In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
HVAC question.
Rocklobster
Member Posts: 7,060 ✭
We have a new Trane 4-ton heat pump, 13 SEER, total electric home.
Considering a backup generator around here, need to determine what capacity will suffice.
We figure that we'll be in "survival mode" in the event of a power outage - essential appliances are the HVAC system, fridge, well pump, and perhaps a few lights and/or computer and TV to get local weather reports. The water heater will be turned off, no stove use, maybe a microwave dinner or two.
To the question: "ballpark" figure, if it's really cold outside and the heat pump is running and the system goes into "auxiliary" mode and the heat strips crank up, how much current draw can be expected?
Thanks!
Considering a backup generator around here, need to determine what capacity will suffice.
We figure that we'll be in "survival mode" in the event of a power outage - essential appliances are the HVAC system, fridge, well pump, and perhaps a few lights and/or computer and TV to get local weather reports. The water heater will be turned off, no stove use, maybe a microwave dinner or two.
To the question: "ballpark" figure, if it's really cold outside and the heat pump is running and the system goes into "auxiliary" mode and the heat strips crank up, how much current draw can be expected?
Thanks!
Comments
Well pump, Heater/AC, Hot water heater, lights and everything else.
Mine is run by a Kohler 25 hp running on propane.
The only difference is I have a heat pump also but I have a duel fuel system so when temps outside get below about 38 or so my system switches to propane heat.
Example, you have a 50 amp 220 volt circuit: 50 X 220 = 11,000 watts.
I would then oversize my generator by a minimum of 20% so the thing is not running at maximum capacity all the time. 30% oversize would be better, it would allow you to throw in another circuit or two that you decided you needed.
Assuming off grid there are factors which can't be ignored. No matter what fuel your genset may be using the thermal efficiency of an internal combustion engine will hover at about 25% +/-. This means that 75% of the fuel being used is being wasted before we generate any electrical current at all. Next is generator inefficiency followed by line losses. Add these losses and they don't bode well for any long term use.
Bottom line here is that no matter how you cut it you'll pay a lot for a little. Even if you can justify the initial cost of a big enough genset the losses will be so great as to make the project impractical. I'd guess about 10% efficiency between the genset and your heating elements.
Much better over an extended emergency, though less attractive, would be either a vented or unvented gas heater. Better yet a standby gas furnace or boiler. A small genset could easily supply enough power for a blower or circulator along with supplying basic electrical needs.
The same may be applied to summer conditions where a portable a/c unit would keep a room or two comfortable. Certainly not a situation you might wish for but you'd still retain the basics.
No matter what, any genset is inefficient. Converting fuel energy to mechanical energy then to electrical energy is nothing but a string of losses. This is something we accept in emergency situations. It's best approached not as an alternative to normal energy use but as an approach to remaining somewhat comfortable under adverse temporary conditions. Thus a small genset and extreme energy management... Unless you happen to be Al Gore.
Cant even give you a ballpark figure without knowing what the rated output watts are for the heat pump. For it may have a 1500 watt element or a 5000 watt one. Big difference when choosing a generator to run it.
Best advice is to contact a generator salesman/installer and have them do an inspection for a who;e house system. If they come back saying that you can get by with a 8Kw set. Go bigger by at least 1 1/2 times (12Kw). Going that route you will have a generator that is not working itself to a quick death plus you will have plenty of power for for any add ons later if needed.
In a way the question is invalid. The reason being that energy conversion losses will be astronomical...
Assuming off grid there are factors which can't be ignored. No matter what fuel your genset may be using the thermal efficiency of an internal combustion engine will hover at about 25% +/-. This means that 75% of the fuel being used is being wasted before we generate any electrical current at all. Next is generator inefficiency followed by line losses. Add these losses and they don't bode well for any long term use.
Bottom line here is that no matter how you cut it you'll pay a lot for a little. Even if you can justify the initial cost of a big enough genset the losses will be so great as to make the project impractical. I'd guess about 10% efficiency between the genset and your heating elements.
Much better over an extended emergency, though less attractive, would be either a vented or unvented gas heater. Better yet a standby gas furnace or boiler. A small genset could easily supply enough power for a blower or circulator along with supplying basic electrical needs.
The same may be applied to summer conditions where a portable a/c unit would keep a room or two comfortable. Certainly not a situation you might wish for but you'd still retain the basics.
No matter what, any genset is inefficient. Converting fuel energy to mechanical energy then to electrical energy is nothing but a string of losses. This is something we accept in emergency situations. It's best approached not as an alternative to normal energy use but as an approach to remaining somewhat comfortable under adverse temporary conditions. Thus a small genset and extreme energy management... Unless you happen to be Al Gore.
Damn, why do people even post crap like this. I don't think the OP is up for schooling from you on the efficiency loss of fuel powered generating systems. ALL he asked about was sizing an engine powered generator(which thousands of people across this country successfully do)to operate his home in an emergency situation. I am becoming very weary with this site, and crack pipe nonsense like the above is one of the main reasons.
Marc or Oakie will know for sure.
Sorry to offend your delicate sensibilities. I'll try to be more sensitive next time around. And if you can't in the future stand to absorb an honest alternative opinion to what may not be a very good idea, then perhaps another site may suite you better.
Note as I did that the question posed by the OP has been addressed. Given this fact I find it always to be a good idea to at least suggest alternatives to be taken or discarded as seen fit. You obviously disagree.
HPD,
Sorry to offend your delicate sensibilities. I'll try to be more sensitive next time around. And if you can't in the future stand to absorb an honest alternative opinion to what may not be a very good idea, then perhaps another site may suite you better.
Note as I did that the question posed by the OP has been addressed. Given this fact I find it always to be a good idea to at least suggest alternatives to be taken or discarded as seen fit. You obviously disagree.
[:)]. One could get some 15 amp extention cord and run them oil filled electric portable 100 heaters. A couple of those will defineatly keep a home warm if some rooms are shut off. A portable generator will handle that along with a cord to the refrig.
You obviously disagree.
Yeah, I disagree that people always are just begging for somebody's "better idea". Why can't people just post answers to the guy's question? I'm sure if he wanted other opinions, he would have stated so. Oh btw, suggesting the guy buy a gas furnace, and plumb it into his house brilliant !
quote:nord Posted
. And if you can't in the future stand to absorb an honest alternative opinion to what may not be a very good idea
So getting up himself a standby generator may not be a good idea? I'll bet he's glad you offered up that pearl.
Go open the cover of your breaker panel. Decide which circuits you want to operate. Make a list with the amp ratings on those circuit breakers. Make 2 columns on the list keeping 120 volt circuits in one, and 220 volt circuits in the other. Add the amp ratings in each separate column and multiply that sum by the voltage for that column. This will give the watt requirments, so add the watt rating totals from the two columns to get total watts needed.
Example, you have a 50 amp 220 volt circuit: 50 X 220 = 11,000 watts.
I would then oversize my generator by a minimum of 20% so the thing is not running at maximum capacity all the time. 30% oversize would be better, it would allow you to throw in another circuit or two that you decided you needed.
Yours is the best answer so far. My training was in electronics, have a great deal of experience in low-voltage DC circuitry; not so much in high-voltage AC, but E=IR is the same, as is P=IE.
It's my understanding that typical circuit breakers are set 20% above the expected max current draw, so wouldn't your calculations be 20% high?
At any rate, our system is on a dual 60-amp breaker, so that tells me that I'm looking at 100A max between the heat pump and air handler. I can't believe that the thing is using anything like that consistently, because our bill was less than $300 during the coldest months this year. That's fairly low when you consider that everything is electric here! The water heater by itself uses 4000W, well pump around 2000W. Of course, neither is continuous.
It was hard to get a concrete answer out of the kid that installed the system. I believe he didn't know. It's hard to believe he could work in an electrical business without knowing the power requirements of his product, but it seems so. He did say that he thought the strips would draw about 40A. That's 8800W in addition to whatever the heat pump is using.
If that's accurate, I'm thinking a 13.5KW generator will work OK as long as we adhere to my above "survival mode." Am I close?
Heck, I worked at a remote work station where ALL the electrical power was generated by several large diesel generators. Every day they were shut down for 10 to 30 min, for switch over and/or repair. Other than that, the only hiccup was that the power wasn't regulated very well and it made electric clocks run a little off (sometimes fast, sometimes slow).
Had been that way for years before I got there in 1993, and I suspect it's still the system being used now.
So, I can't see the need for complicated boiler systems and what not, even if more efficient.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
http://www.generac.com/for-homeowners/home-backup-power/build-your-generator
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/stories/596-How-to-Determine-Which-Size-Generator-You-Need.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw876oBRCYr86w6KGfpkgSJAACIidw-S9wi50kW6nTZAwSuqOcLB1dZJ_dXyT5UW28UpTNdhoCPpHw_wcB
If we used conversion calculations to decide issues, no one would drive a car. It just turns out that even given the operational inefficiencies, it beats walking.
HPD provides a very good explanation for how to size a generator for backup needs.
It will power an avenge size house on a MANAGED SYSTEM LAYOUT.
Which means you ain't gonna use your dishwasher, heaters, stove,
electric water heater, at the same time.
The more you are willing to use common sense, when and how many items you use at once will allow you to downsize the genset.
You can get a 22kw generac for about $5000.
It will power an avenge size house on a MANAGED SYSTEM LAYOUT.
Which means you ain't gonna use your dishwasher, heaters, stove,
electric water heater, at the same time.
The more you are willing to use common sense, when and how many items you use at once will allow you to downsize the genset.
My most popular model right now. Ordered 3 last week for customers. They also come with a 200amp service entrance automatic disconnect switch for $5,479.40
If that's accurate, I'm thinking a 13.5KW generator will work OK as long as we adhere to my above "survival mode." Am I close?
I don't really know how those heat pump systems work. Apparently they have multiple heating elements? If so, do they all run at once, or depending on temp, or thermostst setting, do just some of them run? If the thing is capable of pulling 100 amps, even if just momentarily, you need a generator that can handle that load. 100 amps x 220 volts is 22,000 watts, or 22KW. I think if I had a setup like that I would shoot for a 25KW generator. Even at that, you won't have a lot of "extra". You will need to keep all the other stuff shut off, especially the automatic start stuff like your well pump, fridges, and freezers, etc. Your well pump will pull about twice the rated current while it is starting, and until the motor gets spun up. So if your heat happened to be running on high, and your well pump decides to start, your system will go into overload. This will cause a drop in voltage, and low voltage can damage, or destroy the pump motor. At 13.5KW, you're at just over half of what the heat pump system can draw, and I don't think it would turn out good. Just my thoughts on it anyway.
Go open the cover of your breaker panel. Decide which circuits you want to operate. Make a list with the amp ratings on those circuit breakers. Make 2 columns on the list keeping 120 volt circuits in one, and 220 volt circuits in the other. Add the amp ratings in each separate column and multiply that sum by the voltage for that column. This will give the watt requirments, so add the watt rating totals from the two columns to get total watts needed.
Example, you have a 50 amp 220 volt circuit: 50 X 220 = 11,000 watts.
I would then oversize my generator by a minimum of 20% so the thing is not running at maximum capacity all the time. 30% oversize would be better, it would allow you to throw in another circuit or two that you decided you needed.
That is how I figured my generator need. I went with +20%. Plus when running the generator you have to manage what gets turned on. You are not going to run the heat, washing machine and dryer all at the same time with all the lights on and TV going.
One other thing I did was I don't have an automatic switch. That would have cost about 1L more at the time and I figured I can switch it over when I need it. The only problem is I didn't know when the power was back on. Not really a big deal I just check it every once in a while or call the guy down the road.
quote:Originally posted by Horse Plains Drifter
quote:Originally posted by Rocklobster
If that's accurate, I'm thinking a 13.5KW generator will work OK as long as we adhere to my above "survival mode." Am I close?
I don't really know how those heat pump systems work. Apparently they have multiple heating elements? If so, do they all run at once, or depending on temp, or thermostst setting, do just some of them run? If the thing is capable of pulling 100 amps, even if just momentarily, you need a generator that can handle that load. 100 amps x 220 volts is 22,000 watts, or 22KW. I think if I had a setup like that I would shoot for a 25KW generator. Even at that, you won't have a lot of "extra". You will need to keep all the other stuff shut off, especially the automatic start stuff like your well pump, fridges, and freezers, etc. Your well pump will pull about twice the rated current while it is starting, and until the motor gets spun up. So if your heat happened to be running on high, and your well pump decides to start, your system will go into overload. This will cause a drop in voltage, and low voltage can damage, or destroy the pump motor. At 13.5KW, you're at just over half of what the heat pump system can draw, and I don't think it would turn out good. Just my thoughts on it anyway.
At the risk of offending once again, I do know how a heat pump works...
Take your window a/c unit or electric refrigerator. A compressor compresses the gaseous coolant ( R-22, R-213, or the freon currently in use.) The compressed coolant is passed over or through a condenser where it sheds heat to the point where it becomes liquid.
Liquid coolant is then pumped to an evaporator coil wherein it literally boils and is returned to a gaseous state. This process absorbs heat and is the basis for mechanical refrigeration.
The heat pump is as noted above an a/c unit turned backwards. The more heat in the ambient air, the more heat available to be absorbed and transferred into an area needing it. Problems arise when ambient temps dip significantly as there is much less heat available in cold air than in warm air. Thus the heat pump will work harder and harder to transfer what heat is available as temps dip into and below the freezing range.
We offset this problem by augmenting the available heat to the pump. Usually this is done with an electric coil or coils. In very cold conditions the pump will rely nearly 100% on the aux heat. This takes a rather efficient machine to a totally inefficient machine by virtue of the fact that there is little or no natural heat to transfer.
My point and the point that evidently offended your sensibilities was not to tell anyone what to do. Certainly a big enough genset will nicely power a heat pump. Fact is, the size or genset capacity question has been covered. It will work! I have no problem with that as long as the user or potential user is aware of the facts.
I, however, question the economy of shedding about 90% of the energy contained in fuel directly into the atmosphere before a single BTU is transferred to the area desired. This especially during times of disaster when every bit of fuel becomes precious. It makes no sense unless limitless quantities of fuel are available.
I have no stake in this matter and not a care as to the solution arrived at. I can say, though, that a gas furnace operating at 95% efficiency and drawing very little electricity might be infinitely better than the proposed solution... And much cheaper! This would allow implementation of a much smaller genset with a resulting use of far less fuel and much better conservation of the fuel on hand.
But what do I know? I'm just a simple uneducated country boy barely able to read or write. My advice would be to ignore me. Never allow the facts to get in one's way when a plan is afoot.
HPD,
At the risk of offending once again, I do know how a heat pump works...
Take your window a/c unit or electric refrigerator. A compressor compresses the gaseous coolant ( R-22, R-213, or the freon currently in use.) The compressed coolant is passed over or through a condenser where it sheds heat to the point where it becomes liquid.
Liquid coolant is then pumped to an evaporator coil wherein it literally boils and is returned to a gaseous state. This process absorbs heat and is the basis for mechanical refrigeration.
The heat pump is as noted above an a/c unit turned backwards. The more heat in the ambient air, the more heat available to be absorbed and transferred into an area needing it. Problems arise when ambient temps dip significantly as there is much less heat available in cold air than in warm air. Thus the heat pump will work harder and harder to transfer what heat is available as temps dip into and below the freezing range.
We offset this problem by augmenting the available heat to the pump. Usually this is done with an electric coil or coils. In very cold conditions the pump will rely nearly 100% on the aux heat. This takes a rather efficient machine to a totally inefficient machine by virtue of the fact that there is little or no natural heat to transfer.
My point and the point that evidently offended your sensibilities was not to tell anyone what to do. Certainly a big enough genset will nicely power a heat pump. Fact is, the size or genset capacity question has been covered. It will work! I have no problem with that as long as the user or potential user is aware of the facts.
I, however, question the economy of shedding about 90% of the energy contained in fuel directly into the atmosphere before a single BTU is transferred to the area desired. This especially during times of disaster when every bit of fuel becomes precious. It makes no sense unless limitless quantities of fuel are available.
I have no stake in this matter and not a care as to the solution arrived at. I can say, though, that a gas furnace operating at 95% efficiency and drawing very little electricity might be infinitely better than the proposed solution... And much cheaper! This would allow implementation of a much smaller genset with a resulting use of far less fuel and much better conservation of the fuel on hand.
But what do I know? I'm just a simple uneducated country boy barely able to read or write. My advice would be to ignore me. Never allow the facts to get in one's way when a plan is afoot.
Good Explanation. Our Heat Pump is very efficient and the Heat Strips for aux. heat do not come on unless it gets down below 18-20 degree.That would be cold for South Carolina. They did work for about 2 day this winter.
, I do know how a heat pump works...
Oh good, but too damn bad none of what you just posted helps the OP along the road to sizing his generator one bit.
You keep harping about the gas furnace.....Don't you suppose if the guy wanted one he would already have one? Where is the efficiency of ripping out a newly installed heat unit, and hauling it to the dump, and putting in a more efficient gas one? Ya better tell him about gas lights too.
BTW, sorry to break your heart, but you're not offending me. You are just acting in a utterly ridiculous fashion like some posters on here just HAVE to do. If you can't help the guy answer his question, why even post on his topic?
Now a water source heat pump is the bomb in my opinion. Here in SC you would have 50 ish degree water year round, easier to transfer heat to and from.
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
quote:Originally posted by nord
HPD,
At the risk of offending once again, I do know how a heat pump works...
Take your window a/c unit or electric refrigerator. A compressor compresses the gaseous coolant ( R-22, R-213, or the freon currently in use.) The compressed coolant is passed over or through a condenser where it sheds heat to the point where it becomes liquid.
Liquid coolant is then pumped to an evaporator coil wherein it literally boils and is returned to a gaseous state. This process absorbs heat and is the basis for mechanical refrigeration.
The heat pump is as noted above an a/c unit turned backwards. The more heat in the ambient air, the more heat available to be absorbed and transferred into an area needing it. Problems arise when ambient temps dip significantly as there is much less heat available in cold air than in warm air. Thus the heat pump will work harder and harder to transfer what heat is available as temps dip into and below the freezing range.
We offset this problem by augmenting the available heat to the pump. Usually this is done with an electric coil or coils. In very cold conditions the pump will rely nearly 100% on the aux heat. This takes a rather efficient machine to a totally inefficient machine by virtue of the fact that there is little or no natural heat to transfer.
My point and the point that evidently offended your sensibilities was not to tell anyone what to do. Certainly a big enough genset will nicely power a heat pump. Fact is, the size or genset capacity question has been covered. It will work! I have no problem with that as long as the user or potential user is aware of the facts.
I, however, question the economy of shedding about 90% of the energy contained in fuel directly into the atmosphere before a single BTU is transferred to the area desired. This especially during times of disaster when every bit of fuel becomes precious. It makes no sense unless limitless quantities of fuel are available.
I have no stake in this matter and not a care as to the solution arrived at. I can say, though, that a gas furnace operating at 95% efficiency and drawing very little electricity might be infinitely better than the proposed solution... And much cheaper! This would allow implementation of a much smaller genset with a resulting use of far less fuel and much better conservation of the fuel on hand.
But what do I know? I'm just a simple uneducated country boy barely able to read or write. My advice would be to ignore me. Never allow the facts to get in one's way when a plan is afoot.
Good Explanation. Our Heat Pump is very efficient and the Heat Strips for aux. heat do not come on unless it gets down below 18-20 degree.That would be cold for South Carolina. They did work for about 2 day this winter.
While there is heat even in 0 degree F air, air source heat pumps that I'm familiar with are very inefficient at getting it moved. Some methods of economizing, but I would also guess those heat strips may come on while the unit is switched into hot gas defrost as essentially it has returned to a regular air conditioner.
Now a water source heat pump is the bomb in my opinion. Here in SC you would have 50 ish degree water year round, easier to transfer heat to and from.
quote:Originally posted by select-fire
quote:Originally posted by nord
HPD,
At the risk of offending once again, I do know how a heat pump works...
Take your window a/c unit or electric refrigerator. A compressor compresses the gaseous coolant ( R-22, R-213, or the freon currently in use.) The compressed coolant is passed over or through a condenser where it sheds heat to the point where it becomes liquid.
Liquid coolant is then pumped to an evaporator coil wherein it literally boils and is returned to a gaseous state. This process absorbs heat and is the basis for mechanical refrigeration.
The heat pump is as noted above an a/c unit turned backwards. The more heat in the ambient air, the more heat available to be absorbed and transferred into an area needing it. Problems arise when ambient temps dip significantly as there is much less heat available in cold air than in warm air. Thus the heat pump will work harder and harder to transfer what heat is available as temps dip into and below the freezing range.
We offset this problem by augmenting the available heat to the pump. Usually this is done with an electric coil or coils. In very cold conditions the pump will rely nearly 100% on the aux heat. This takes a rather efficient machine to a totally inefficient machine by virtue of the fact that there is little or no natural heat to transfer.
My point and the point that evidently offended your sensibilities was not to tell anyone what to do. Certainly a big enough genset will nicely power a heat pump. Fact is, the size or genset capacity question has been covered. It will work! I have no problem with that as long as the user or potential user is aware of the facts.
I, however, question the economy of shedding about 90% of the energy contained in fuel directly into the atmosphere before a single BTU is transferred to the area desired. This especially during times of disaster when every bit of fuel becomes precious. It makes no sense unless limitless quantities of fuel are available.
I have no stake in this matter and not a care as to the solution arrived at. I can say, though, that a gas furnace operating at 95% efficiency and drawing very little electricity might be infinitely better than the proposed solution... And much cheaper! This would allow implementation of a much smaller genset with a resulting use of far less fuel and much better conservation of the fuel on hand.
But what do I know? I'm just a simple uneducated country boy barely able to read or write. My advice would be to ignore me. Never allow the facts to get in one's way when a plan is afoot.
Good Explanation. Our Heat Pump is very efficient and the Heat Strips for aux. heat do not come on unless it gets down below 18-20 degree.That would be cold for South Carolina. They did work for about 2 day this winter.
Strips only come on if Emergency heat is needed. Heat or air conditioning our bills are usually the same.
HPD,
At the risk of offending once again, I do know how a heat pump works...
Take your window a/c unit or electric refrigerator. A compressor compresses the gaseous coolant ( R-22, R-213, or the freon currently in use.) The compressed coolant is passed over or through a condenser where it sheds heat to the point where it becomes liquid.
Liquid coolant is then pumped to an evaporator coil wherein it literally boils and is returned to a gaseous state. This process absorbs heat and is the basis for mechanical refrigeration.
The heat pump is as noted above an a/c unit turned backwards. The more heat in the ambient air, the more heat available to be absorbed and transferred into an area needing it. Problems arise when ambient temps dip significantly as there is much less heat available in cold air than in warm air. Thus the heat pump will work harder and harder to transfer what heat is available as temps dip into and below the freezing range.
We offset this problem by augmenting the available heat to the pump. Usually this is done with an electric coil or coils. In very cold conditions the pump will rely nearly 100% on the aux heat. This takes a rather efficient machine to a totally inefficient machine by virtue of the fact that there is little or no natural heat to transfer.
My point and the point that evidently offended your sensibilities was not to tell anyone what to do. Certainly a big enough genset will nicely power a heat pump. Fact is, the size or genset capacity question has been covered. It will work! I have no problem with that as long as the user or potential user is aware of the facts.
I, however, question the economy of shedding about 90% of the energy contained in fuel directly into the atmosphere before a single BTU is transferred to the area desired. This especially during times of disaster when every bit of fuel becomes precious. It makes no sense unless limitless quantities of fuel are available.
I have no stake in this matter and not a care as to the solution arrived at. I can say, though, that a gas furnace operating at 95% efficiency and drawing very little electricity might be infinitely better than the proposed solution... And much cheaper! This would allow implementation of a much smaller genset with a resulting use of far less fuel and much better conservation of the fuel on hand.
But what do I know? I'm just a simple uneducated country boy barely able to read or write. My advice would be to ignore me. Never allow the facts to get in one's way when a plan is afoot.
Nord, I must confess that many times you post some quite valuable insights into complex systems that I had not garnered anywhere previously. I just question the necessity of your posts here, when the question didn't seem to warrant anything beyond Hey, here's the info you're looking for, had you considered alternatives beyond a genset for heat, as its surely requiring you to oversize the unit you'll be needing?
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Most of the power outages we suffer here are a few times during the spring and summer thunderstorm season, and result in 3 or 4 hours of inconvenience at worst. Ice storms like the one in 2013 that caused power loss for 36 hours are rare.
Spending $5000 to $10,000 to alleviate a few hours of inconvenience is unnecessary. I believe a 10KW portable generator will more than suffice for running the fridge, a few lights, computer and TV and the well pump during the warmer months. AC is not essential.
In the event of an impending ice storm we will rely on a few gallon jugs of drinking water and fill one of the bathtubs for toilet flushing. We'll close off the non-essential areas of the house and use our portable kerosine and propane heaters for during the day, and use space heaters and lots of blankets for sleeping.
Thanks again!
Sort of like a Jennings pistol. Yes its a pistol but would you depend on it when it really counts? Remember, you get what you pay for.
Generac = Junk.
Sort of like a Jennings pistol. Yes its a pistol but would you depend on it when it really counts? Remember, you get what you pay for.
And you know this how???
I,ve installed at least 7 of the generac gensets in the last 12 years.
Most were 480v 3 phase at 400 amps.
Everyone is still going fine, with many power outages under their belts.
Sounds like a reasonable plan alright, except for the kerosene, and propane heaters. You're not planning on running those inside are you? Very dangerous course of action to do that. My choice would be a couple of those oil filled heaters like nord mentioned. Also, don't forget to plug your deep freeze in once in a while. Fridges, and freezers actually do quite well if people aren't getting in them all the time.
Since they have very little effect upon the outside temperature we'll be running them inside, during the day while we're awake and active. [:)] Danger minimized by CO detectors and cracking a couple of windows.