spare cap.
Have not ever had a misfire or hangfire since started using the 209's in sidelock rifles.
Only drawback is not user friendly to reload when up in a tree stand in cold weather. A big plus is all the 209 fire is contained in the adapter, no splatter of the primer to the face, but always wear eye protection when shooting black powder guns. Not recommended for T/C sidelocks but I've even used pyrodex pellets with the 209 primers. Just add about 5 grains of loose powder (triple 7) or regular black powder first then the pellet. Had real good accuracy using 20gr of triple 7 2f and a 50 gr pyrodex pellet. make sure the black end of the pellet is towards the 209 primer or towards the loose primer powder. The black end of the pyrodex pellet is impregnated with black powder that has a lower ignition temp than pyrodex so it starts burning faster and more readily.
I have all kinds of inline muzzleloaders, Remington 700ML, 700 ultimate, Ruger 77/50ML, but I prefer the 209 long barrel Hawken with the set triggers after I got 100% ignition with the 209's.
We also use the NLA Green Mountain Long Range Hunter 1-28 stainless barrels with good results in the 50 and 45 calibers.
The T/c no drill and tap adapters mentioned aboue fit the 45, 50, 54 caliber Hawkens. The Renegades barrels take a different adapter which is shorter. Spacing from rear tang hole to the fronts sight holes is not same as Hawken barrels. I've took Hawken scope bases and cut them off and re-drilled the tang screw hole for a Renegade barrel when I could not readily locate a Renegade scope base.
Thanks Oakie, had not seen one before, but for $30.25 and free shipping, one is on the way from that other place you mentioned.[:D]
HEADS UP NOTICE:
You may have to loosen the little screw in the side of the existing nipple port for use with the mag spark in Hawken and Green Mountain barrels to allow the Mag spark adapter to fully seat and to keep the little screw from damaging the threads on the mag spark. Some T/C Hawken barrel are ok as is, but Green Mountain barrels most generally require loosening the small screw to prevent hitting the Mag spark adapter threads. A small screw with a head for a stop would be the ideal solution so would not thread in too far and touch the adapter. The later models T/C barrels are allen wrench and the older ones are small screwdriver and if they have not been loosened every once in a * age they are usually stuck and hard to break loose, heating them helps free them. The mag spark adapter that screws into the nipple port has slightly longer threads than a standard #11 or musket nipple and will contact the cleanout screw in the side of the nipple port on some barrels..
Also it's a good idea after about 10 shots to use the supplied allen wrench and loosen the mag spark adapter about 3 turns and re-snug not real tight. Anti-seize on the threads helps somewhat but powder fouling is on the bottom of the threads and builds up little at a time therefore work the adapter back and forth if it feels snug instead of just continuous cranking. Remove the 209 adapter and clean it's threads before storing the gun after a shooting session.
If you don't loosen the small screw in the side of the nipple barrel adapter the 209 adapter will interfere with in and not tighten fully or you might ruin the threads on the 209 adapter due to interference with the small screw, especially when using Green Mountain barrels.
Once you install the 209 adapter do not fully tighten the clean out screw against the 209 adapter. If you screw the clean out screw in too far it will jamb into the 209 adapter lower bottom threads and lock the 209 adapter in place and if you don't loosen the clean out screw FIRST before loosening the 209 adapter you will ruin the bottom threads of the 209 adapter and might damage the nipple port threads as you remove the 209 adapter..
I am also going to see if it fits my Hatfield. If it does I will get another.
Send them a email and ask, then if it don't fit you can return for refund, maybe.