In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

question for the mechanic's

hk-91hk-91 Member Posts: 10,050
edited November 2008 in General Discussion
I have a 83 silverado with a 350 in it. problem is it runs good but after driving for awhile 10 to 20 miles it will drain the battery. I had the battery checked and it checks out ok. I put a volt meter on it while its running and it shows 14.6 volts so the alternater should be charging. If i charge the battery up it runs good just cant shut it off or it wont restart again later.
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • UNIVERSITY50UNIVERSITY50 Member Posts: 1,705 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It may be back feeding thu the alternator. The diode in the voltage reg. may be bad. You use to be able to buy just the reg. and split the Alt. open and replace just the voltage reg. I think it is cheaper now to just replace the whole Alt.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • grumpygygrumpygy Member Posts: 48,464 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Take it to a place that sell just batteries. Have them put your alt on the test machine, also double check the battery just cause it shows 12 volts does not mean much. Will it take a drain, a shop can put it under a load and tell if it is working.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • hk-91hk-91 Member Posts: 10,050
    edited November -1
    I took the battery to napa and they checked it out and said it was good. but the just hooked it up to what looked like a over sized volt meter. I was going to have napa check the alternator also but the guy that does that wasnt in today. but i figured sence it showed 14.6 volts that it was working. I didnt know it could back feed into the alt and not charge the battery.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • n/an/a Member Posts: 168,427 ✭
    edited November -1
    It could also be a starter and/or solinoid.

    If Alt. and Batt. check out fine it almost has to be there.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • SpartacusSpartacus Member Posts: 14,415
    edited November -1
    quote:It could also be a starter and/or solinoid

    how do they fit in here? (honest question)
    tom
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • UNIVERSITY50UNIVERSITY50 Member Posts: 1,705 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    After driving it is the battery actually DEAD. If not it could be the solinoid or starter. Check the solinoid to see if the plastic on the front is burned and if it has a heat shield protecting it from the exhuast pipe.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • n/an/a Member Posts: 168,427 ✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by tplumeri
    quote:It could also be a starter and/or solinoid

    how do they fit in here? (honest question)
    tom
    If it is a matter of not starting after driving for awhile and needs to be jump started and the alt. and battery are both good then the starter has to be it unless there is a short causeing a drain some where.

    I just went through it with my bronco a couple months ago. Battery and alt. were both new but from time to time it would not start acting just like a dead battery. I replaced the starter and all was fine again.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • scrumpyjackscrumpyjack Member Posts: 5,336 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    On a 1983 you shouldn't have to worry about a computer. Once you get it started and running, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. This will have the vehicle running solely from the alternator. If the engine dies, your alternator is bad.

    Have them load test the alternator.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • dcon12dcon12 Member Posts: 32,038 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Gas is cheap, leave the damn thing running. Don
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • SpartacusSpartacus Member Posts: 14,415
    edited November -1
    thanks. now i understand.
    Is the battery really dead?
    if not, then what * says is true . OR the engine timing could be too far advanced causing dead battery sound when the engine is hot.
    but if i were a betting man, I'd bet on the alternator/regulator.
    tom
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 1911a1-fan1911a1-fan Member Posts: 51,193 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    good advice from everyone above, you just have to narrow it down by process of elimination

    you may also have something grounding out, my son got his radio stolen, and had the same problem with one of the positive wires touching that he ignored, it doesn't take as much as you think to drain a battery a little at a time
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • savage170savage170 Member Posts: 37,569 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If battery and alt check out it might be the cables they might be corroded or if they are oil soaked they won't carry the amps to the starter
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • rollnblockrollnblock Member Posts: 384 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    gm has three diodes in their alternators. if one goes out you still get 14... something volts. forget the volts. its the amps that charge the battery. your not getting any amps. change the alternator. end of story....
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • hk-91hk-91 Member Posts: 10,050
    edited November -1
    i started the truck and took neg cable off the battery and it kept running. It does start again if the battery is hooked up to a charger. It tries to start but just slowly turns over and quits so i'm pretty sure the battery is getting drained while driving. I did notice today if the battery is two low that the starter will keep turning even when the key is shut off. but only does it when the battery is two low to start the truck.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • grumpygygrumpygy Member Posts: 48,464 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    *_r_done Got me thinking since it is an older truck does it have headers.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • ForkliftkingForkliftking Member Posts: 4,907 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by savage170
    If battery and alt check out it might be the cables they might be corroded or if they are oil soaked they won't carry the amps to the starter

    +1
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • scrumpyjackscrumpyjack Member Posts: 5,336 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Alternator should still be load tested, but after what you've checked...replace the positive cable (red) from battery to starter.

    Does the solenoid just chatter sometimes? If so, I used to just rotate the plate inside the solenoid and get a couple more years out of it. A remanufactured starter for that should be ~ $35 with a $15-$20 core charge. Might be best off to just replace the cable and the starter.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • minitruck83minitruck83 Member Posts: 5,369
    edited November -1
    Does kinda sound like the starter's draggin.

    I'd check the cables also.



    Allen
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Wehrmacht_45Wehrmacht_45 Member Posts: 3,377
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by scrumpyjack
    On a 1983 you shouldn't have to worry about a computer. Once you get it started and running, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. This will have the vehicle running solely from the alternator. If the engine dies, your alternator is bad.

    Have them load test the alternator.


    Gm started putting computers in vehicles in 1981
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • bartobarto Member Posts: 4,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Only computer in my 82 flatbed is me when I get behind the wheel.
    (one of those old dinosaur computers)
    [:p]barto[:p]
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
Sign In or Register to comment.