kgnovum,.......a moment please?

JustC

I have tried to use a friends plating/etc setup on magazines and barrels before. His is the type with electricity in the solution, and will plate in nickel, gold, brass, copper, black oxide, etc etc etc. Now, I have dipped the items in the acid, but it didn't seem to pull out the oil from the metal. The oil, had, over time, penetrated the metal and the acid just wasn't strong enough. I think it may have been diluted from many projects. Sooooo, will your product prep my surface enough to get a good contact, or are the guns which stay oiled at all times just unable to take a blue? I am hoping that your products and preparation steps would allow me to re-blue ANY GUN, no matter how much oil it has seen in it's lifetime. Am I correct? I just want something that will create a good bond and hold up. I have been impressed with the members experience thus far, and would probably go through the old beaters in the case and blue them all, just for practice. Please tell me your proceedure will give me what I want,..please please please!

A great rifle with a junk scope,....is junk.

kgnovum

This is a tough one because our blue is completely different than any other type. Most cold blues are "oxidation" type processes - actually a form of controlled rust. Some are more like paints or stains, but not many. Ours is a "bonding" process and it requires that the "pores" of the metal be free from all residues including oils, rust, etc. Without getting the old oils that have permeated into the pores out of the metal, I doubt that our blue would bond well, but I believe that you can get these out. I will suggest two methods.

1. Simply put the piece submerged in boiling soapy water for 20-30 minutes. After this, rinse it well with clear water and perhaps wipe it with alcohol. This will normally remove most oils and residues from the pores of the metal.

If this doesn't work then

2. Apply Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner gel to the surface of the metal in a thick coat. Using a propane torch or heat gun, heat the gel until it boils and let it boil for 20-30 seconds. Residues in the pores will be drawn into the gel and you will be able to tell if it is because the gel will become colored, brownish or reddish.

When using this procedure, be very careful not to overheat the metal and to remove any wood, plastic, composites, etc. and of course not to burn yourself. Also, let the metal cool back down some before applying our bluing.

Hope this helps. If you want to discuss this, please feel free to call me at my office during the day. 832-204-0866

Regards, Ken Gibbs

TOOLS1

What about hot tanking the metal parts? Most every automotive machine shop has one. I know that it does a great job on cast iron.
TOOLS

offeror

This is funny because I've been working in advertising and one of my best clients was Fort Wayne Anodizing -- probably the best if not the only hard coat aluminum anodizer in the state of Indiana. They've done parts for Mars Mission launch pads for NASA, parts for the M-16, small specialized runs for race cars. I realize it's a different kind of process you guys are talking about, but it's nice not to feel like you're talking a foreign language. By the way, I got FWA a cover story in both Automotive Finishing and Products Finishing magazines. Great color pictures of their product, too. Nothing prettier than well-finished metal parts in macro close-up on hi-res color film.

- Life NRA Member
"If cowardly & dishonorable men shoot unarmed men with army guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary...and not by general deprivation of constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878

JustC

Ken, I beleive I will order the kit and try it. I will however, be calling before I start, just to get the skinny from the man who knows the product best. I am anxiuosly awaiting my free sample of the bore cleaner you shipped out last week. I want to run several hundred rounds through a semi-auto rifle and put it to the test. I love projects and experiments, they keep me entertained for hours.

TOOLS1, I never thought of that. I might call them also to see if they have ever done it to a gun.

offeror, anodized aluminum sure is pretty metal. There is a company in the sport fishing magazines that takes Penn International Reels, You know the big gold ones you see on Marlin rods, and changes them to other colors to match your boat. They do purple, red, green, blue, silver, black, etc. Now that makes for a tricked out rod and reel combo, especially when the reels are $475-$650 each and the rods are $300 each.

A great rifle with a junk scope,....is junk.

kgnovum

JustC - Regretfully, the bore cleaner did not get shipped out until TODAY - July 31 - and I apologize for the delay. I saw them all go myself so I know they are now in the mail. Please feel free to call me any time. I'd be glad to run through the processes and give you some pointers to assure a good job first time through... KG

JustC

kg, many thanks. I will be calling as soon as I have the kit. I will practice on some old 22's that might be worth $65-$75. I have an old Noble pump 22, and an old single shot savage which the stock was cut and added to, so these will make great practice pieces.

A great rifle with a junk scope,....is junk.

firing pin

So far every one I sold a kit to realy likes how easy and the job it does.