Neck Sizing vs Full Length Sizing

Big Sky Redneck

Advantages and disadvantages of either one? I resize all of mine with full length dies but I hear alot of talk about neck sizing only. What is the big advantage of neck only? Is it mainly a thing for custom chambers or will it benefit factory chambers? Will brass last longer? Will the accuracy improvment justify buying the dies or can I just run the dies I have out some? One other question, Nickel. I use alot of Nickel because it lasts along time and looks neat also, does accuracy suffer when using this type of case? I heard that the bullets get gouges in them when seating because of the inability to stretch around the bullet like plain brass.

I'm looking for ways to get better accuracy and save money on brass, is it worth it? And as far as the brass goes, who likes what and why? I try to buy Federal when possible and have good luck with it.

Has anybody used the RCBS elctronic scale and measure? Sure does look like it can make loading go faster, are they accurate and is the setup worth the $200?

Rafter-S

I've done neck sizing only by backing the (full-length resizing) die out a little...just where about 1/8" of the neck gets sized down to hold the bullet. One big advantage is the cases don't stretch and need trimming, nor do the cases wear out near as fast. But you will have to fire the neck-sized only rounds in the same gun--where they "fit" the chamber. And they will work best in a bolt action rifle--they will likely be too tight to feed reliably in a semi-auto.

My experience is: unless you are going for sub-MOA accuracy, full-length resized rounds are more practicle.

Rafter-S

On your brand of brass question: I had to experiment with several different brands to find the "best" for my rifles. When you experiment, be sure to use the same cases from the same lots...to ensure consistency. Round-to-round consistency is vital in super-accurate shooting.

I found that bullet seating was one of the more critical elements of reloading for precision accuracy. It is important to seat the bullet "straight" in the case--with minimum runout--which I could do best with an in-line seating die.

Hope this helps.

Edited by - Rafter-S on 05/12/2002 01:12:15

whiteclouder

7mm:
Forty plus years experience has shown me that necksizing is all I need to do. It makes a lot easier to load and it will extend the life of your cases. Watch your length and neck thickness and feel inside the case with a paper clip, straigntened and then bent at the very end in an 'L'. This allows you to feel the groove that will form just in front on the head. Here is where it will separate when it does, and it eventually will. I can recognize the symptons from the outside. The brass looks 'different'.

Clouder..

Pelican

I have found that because I am 6-3 but am long thru the body (only a 32" inseam) I have to go with full length sizing as in Tall sizes. If I just go with neck size the shirt won't stay tucked in.
Hope this helps.

The Almighty Himself Entrusted the Future of All Living Creatures to a Wooden Boat.- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -"Audemus jura nostra defendere"

will270win

I knew someone would do it!!!!!! Silly bird.


~Secret Select Society Of Suave Stylish Smoking Jackets~

Iconoclast

7mm - going to echo much of what has already been said. *If* you limit the neck sizing to ammo loaded for a single bolt action weapon, it *can* extend the life of your brass by a factor of "X," but "X" is also related to how hot the loads are to begin with. Even with mild loads, in time you will need to trim to length as the brass will still flow forward, albeit at a slower rate.