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new travil trailer owner
Cornflk1
Member Posts: 3,715 ✭✭✭
Just bought a used 30', 5th wheel travel trailer. I know several GB'ers are avid campers. I would like to hear some basic tips as far as maintance of the holding tanks etc.
This will by my first experience in a travel trailer. I believe I'm fairly experienced with gooseneck flat beds and stock trailers as far as handling, but don't have a clue about taking care of a vehicle that hauls both my bed and bathroom.
This will by my first experience in a travel trailer. I believe I'm fairly experienced with gooseneck flat beds and stock trailers as far as handling, but don't have a clue about taking care of a vehicle that hauls both my bed and bathroom.
Comments
http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformation/rvmaintenance/a-guide-to-camper-care.asp
http://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-maintenance-tips-repairs/
https://rvshare.com/blog/rv-maintenance/
http://www.rvuniversity.com/staticpages/index.php/RV_PM_101
https://www.rvrepairclub.com/
And for specific items, there are a ton of videos on YouTube on how to do it's!
Happy camping.
We have enough gun laws, what we need is IDIOT control.
Blood makes you related. Loyalty makes you family.
I thought getting old would take longer. :shock:
Fill up your fresh water tank at the campsite, that way you will be pulling less weight.
Get a back up camera instead of using your wife to tell you which way to turn while backing into the site.
Get some leveling wedges if you don't have jacks.
Don't forget to fill up your propane tank locally, it's a lot cheaper than doing it at the camp.
Don't forget to have fun too.
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/26.cfm
I am not joking when I say I have seen some friends and family spouse fights from this. People that get along perfectly otherwise.
My wife tries, but she never used consistent terminology or direction. She may say turn left when she is facing the front or back of the trailer. What I finally did, was wire some car driving lights (the older style you mount to the bumper or underneath) to the bottom rear of the camper frame. I then wired a 3 position switch in the battery box. One position was off, one was on, the other was on only when my reverse lights were on. I also bought 2 of those lit driveway markers. I'd pull up, hop out, mark my inside turn area with one, she'd just watch the far side of the turn where my mirrors couldn't see.
My wife and I both thought we'd love camping. We probably would have more so years ago. Now, with my back, it seems about all the pain tolerance I have is to get to the campground and set up. Then, end of the weekend reverse it and go home. We sold it. But, we live on 10 acres. While in a subdivision of sorts, everybody has a large lot and behind us is a farm so being home actually feels more relaxing than being 12' away from another group.
Trust me.
I always carry about 1/2 tank of fresh water when traveling. Very handy when stopping for a potty break (I don't like using public restrooms) and washing your hands afterwards or after changing a tire or other 'emergency' road service.
Many make a check list of things to do when setting up or getting ready for the road just to be sure you haven't forgot to do something.
Practice and repetition help.
Happy camping.
PS: Most campers have ST tires specifically made for camping trailers and are speed rated at 65 MPH maximum. However, Goodyear Endurance and Maxxis brand tires are speed rated for around 85 Miles per hour.
We have enough gun laws, what we need is IDIOT control.
Blood makes you related. Loyalty makes you family.
I thought getting old would take longer. :shock:
It worked out really well for me since the company I worked for gave me the money to buy the trailer instead of paying me for an apartment or motel to stay in. Then when I retired I was able to sell the trailer for a little over $13,000 which was a lot better than throwing it away on apartments and hotels.
I worried more about high water pressure in different RV parks than most anything else. I had a good stainless steel water pressure regulator for my trailer along with a remote control shut off valve. With the click of the remote I could turn off the water when I went to work in the morning or at night before I went to bed. Nothing worse than discovering a water fall running out your trailer door when you return home or wet feet when you get up to go to the john during the night which I've heard some horror stories about from other trailer owners.
I kept a plastic bucket over it all to protect it from the weather along with an insulated hose to keep it from freezing.
I also had Sherline Tongue Scales for my trailer since my trailer used a rear receiver hitch instead of a 5th wheel so I wouldn't overload the tongue.
Since I didn't have a 5th wheel I also had a Equal-i-zer Hitch with sway control.
A surge protector is also a good thing to have. I was lucky that all the RV parks that I stayed at had a constant source of power. I never experience a power surge that tripped anything.
Vent covers are also something to protect your trailer from rain. You can keep the vents open in a pretty strong rain storm and not get wet. I had the MaxxAir's on mine.
Last but not least if possible during hot weather, especially down south, don't park your trailer in a spot with the broadside of the trailer toward the evening sun. Your A/C unit will thank you for it.
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-183-029-18-White-Pressure-Regulated/dp/B00074QUDU/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=IdMSH&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=MH17BW7J23YPMM03R09D&pd_rd_r=ebaf6eaa-ddc2-4527-97ef-f72855634104&pd_rd_wg=pTHcu&pd_rd_i=B00074QUDU&psc=1&refRID=MH17BW7J23YPMM03R09D
Water pressure in campgrounds can vary greatly and should not exceed 100 psi for a camper.
We have enough gun laws, what we need is IDIOT control.
Blood makes you related. Loyalty makes you family.
I thought getting old would take longer. :shock:
You have to hook up your water line anyway. I didn't have to hook up anything extra because it was all hooked together. Only one connection.
Lots of answers.
Know it all's too
Lived in a TT for 5 months on a job in Colorado in 2010. Dragged it home, backed into a covered storage area, and haven't hooked it up since.
Expensive to haul, hard on the tow vehicle, costly to park anywhere you really want to go, and always something going wrong.
I went the antifreeze way. Hooked it up and then ran each faucet until the pink stuff came out, both hot and cold. I did shut off the water heater valves so I wouldn't waste the antifreeze filling it up.
I always emptied my water heater after every camp.
That way there was no stale, stagnant water in it for the next time.
Whatever works best for the individual user - but wise to use one.
We have enough gun laws, what we need is IDIOT control.
Blood makes you related. Loyalty makes you family.
I thought getting old would take longer. :shock:
Never an issue for me pulling a 30' toy hauler after some 10 years of moving around 100 manufactured home a year; some 16' wide and up to 85' long. The only difference is a shorter trailer reacts quicker than a longer one! :-)
We have enough gun laws, what we need is IDIOT control.
Blood makes you related. Loyalty makes you family.
I thought getting old would take longer. :shock:
Can save a lot of trouble.
serf
I sanitize my fresh water tank every spring before using. I also drain it after every trip to avoid stagnant water.
C&P
"How to by Steven Fletcher:
Insuring clean, safe drinking water in your motorhome, fifth wheel or travel trailer requires sanitizing your fresh water system. For a new or new-to-you RV you will want to sanitize before your first use of the system. You may also want to sanitize the system if your RV has not been used for some time, for example if it has been stored for the winter.
Generally Accepted Method to Sanitize Fresh Water
The generally accepted method of sanitizing your RV's fresh water system as outlined below involves filling the fresh water tank with a solution of household bleach and running the solution through each faucet. Then letting it stand for at least three hours. Finally, flush the system once or twice to remove the taste and smell.
This procedure is one you'll find in most any book about RVing it tried and true but be sure to read on to find out what I do.
Start with a nearly full fresh water tank.
Turn the water heater off and let the water cool.
Dilute 1/4 cup of household bleach for each 15 gallons of tank capacity in to a gallon of water.
Add the chlorine/water solution to the water tank. (Never pour straight bleach into the RV fresh water tank. )
One faucet at a time, let the chlorinated water run through them for one or two minutes. You should be able to smell the chlorine. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)
Top off the RV fresh water tank and let stand for at least three hours over night is better.
Completely drain the system by flushing the faucets for several minutes each. Open the fresh water tank drain valve to speed up emptying the tank.and Open the hot water tank drain plug and drain until it is empty.
Close all valves and faucets and drain plugs.
Fill water tank with fresh water.
Flush each faucet for several minutes each repeating until the tank is again empty. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)
Fill the tank again. The water should now be safe to drink but if the chlorine odor is too strong you can repeat the fresh water flush.
Your RV fresh water system should now be safe for use."
THE ALTERNATIVE
"The way I Sanitize My RV's Fresh Water Tank.
A friend and fellow full time RVer, Bill Randolph told me how he uses something other than household bleach which works well for him and I also started using it. I think it is worth passing on to you. Before he retired, Bill spent twenty years in the swimming pool business. He's an expert when it comes to sanitizing swimming pools and spas and says the same rules apply to RV fresh water systems.
Bill uses Chlorinating Concentrate (Sodium Dichloro-s-Triazinetricone or Sodium Dichlor for short). Sodium Dichlor contains 62% available chlorine. Compare that to household bleach which has something close to 3%. One pound of Sodium Dichlor is equal to 8 gallons of bleach! Also, household bleach contains other stuff, including a lot of salt, and that salt and other stuff is what causes the bad taste and why you have to flush the fresh water tank so well.
Bill says it takes only 1 teaspoon of the concentrate per 100 gallons of water to initially sanitize the system. Remember to run water through all the faucets. It's okay to use the full teaspoon even on smaller tanks because you will be flushing the tank before adding the water you intend to drink but it seems wasteful.
Like most of us, Bill travels with a near empty tank to reduce weight. So if he arrives at park where he plans to stay and they have well water, he drops a half teaspoon per 100 gallons of the concentrate into the fill tube and fills his water tank. This insures the system will always be sanitized. No, you do not have to flush again. It's the equivalent to drinking chlorinated city water. If you are filling your tank from a source that is already chlorinated then you don't need to add the concentrate.
That said, if you don't like to drink chlorinated water, don't add the concentrate to the water you intend to drink. Assuming, you fill your water tank from a trusted source you should be safe. Or, you can add the concentrate and then filter the water you drink or cook with.
Truth is I almost always seem to be filling the fresh water tank from a chlorinated source (city water supply) so I seldom need to to use the concentrate. And we do filter our drinking water.
This is not a case where more is better. This stuff is concentrated and it's best to use just what Bill recommends.
Because Sodium Dichlor is so highly concentrated you only need to carry a very small container... buy the smallest container available. And it is dry crystals so there is less chance of a spill. However, because it is so concentrated it is highly corrosive so you do have to be careful how you store it and use it. You should be able to find Sodium Dichlor (Chlorinating Concentrate) at any pool supplies or spa store. Bill says there are several brands to choose from but brand should not be a factor in your choice... it's all the same stuff."
https://www.rvbasics.com/techtips/sanitizing-your-rv-fresh-water-system.html
==============================
Personally, some 25 - 30 years ago I just barely made it out of a small water treatment facility with a chlorine gas leak. I can not tolerate the taste/smell of chlorine, not even in a motel room near a swimming pool so I use the Sodium Dichlor method....no taste and no smell plus with such a small amount required, a container of the powder will last for years and years and the cost per container is only about Five dollars.
We have enough gun laws, what we need is IDIOT control.
Blood makes you related. Loyalty makes you family.
I thought getting old would take longer. :shock:
OK ........ I was just addressing backing up a trailer/camper, nothing to do with a spotter. Guess that could have been confusing.
We have enough gun laws, what we need is IDIOT control.
Blood makes you related. Loyalty makes you family.
I thought getting old would take longer. :shock:
The wife and I have already used ours more than we anticipated this 1st summer. We actually just recently did our 1st full week off in it and longest trip(4 1/2 hour drive each way). We learned the most about the camper and ourselves that week. It was an absolute blast.
I don't have much advice that hasn't already been offered. Just take your time and go at your own pace when towing. Get yourself a routine when setting up/breaking down, but don't overstress about it. I have actually found it easier than I thought it was going to be. Same with hitching and unhitching. You are going to make little mistakes or forget little things....again, don't worry too much about it. I forgot to turn the water heater on our 1st time out. The wife went to take a shower in it the next morning and that's when we found out.....whoops!
Also, if you forgot something or don't have a tool to fix something, don't be afraid to ask around the campground. I'm very shy about that stuff, but I've learned that most campgrounds and campers are so damn willing to help each other, it's almost ridiculous. I moved my tuck at the last site we were at to help a fella have more room, for backing his big 5th wheel in with his long box truck. The next morning, when the wife and I were packing up and hooking up to go home, he walked over and helped guide me out of my site. I don't think it was necessary, but it certainly didn't hurt having the extra set of eyes.
Jon
Yesterday we scouted a local State park. Think we may wait until the summer / week-end campers kinda thin out. Don't want to show my * the first time out of the chute. I don't even know how to hook up sewage or dump yet :oops:
Then open the black water outlet valve, wait until the tank is empty, then close that valve and open the grey water valve until that is empty. An option would be to leave the black water valve open while you are draining the grey water. That will sometimes dislodge toilet paper that gets stuck in the valve.
There is usually a water hose close or you can use the hose you have for your fresh water tank to flush out the drain hose. When cleaning your dump hose, position the spray nozzle so you don't get any splashback in your face, (I learned that the hard way) :shock: .
Not all campsites have a septic drain at the campsite, so you may have to go to the central dumpsite to empty the tanks. If you forget to dump before you leave, you can even dump at a campsite that you are not staying at, but you will have to pay a small fee.
Edit: the drain hose is typically stored in the rear bumper of the trailer, just remove the end cap and drag it out.
When you hook up to the sewer don't leave your valves open to drain. Keep them closed until your tanks are near full and then dump. Otherwise you can end up with a real problem. If you leave the valves open the water will run out of the tanks and leave the solids in the tank where it can cause a big clog.
When you open the valves to dump them be sure and dump the black tank (toilet) first. Then dump the gray tank (sink ect.) last so it can flush out your drain line.
Another thing, it's best to use single ply toilet paper because it drains better and not as likely to cause a clog.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izfh07ioo44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcThAdN2ULE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6X1PaR1ivMg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GQgX55t0B0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5jMhd6ntGo
After watching these ....... most of your questions should be answered.
Happy camping.
We have enough gun laws, what we need is IDIOT control.
Blood makes you related. Loyalty makes you family.
I thought getting old would take longer. :shock:
Make a checklist. One side setup , one side breakdown.
Ours had a diesel engine that I would let run for several minutes after we got to the campsite. I kept a timer in the cockpit and set it for 4 minutes to let it idle, then shut it down. That kept the oil moving in the turbo while it cooled off.