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Question for mechanics
Big Dave
Member Posts: 730 ✭✭✭✭
Engine light came on in my 2001 Ford F-150 w/4.6 Triton. Coded for EGR. Took EGR off and cleaned it. Cleared code and all is well. Almost.
Now when RPMS drop to idle, such as when slowing to and coming to a stop. Get a strange humming noise. Sometimes only last a few seconds. Sometimes lasts as long as sitting at idle. Always quits as soon as RPMS are increased. Seems to be coming from somewhere on driver side of engine. Has not tripped engine light. Engines seems to run fine. Any ideas what it might be?
Now when RPMS drop to idle, such as when slowing to and coming to a stop. Get a strange humming noise. Sometimes only last a few seconds. Sometimes lasts as long as sitting at idle. Always quits as soon as RPMS are increased. Seems to be coming from somewhere on driver side of engine. Has not tripped engine light. Engines seems to run fine. Any ideas what it might be?
Comments
I have a 93 Chevy 1500 Z-71 4x4 regular cab, short box, 350 V8, AT, PS, CC, A/C, PB.
About 18 months ago it started shaking at about 45-50 mph. Didn't matter if I was accelerating, decelerating or cruising at that speed, it still shook. Took it to 3 different shops since. I've spent over $1500 on this with no results. Don't ask why I spent $1500, it's a very long complicated story. Maybe I'll tell ya some day. [;)][V]
Anyways, the following has been checked and found to be good or replaced with new.
Tie-rod ends (new)
A-arm bushings (good)
Upper and Lower Ball Joints (good)
Pitman arm (new)
Drag Link (new)
Center Link (?)
Steering column (good)
Steering gearbox (new)
Brake rotors have been turned and new brake pads installed.
Even took it to a quality frame and alignment shop. The alignment is right on the money and the frame isn't bent.
About the only thing that hasn't been replaced are the shocks. I'll do that when I return home next week. We put new tires, 265/75R16 (rims cleaned, tires balanced), on it yesterday. There is no excess dirt, mud built up inside the rims. I do have a set of aftermarket aluminum alloy wheels from American Racing on the truck also.
I still get the shake at about 45-50 mph, BUT it's not near as severe as it was. It's more like a shimmy now. Still bothersome.
Do these trucks with IFS need any kind of steering stabilizer shock like the older Chevy's had?
Any other things I need to check?[B)][B)][B)]
Looking on fleabay I found this....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R134A-AC-AIR-CONDITIONING-AIR-VACUUM-PUMP-A-C-TOOL-AUTO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34999QQihZ014QQitemZ330118085351QQrdZ1
Do these work? Or should spend the extra cash on this type...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FJC-4-CFM-Vacuum-Pump-HV-AC-R12-R134-Model-6910_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63700QQihZ011QQitemZ320111144412QQrdZ1
Tom
At speeds of 45 mph and higher, the car jerks or misses.
I took it in for repair and had it analyzed. They even checked the exhaust but nothing was found to cause this problem. The car was tuned about 5000 miles ago. Can anyone give me an idea as to what is going on? i thought it was the EGR valve but it checked out O.K.
Where there is no vision,the people perish!
BTW....2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. 3.3 flex-fuel engine.
Does it go away at over 50mph or get worse? Are the driveshafts still in balance? Is it stuck in 4wd? Do you have a stuck front hub locker? When you turn sharp and drive in a circle does either of the front tires skip? Are the U-joints on the driveshafts loose or tight?
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To the rich, everything is a neccessity. To the poor, everything is a luxury
Is it a shake coming from the front end, rear end, middle? Can you tell? Does the steering wheel shake?
Does it go away at over 50mph or get worse? Are the driveshafts still in balance? Is it stuck in 4wd? Do you have a stuck front hub locker? When you turn sharp and drive in a circle does either of the front tires skip?
It feels like the front. I can feel the steering wheel shake from side to side like someone has ahold of the front tires and is shaking them. If it was coming from the middle or the back, I should be able to feel it through the seat......right up my spine.
At 50 mph or above, it goes away.
Drive shafts should still be good since my son and I put new u-joints in last summer.
No, I don't think it's stuck in 4wd. Also, it does not have lock-out hubs.
I can hear the front differential 'click' once when I put the transfer case in 2 HI and back up, so I presume it's unlocked then.
Front tires don't skip in a tight turn unless it's in 4wd.
Got a picture ? I think you can solve this one. [8D]
Have you had somebody drive in front of you and look at the truck while you were driving it to see if it is doing anything it shouldn't be? Does it pull to one side or the other or is the steering kind of "wishy washy" at those speeds?
My old jeep had a very similar problem as this one time. Vibrated like hell at 55mph in the front end. Turned out to be a wheel that took a pretty rough hit while offroading and it was bent ever so slightly. Enough to cause it to vibrate and shake but not enough to see it by eye with the tire still on it. Noticed it when I pulled the rim and laid the rim on a granite surface table.
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To the rich, everything is a neccessity. To the poor, everything is a luxury
And don't climb under the truck running at speed.
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It's All Crapola!!!
JESUS SAVES
Was the truck vibrating before you replaced the u joints?
Just happened to remember that I replaced the u joints on my Bronco a few years ago, and picked up a vibration. Seems I had installed the u joints "out of phase" -- I turned them 180 degrees and the vibration went away. From that time on I always mark a drive shaft if it pulled and put it back exactly the same way.
I had s similar problem a few years ago on another car, and the only way we could get it fixed was to spin balance the tires on the car with a Hunter Spin Strobe Balancer. They're dinosaurs these days with computer balancing machines, it would be hard to find a shop that could do it.
I'm far from a mechanic, but can make stupid suggestions as well as anyone. Are all pistons firing? tire pressures even? engine strongly secured? transmission geared wrong/slipping? Ah hell, it is a chevy. I don't know what ya expect to get for that kind of ignorance![}:)]
To the rich, everything is a neccessity. To the poor, everything is a luxury
Clearly you are not a mechanic.
"No taxation without representation, Join the NRA"
The IFS 4x4's have a weak spot in the front differential, the axle seal, which in turn takes out the bearing and destroys the carrier housing.
Put the front up on jackstands and grab the axle. See if it will move up and down or front to back. Look for movement between the axle CV boot and the carrier. If it does, you found your vibration.
"Aim small, Miss small"
Just `cause the U-joints are new, doesn't mean they are not the cause of your problem.
Check your leaf springs, saw a F250 that shimmied around 30mph and around sharp turns, turned out to be a broken leaf.
Sounds like you have checked everything else. Every though it may be in the bottom end of the engine? Could a cam bearing being loose or bad cause a skae only at a certain speed? Just talking out loud here.
good luck
JBoss......Fear No Fish/peace through superior firepower/If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you are reading it in English, thank a soldier!!!!!!!!!
New carriage bearing did the trick.
"No taxation without representation, Join the NRA"
Keep Your Powder Dry
The only criminal class that is native to the United States is congress.
MARK TWAIN
gawd, do I hate this kind of problem!!!!
sounds like you already spent some major bucks chaseing down the culprit, so here are some diy checks.
select fire is on the money about cord seperation or belt shift, check very closely COMPLETELY around all the tire tread, you are looking for any bump, even small, or a spot where the tread seems to shift a little from its regular pattern.
265's arent that wide, but sometimes if you go to a wider tire than original it can make a difference, especially on the steering axle
third check to see if the wheels are true, you can switch front to rear and see if the shimmy now seems to come from under your but, in which case one or both wheels formerly shakeing on the front is slightly bent. or jack the front end up and turn the wheel hard to one side, useing a fixed rod clamped to some sheet metal or the frame, slowly spin the wheel to see if it either pushes in or moves away from the end of the rod. repeat on other wheel.
you replaced the brakes and rotors, tie rods etc. how bout the wheel bearings? a single burned ball that has a rough spot or a gouge can cause quite a bit of roughness.
and lastly double check your rotors, some of the newer ones can be warped by un-even tightening of the wheel, as disk bakes never completely leave contact with the rotor surface, at certain speeds the "bumping" of the disk/pad can cause vibration, though usually, unless the caliper will not retract fully it will only go through the shimmy once untill you step on the brake and push it out again
Greg.
Takeoffs are optional, landings are mandatory.
If it Flies it Dies
Love them Beavers
2) I know this sounds crazy, but really worth a shot. could be torque converter lock up shudder. 1st, replace the fuel filter. if the trans is an 'e4ld' automatic trans, unbelieveably, a plugged filter will cause the trans to screw up. I've seen a lot of tranny's replaced, or attempted repair done with no improvement. Turns out that a partially clogged filter will wreak havoc with trans function. Also, at Advance auto parts, they sell a product called 'Trans-X' comes in a pint.( they also have a Trans fluid from the same company. you want the addative). Pretty good chance that it will cure your problem, as you've looked everywhere else.
PS this is rcrxmike_2, i didn't re-log.
"Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocrities. The latter cannot understand it that the former does not submit to hereditary predjudices, but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence." - Albert E.
On my tombstone:"Keep you eyes on the road, your hands upon the wheel..."the Lizard King
The bubbles will make the ring and pinion bounce around causing a fibration in your truck. This has happened to me,also GM recomends that the rear end dope be changed out every 25,000 miles.
Your repairs do not list anyone checking out the rear end fluid.
I also work at American Axle where the rear end drive line is made in Detroit.
Sometimes the simple things will cost the unknowing big bucks.<1fmj>
My jeep did it after sitting all summer...cause was dirt in the spark plugs. Another time it was the engine mounts, needed replacing.
Maybe not your problem but would check it just to be sure.