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Any machinists or fabricators?
firebawlp
Member Posts: 28 ✭✭
I know good tools cost big money, but I'm so sick of using junk that I am at the end of my rope here. I am looking for GOOD drill bits. The thickest steel that I work with is 1/2 inch, and the crap I'm using just isn't cutting it. Could someone please point me in the direction of a suitable brand to try. I am not a professional metalworker, but I do a considerable amount of it in my spare time.
Also, are there any acceptable drill presses for under $800
THANK YOU for any helpful input!!!
Also, are there any acceptable drill presses for under $800
THANK YOU for any helpful input!!!
Comments
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2SRHI?PMSECT=600
I don't know size/HP of drill press you are looking for, nor what you intend to do with it, BUT there are a plenty that fit in that price range.
Have you looked at JET or Ridged? OR a good D.P. at an auction from a machine shop that is closing?
Use the Drill Doctor after every 20 or so holes. The drills will last your lifetime, unless of course you break them.
These work well in everything you are likely to encounter.
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
Don't forget that proper application is very important in the life of drill bits. Proper drill speed, use of oils etc.
Yep speed and lube. Almost sounds dirty.
Something I found at work. If using a hand drill I use T-4(Short) drills longer bits flex enought they do not cut well and wear out fast.
Also pre drill such as a 1/4 drill then step up to 1/2. Especially if using a hand drill.
In a Press I use the longer Bits, they are easier to work with when using fixtures to hold what you are drilling.
[;)]!
but i feel it truns too fast. Its on the slowest setting it still truns 260 or 280. i can't really remember, but i know its less the 300 rpm's. I like it, i just wish it would turn slower.
If you're hand drilling rather than machine drilling (milling machine or drill press) most drills are damaged along the margin or land of the drill because it's hard to keep the drill perpendicular to the hole with a hand drill. In these cases, nothing will help except using a machine to do the drilling.
OSG has increased our production and reduced our tooling cost greatly!
Drop me an email and I can send you a feed and speed spreadsheet I made for OSG drills.
OSG premium cobalt (powder metalergy) drill bits. They have one coating for stainless (AlNi = Aluminum Nitride), and TiN (=Titanium Nitride)for carbon steel. Tool life (if you use proper feeds and speeds) jumped from 4 holes with HSS to 80 holes in 718 Inconel. They cost more, but last so much longer, they are cheaper in the long run.
If you're hand drilling rather than machine drilling (milling machine or drill press) most drills are damaged along the margin or land of the drill because it's hard to keep the drill perpendicular to the hole with a hand drill. In these cases, nothing will help except using a machine to do the drilling.
OSG has increased our production and reduced our tooling cost greatly!
Drop me an email and I can send you a feed and speed spreadsheet I made for OSG drills.
Heff these are super high end....I brought these into our shop when I worked in the tool crib...
From what I get from the post, these would be severe overkill...
And I really don't see these as being practical in a $800 drill press!!!
Heff these are super high end....I brought these into our shop when I worked in the tool crib...
From what I get from the post, these would be severe overkill...
And I really don't see these as being practical in a $800 drill press!!!
It's not what machine you run them in, it's what materials you cut with them and tool life. An $800 drill press can drill just as good of a hole as a $1,000,000 CNC Machining Center as long as you use the correct feed and speed.
We send these tools back to OSG for regrind and recoat, and they last forever. Regrind and recoat is a very small fee, but you get the equaliviant of a new tool back for a fraction of the cost.
Yes, they are high end, but depending on what he's cutting, they are cheaper to use in the long run.
There is also AlTiN (Aluminum-Titanium Nitride), TiC (Titanium Carbide) TiC-TiN, B4C (Boron Carbide), TiCN (Titanium CarboNitride), CrN (Chromimun Nitride), MosT (layered Moly-di-Sulfide & Titanium), multi-layer combination coatings and a whole host of other coatings.
You can contact one of our customer service reps for more application specific information www.ionbond.com (the plant I work in does mainly stamping & forming tools, and a few speciality cutters like gear hobs and broachs)
D Heff
There is also AlTiN (Aluminum-Titanium Nitride), TiC (Titanium Carbide) TiC-TiN, B4C (Boron Carbide), TiCN (Titanium CarboNitride), CrN (Chromimun Nitride), MosT (layered Moly-di-Sulfide & Titanium), multi-layer combination coatings and a whole host of other coatings.
You can contact one of our customer service reps for more application specific information www.ionbond.com (the plant I work in does mainly stamping & forming tools, and a few speciality cutters like gear hobs and broachs)
Yep, the different coatings apply to the type of material you're cutting. We've also have very good luck with the TiCN coating in High Nickel and percipition hardening stainless.