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My dryer is too hot?

beantolebeantole Member Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭✭
edited January 2002 in General Discussion
OK, Nunn may delete this topic but my wife said to give it a try here as you guys know everything (and this is a general board)............???? OK, our Frigidare electric dryer is very, very hot to the touch and even has a small brown spot (appears to be a burn) on the backside. I can briefly touch the backside but it is too hot to keep my flesh on for more than a second or two. We have never had any problems but it is a cheap quality electric clothes dryer. Any opinions on whether this electric dryer is a fire waiting to happen? Will the breaker fuse protect us from fire? Thanks.

Comments

  • Diesel DummyDiesel Dummy Member Posts: 193 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Check your dryer vent (had a bird nest in one after a vacation). Check the vent tube and pull it loose from the dryer to see if something is plugging it up. Sounds like you got something plugging your vent somewhere - an easy way to start a fire.NO your breaker WILL NOT protect you from a fire. That old dry lint is very easy to light![This message has been edited by Diesel Dummy (edited 01-16-2002).]
  • Gordian BladeGordian Blade Member Posts: 1,202 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Same problem with our GE. We replaced the whole vent path all the way to the outer wall, didn't help. If nothing else works, load it with less stuff at a time.[This message has been edited by Gordian Blade (edited 01-16-2002).]
  • 218Beekeep218Beekeep Member Posts: 3,033
    edited November -1
    I used to be a maintainance man,does it take a long time to dry lately?Where does the vent come out,on the roof...or where?Usually they have a screen on the exhaust outled,that gets caked with lint,..it becomes restricted,and the heat cant vent(like me,sometimes)so the dryer gets hot..218
  • William81William81 Member Posts: 25,339 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Depending on the make and model of the dryer, there are at least two seperate thermostats on the heat element. It is possible that the one which controls the temp. has stopped functioning. If you are able to get to the heat element, check each thermostat with an ohm meter. If you have a faulty one, you can easily replace it.Hope this helps.....
  • bartobarto Member Posts: 4,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    if it were mine and the vent was clear, i would sh78can it.my house is worth more than the price of a dryer. barto
    the hard stuff we do right away - the impossible takes a little longer
  • beantolebeantole Member Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hey thanks guys. Looks like maybe the vent hose which runs under the house is the most likely suspect. I'll check that first and then the heat sensor if the vent hose is not plugged or restricted.
  • s.guns.gun Member Posts: 3,245
    edited November -1
    If your vent was restricted,you should also remove some panels and check for accumulated lint build-up inside. They can be a real fire hazard.
    I am confused at times.We park on driveways anddrive on parkways.
  • NateNate Member Posts: 168 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    How long is your vent?It shouldnt be more then 10 feet, and make more then 2 bends. Also is it plastic? If it is replace it at once. The old plastic ones are code violations in most places. There are ones that are made of foil that are ok, but it is best to use a solid pipe. You can get it from any HVAC shop.Also dont have any more vent back there then is needed. I have seen customers use the whole 10 feet when only 2 or 3 is needed. It just acts as a huge lint trap.If the vent pipe isnt it I would replace it. If you see burn marks it probally has hurt more then a thermostat.
  • daddodaddo Member Posts: 3,408
    edited November -1
    Your heating elements are "on" all the time due to a short in a thermostat or one of the elements broke and is shorted to ground. Your electric bill will be sky high unless you unplug it and get it fixed. The breaker will not open until the amps exceed 30 (typical size for a dryer).
  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If it is under the house and has a "droop" in it anywhere, it could also have water in it which won't allow proper air flow. Mine did that last year. It will make a Blub Blub Blub sound if you stand outside while it is running. The steam will also come out in bursts and not steady. I drained mine and secured it to the floor joists all the way to the outlet and havn't had the problem again.
  • XracerXracer Member Posts: 1,990
    edited November -1
    Hate to mention the obvious....have you cleaned the lint filter or lint trap?
  • beantolebeantole Member Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Well, I climbed into the crawl space and disconnected the plastic white 4 inch ribbed vent hose. It was about 8 feet long and did have a dip in it. No water though. It is clogged, although not totally, with lint. I am going to get a new metal vent and turn on the dryer. If it still is very hot on the backside I'm pitching the dryer. As said above..."my house is worth more than a few hundred dollars." Thanks for all the suggestions. I really like this board and all the people here who are willing to share their knowledge.
  • 218Beekeep218Beekeep Member Posts: 3,033
    edited November -1
    Don`t forget to check the end of the vent,where it blows out,it should have some type of wire mesh to keep critters out,but will need to be cleaned out every few months,as lint will cake up thick there.JustC,that reminded me of a situation with the vent pipes at a condo developement I worked at years ago.The upstairs units vented out the roof,I`d go up and clean out the wire mesh now and then...but the downstairs units had a 4"PVC pipe under the slab for about 30 ft.Every one of them sagged,were talkin` about 50 downstair condos..I had to take a 20ft hose and a 'WET VAC',and constantly vacum out about 15 gallons out of each..every week,unless the owner was at his summer home,up in the lovely Northeastern USA .218
  • john wjohn w Member Posts: 4,104
    edited November -1
    william 81 is right replace the heat sensors there is usually one up front of the tub and one near the coils. The one near the coils is usually an overheat sensor and if it is getting that hot it is not working. The sensor near the tub cycles the heat and acts as a t- stat. Just replace both switches and you will be ok will cost about 30.00 bucks for the sensors. Check the coils and make sure none are broken but with the heat you discribe that is not likely.[This message has been edited by john w (edited 01-17-2002).]
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