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Reloading Cherry

instrumentofwarinstrumentofwar Member Posts: 1,545 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited April 2002 in General Discussion
Here we go. I was counting my eggs previously, thinking I had a Rockchucker waiting in the states for me, oh well.

Anyhoo, I am still trying to get myself setup. Presently I am looking at the Lee 35th Anniversary Reloading Kit. Yes it's basic, but I am a cherry. All materials c2001 MidwayUSA, Inc.
All rights reserved.
Lee 35th Anniversary Reloading Kit

Contains:

Lee Challenger Press

Resizing Lube

Cutter & Lock Stud

Chamfer Tool

Primer Pocket Cleaner

Auto-Prime

Set of 11 Auto-Prime Shellholders

Safety Powder Scale

Perfect Powder Measure with bench stand.

Red Plastic Powder Funnel

aside from a reloading manual (several), brass, primers, powder, bullets, and dies can anybody think of anything that I will need to get the ball rolling? Granted this is, pressumably, the bare minnimum however if any of you vets know of anything that may help I'd appreciate it. Thanks again guys (and gals)

If you want my e-mail is instrumentofwar@keepandbeararms.com

Some people just shouldn't be allowed to breed

Comments

  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    A caliper to measure the lengths of cartridge cases and to properly set your bullet seater for the correct finished cartridge overall length.
    If the scale doesn't come with weights to calibrate it, it's a good idea to get some.
  • instrumentofwarinstrumentofwar Member Posts: 1,545 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Charlie & v35: Thanks. One other question. How important is it to run your brass through a tumbler?

    Some people just shouldn't be allowed to breed
  • groundhog devastationgroundhog devastation Member Posts: 4,495
    edited November -1
    I usually use a peice of steel wool and twist the case in my hand with the steel wool around the neck area of the case. Any imperfections will show up like a sore thumb on the clean brass. I don't ever tumble the brass or run it thru one of the case polishers. If cleaned(tumbled or polished) brass is more accurate than I'm getting already then I'll polish it and go to the NBRSA matches next spring!! I don't think it's a big deal. I do have a Thumbler's Tumbler if you or anyone else wants one! GHD
  • SUBMARINERSUBMARINER Member Posts: 1,362 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    brass will do ok dirty as long as it doesnt cause feed problems.get yourself a handprimer and a bullet puller

    SUBMARINE SAILOR,TRUCK DRIVER,NE'ER DO WELL, INSTIGATOR,AND RUSTY WALLACE FAN
  • sodbustersodbuster Member Posts: 2,305 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    My opinion is you need a tumbler,,,besides there is just
    something about seeing that shiny brass when you get done
    tumbling it.,, Take you time when you shake all of the
    media out of the casings,,,some of the necked down casings
    will require a lot of shaking to get it all out. You'll need
    lots of casing holders,,they are cheap and make inspection
    easier. I keep a small mag-lite on the bench to look into the
    casings before and after each step,,you'll need lots of shelf
    space around your bench,,keep the area clean and it you're not
    using it put it on the shelf,,,,you're about to have lots of fun,



    It's not the number of your stars that count,,it's the size of your moon.
  • glb243glb243 Member Posts: 49 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'll second the motion for the hand primer and bullet puller. I have a Lee Auto Prime; this will allow you to "feel" the primer as you seat it, as apposed to ramming it blindly with a press handle; also, the bullet puller is most valuable since you'll probably make mistakes like me, and want to re-do a screw up.

    Aim small...Miss small
  • IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    IoW, IMHO, the need for a tumbler or any cleaning depends primarily on the quality of your brass and the weapon(s) in which it will be used. I've worn out a lot of handgun brass which never saw a tumbler or trimmer before it retired. OTOH, when loading for a semi-auto rifle, especially, I will clean most of it as I sort it out at the beginning of the process. Depends on the tools, also. With carbide sizers, clean brass is less important than with carbon steel tooling, which is easier to damage. Some folks care a great deal about how the loads look sitting in a box, but I always have preferred my craftsmanship to show up down range.

    On your bullet puller, pick up the inertia hammer type. The collet types have their place, but only as a last resort. If the hammer doesn't work, then for sure the collet will seriously damage the bullet. Absolutely get the caliper! And not one of the plastic cheapies (if they are still made) - a simple steel vernier will meet all your needs and last a life time.
  • idsman75idsman75 Member Posts: 13,398 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    IOW--I purchased the same Anniversary kit that you speak of. I haven't started handloading yet because the only time I'm home is when I'm eating or sleeping. There are many people who will tell you that a "progressive" is the only way to go. However, most serious handloaders will have a single stage in addition to their progressive.

    I have some reloading manuals and specifically been absorbing he information from a Speer manual. It is very detailed and am learning new things every time I pick it up. However, are there any valuable videos out there that go though the process of handloading in a step-by-step fashion? It's one thing to read about it. It would be another thing to be able to watch someone do it.

    SSG idsman75, U.S. ARMY
  • Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think the NRA has a reloading video available.

    Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.
  • instrumentofwarinstrumentofwar Member Posts: 1,545 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Jerm-Are you completely set up yet? Just wondering if you've picked up any die's yet and what cal. & what do you want to add?

    Some people just shouldn't be allowed to breed
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