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s&w m&p revolver locks up
hanknguns
Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
This gun will lock up on me always on double action, and now on single action. From what I have read I may need a new hand and extracter. This is a model 1905 I think (1947-1948) as the serial number has a S prefix and 996xxx. I have been able to find parts for the model 10 and the victory, but nothing inbetween. Is this gun compatable with any other models on parts like these? Any info would be helpfull, as this is a great revolver. Thanks.
Comments
OK. So with cylinder empty can you thumb the hammer all the the way back to locked, press the trigger and have the hammer fall, 6 times. With the hammer down the cylinder should be locked in position and only have a little play. Does it feel the same each time or do one or more require more effort to cock?
How does it feel just pulling the triger back six times any increased effort required between chambers, cylinder locked with hammer down.
As Rufe stated, a loose ejector rod was a common problem. It has a reverse thread, so to screw it in you turn it to the left.
WRONG, the older revolvers had RIGHT HAND threads [:0] He needs to turn it to the RIGHT [;)]
Does the cylinder open and close hard [?]
This gun will lock up on me always on double action, and now on single action. From what I have read I may need a new hand and extracter. This is a model 1905 I think (1947-1948) as the serial number has a S prefix and 996xxx. I have been able to find parts for the model 10 and the victory, but nothing inbetween. Is this gun compatable with any other models on parts like these? Any info would be helpfull, as this is a great revolver. Thanks.
I think we need a better explanation of what is meant by "locking up". Does this mean that when the cylinder is closed and you cock the hammer by thumb that the cylinder doesn't move? Or deso it mean that when you try to open the cylinder it won't open?
We're all doing a bit of guess work, but when you say the problem first presented itself in DA it makes me think the cylinder bolt is not disengaging from the cylinder bolt recess in the cylinder.
You can operate the Smith with the cylinder swung out, just hold the cylinder release to the rear manually then try to work the action. If it functions my guess would be the cylinder bolt is not camming down before the hand starts to move the cylinder. Replacing the cylinder bolt would be the way to go, I think, not replacing the hand and ratchet.
Your revolver is a K frame and a cylinder bolt for the 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19 and so on would work but should be fitted.
Hopefully it's just the ejector rod backing out, that's an easy fix.
Edit 1: Since we're running out of responses, again suggest swinging out the cylinder & manually holding the cylinder latch (thumbpiece) to the rear. Thumbcock the hammer. This will eliminate the cylinder bolt dropping late as being the possible cause. If the gun functions properly & smoothly with the cylinder out my $$$ is on the cylinder bolt. That you pressed the cylinder to the rear and the gun worked is consistent with a cylinder bolt issue as doing so may change the relationship of the bolt to the cylinder recess - the cylinder recess is shallower on each end than in the middle of the cut.
The cylinder bolt is the small, white steel tab that pops up & down in the center bottom of the cylinder opening in the frame of the revolver.
Parts should not be too hard to find for this gun.