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Bullet Puller

Dave3Dave3 Member Posts: 106 ✭✭
edited December 2001 in General Discussion
Was loading some .310 cadet and seated the bullets
too deep. So this is what I came up with. 1/2"
copper pipe 14" long (handle) 1/2" copper tee.
1/2" copper pipe 3" long,1/2" copper end cap.
Rubber from inner tube, zip tie. place bullet
in shell holder,secure with band,rap sharply.
Saved me 19.95.
bulletpuller1.jpg
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Comments

  • Dave3Dave3 Member Posts: 106 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just got my bullet puller and am now wondering how long and how hard do I have to beat this thing? I'm a carpenter and know how to swing a hammer but these bullets are not moving.
    "Protect the Right to Protect yourself"
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  • oneshyoneshy Member Posts: 417 ✭
    edited November -1
    Even with factory ammo 3 pops is usually enough for a really tough one. The swing should be more of a wrist pop rather than a forearm slam. Using the wrist more seems to increase velocity of the strike. Also, if you are not using the proper insert for the caliber you will not get a firm seat. [This message has been edited by oneshy (edited 12-28-2001).]
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  • arthur wellingarthur welling Member Posts: 66 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Depends on bullet mass, neck tension, age, crimp, etc.My Kinetic puller (Smack smack smack)does a fair job. Sometimes I have to rap it HARD to get an older larger bullet out of a long necked case. A freshly loaded round on clean brass with no crimp? A light rap usually does it.Older military stuff? Easier to just shoot it!
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  • robsgunsrobsguns Member Posts: 4,581 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think I've got the same puller as you guys, green hammer, kinetic puller. One thing for sure is, when you strike the surface, make sure its a surface that is hard, wood doesnt work, I take it outside and strike it on a piece of 3/8" steel or the smooth surface of our concrete steps, works like a charm.
    SSgt Ryan E. Roberts, USMC
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  • IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The kinetic hammers work well for most ammo. One thing, if you have soft nose ammo, a series of taps works best IMHO because you don't want to mash that point when it lets go. Usually I find the right sequence for a given batch and go from there, with the last one just hard enough to drop the slug. As someone else noted, metal or a similar hard surface is necessary. If you have some military ammo with hardened water proofing in the neck, a true bullet puller is needed; RCBS makes a good one, but it is slow & can mash the bullets. I have one I use for special circumstances.
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  • COWBOYKIDDCOWBOYKIDD Member Posts: 239 ✭
    edited November -1
    I reload alot and use a kinetic puller when things dont go as planned. I use a small peice of foam in the end to protect the bullet. Yes dont be afraid to hammer it hard. I have and it still is as new except for some scratches.
    Politicians Love Gun Control / China Has Gun Control
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  • .250Savage.250Savage Member Posts: 812 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    One aspect no one else has touched on: are you are trying to strip down surplus military stuff? These have the bullets sealed in the neck with asphaltum, and you will probably wear your arm out before you dislodge these. The trick: put them in your seater die, and adjust it just enough to bump the bullet a little deeper. This breaks the seal, and now you can strip them as per always. Theoretically, should work on crimped ammo also.
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  • kimberkidkimberkid Member Posts: 8,858 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    When I have a lot of bullets to pull, I just use an RCBS bullet puller in my single stage press ... they cost about $15 then collets for different caliburs run $6-$10 ... much faster and not anywhere near as messy or noisey! I can pull about 100 rounds of Turkish 8mm in 30 minutes, and not near the mess of having to fish out my bullets mixed with powder.
    GUN CONTROL: If you're not outraged, you're not paying attention!kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com
    If you really desire something, you'll find a way ?
    ? otherwise, you'll find an excuse.
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  • Dave3Dave3 Member Posts: 106 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm trying to "pull" anosler balistic tip out of brand new 243 brass (bullet seated way to deep). It was the first two, I would have thought dies would be close from factory these defenitly where not.
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  • Dave3Dave3 Member Posts: 106 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Oak End Grain, darn thing popped right out.
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  • 7mm_ultra_mag_is_king7mm_ultra_mag_is_king Member Posts: 676 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    New dies will not be close. Best thing to do till you get the hang of it is to back the seater plug out the whole way, take a factory round place it on the ram and raise it up. Take the seater plug and screw it down till it touches the bullet.Now back the seater plug out atleast 4 full turns and finger tighten the lock nut. I always make a dummy round, what I do is take a sized and non primed case and seat a bullet in it. Now take the dummy and place it in the rifle, if the bolt dont close take the dummy and reseat it after turning the seater plug 1/2 turn, watch for rifeling marks on the bullet(use a marker to "paint" the bullet each time you place it in the gun). keep repeating the steps untill you reach desired depths. others may not agree with me on this but I seat mine where the bullet just hits the rifeling then set my seater plug 1/2 turn and lock it down.it takes about 5 minutes to set the die.
    when all else fails........................
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