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floorplate help
toad67
Member Posts: 13,019 ✭✭✭✭
I have an early Wby Euromark Mark V in 300wby with a hinged floor plate. The bottom metal is cast aluminum. When I press the button inside the trigger guard the floor plate won't release, even with ammo in it. There is some what looks to be corrosion, or old oil. Some of the corrosion is white, and some is brown right around the release pin/trigger guard. I've let it sit with some CLP, but nothing yet. I think corrosion is the culprit, but not sure since I've put enough pressure on the release button that it should've opened if it was going to. Since the plate covers up the last screw, taking it out of the stock is not an option. Thoughts?
Comments
A few light taps in the "corroded"latching area with a non marring hammer might help to loosen up the grip of the corrosion and give the CLP or Kroil a little help.
The "white corrosion" is the indicator. It is actually the aluminum surface in direct contact with the steel. Being chemically broken down.
If you can't separate the aluminum and steel parts, to remove all the "white corrosion". So that it won't continue. Your going to have to get another aluminum floor plate.
Something has to be done to isolate the aluminum and steel parts. To prevent the chemical reaction, causing the aluminum surface to break down.
When aluminum and steel parts are together. The aluminum will start to deteriorate. If it isn't isolated from the steel, with a protective coating of some kind.
The "white corrosion" is the indicator. It is actually the aluminum surface in direct contact with the steel. Being chemically broken down.
If you can't separate the aluminum and steel parts, to remove all the "white corrosion". So that it won't continue. Your going to have to get another aluminum floor plate.
Something has to be done to isolate the aluminum and steel parts. To prevent the chemical reaction, causing the aluminum surface to break down.
The bottom metal is all one piece aluminum. The only steel parts appear to be the pins, follower and spring and maybe the floorplate pin.
Edit: A few strokes of the file on the floorplate catch pin allows it to release, but you need to put quite a bit of finger pressure to make it happen though. It is an older Wby Euromark that was owned by Craig Boddington with provenance, and pics of him and the first leopard that he ever killed was with this gun. Thanks Fellas!
Todd
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
When aluminum and steel parts are together. The aluminum will start to deteriorate. If it isn't isolated from the steel, with a protective coating of some kind.
The "white corrosion" is the indicator. It is actually the aluminum surface in direct contact with the steel. Being chemically broken down.
If you can't separate the aluminum and steel parts, to remove all the "white corrosion". So that it won't continue. Your going to have to get another aluminum floor plate.
Something has to be done to isolate the aluminum and steel parts. To prevent the chemical reaction, causing the aluminum surface to break down.
The bottom metal is all one piece aluminum. The only steel parts appear to be the pins, follower and spring and maybe the floorplate pin.
If the floorplate hinges on a steel axis pin? This is where the "white corrosion", would affect the operation of the floorplate. If the floorplate, hasn't been hard anodized i.e. when assembled, the anodized coating has been removed.
quote:Originally posted by toad67
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
When aluminum and steel parts are together. The aluminum will start to deteriorate. If it isn't isolated from the steel, with a protective coating of some kind.
The "white corrosion" is the indicator. It is actually the aluminum surface in direct contact with the steel. Being chemically broken down.
If you can't separate the aluminum and steel parts, to remove all the "white corrosion". So that it won't continue. Your going to have to get another aluminum floor plate.
Something has to be done to isolate the aluminum and steel parts. To prevent the chemical reaction, causing the aluminum surface to break down.
That's where I was originally going with it. However, I could put enough pressure on the release latch so that the portion inside the trigger guard was flush and it still wouldn't release the f/p. The lever just would not travel far enough to let it release. I just took a few strokes to shorten the catch pin and viola! Another thing that I learned is that when I looked in my exploded gun drawings book this type of action was considered an American version of the mark v action, rather than the standard (European?) version that is listed on the numerich site.
The bottom metal is all one piece aluminum. The only steel parts appear to be the pins, follower and spring and maybe the floorplate pin.
If the floorplate hinges on a steel axis pin? This is where the "white corrosion", would affect the operation of the floorplate. If the floorplate, hasn't been hard anodized i.e. when assembled, the anodized coating has been removed.
How does it function if you loosen the rear guard screw 1/8-1/4-1/2 turn?
If this alleviates the binding it's possible the wood has suffered crush from over tightening the guard screw/s.