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TrinityScrimshaw
Dads3040
Member Posts: 13,552 ✭✭✭
Do you actually do scrimshaw? What's the story?
Just curious.
Just curious.
Comments
I have been considering the 12Ga 28" bbl model; I'm just waiting for a good deal to come my way. [:D]
G36
Gun Control Disarms Victims, NOT Criminals
Thank you again for your generosity.
Ed
I can not see in my head pictures to draw. Even when my Dad tried to teach me to play guitar i have no ear for music. My Dad could hear a song one time and play it. I never got past the holding the guitar because im left handed i wanted to hold it upside down. That ended the lesson. LOL
Now with work all you have to do is give me a machine and i can wire it up, run air to it, and run eathernet to the machine.
My granddaughter and i were drawing and she asked me to draw a cow. I drew a cow for her and then she said draw me a dog so i drew her a dog. After that she asked me to draw a cat so i drew her a cat.
She looked at all three and asked me why do they all look the same except some are bigger. They were all the same except for the size. The cow was the biggest. LOL
Its bad when a 5 year old talks junk about your drawing.
Congrats on your talent. I do not have that. I can catch a ball like crazy. Baseball or football it does not matter.
http://forums.GunBroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=689723
quote:Originally posted by TrinityScrimshaw
1911a1-fan,
If the hammer is down on a live round, you have to manually cock it for the first round to fire...single action style...after that it's rock & roll time...[:p]
Trinity +++
you are right, and you are wrong
a 1911 is only a single action, and should never have the hammer down on a live round EVER , the actions you describe does not alter the guns design, you just take extra unnecessary steps
not that i know anything about them [:D]
Thank you again,
Lance
Jon
I bought one of these to train my draw with from Midway. It's less than $20 with shipping, they are the exact size and shape of a full-size 1911. I don't know if that'll work for you, but you might want to check it out
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/158673/cold-steel-1911-rubber-training-pistol?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shooting - Range Accessories&utm_content=158673&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Shooting - Range Accessories-_-Cold Steel-_-158673&gclid=CjwKCAiAk4XUBRB5EiwAHBLUMbSsB6NlitakME-z5um9vZiyg3LRZiARv7LWWozG_eke9q4ufszb3hoCekIQAvD_BwE
Also you said you had some left-handed 1911 holsters on the shelf that you said you are having a hard time moving. Are any of them full size IWB? I might be interested in taking one off your hands if you put it on the auction side
Let me know if you would please
Thank you
Ed
Enquiring minds want to know.
I Was thinking of You been there Twice[:0]
I have often thought of trying my hand at it. Is it terribly difficult? Does it take years and years to get passably good?
Any good How-To books or other sources you could recommend?
Thanks.
quote:Originally posted by He Dog
Until Trinity comes along, if there is a Leatherfactory (formerly Tandy) near you they give classes. You may also find classes at an adult education location near you depending upon the educational resources in the area. Classes are a good way to learn.
Wished Tandys was still around
leather tools have been gathering dust for decades
They are still in business but leather prices are outrageous.
www.tandyleatherfactory.com
The website also has instructional video's to watch.
Thanks---Peabo
Tandy used to sell a basic leather working set with the standard tools and a few small projects. It's a good start, but it can get costly quick. Leather, lace, awls, dyes etc., etc.
Here is a holster I made from a Tandy kit my son gave me. Most of what I made was belts, knife sheaths and small items. I put a hammer strap on it because at that time my son was riding his horse through the local timbers and I didn't want him losing that pistol. Sewing the bullet loops on that thing was tedious.
Thanks for the compliments. I'm a bit harder on myself then others and I see a lot of area where I can improve.
I have always been good a art, and free hand drawing. That's how I got into my scrimshaw work. I have also messed around with leather for a long time, always needing tack work done on saddles and such. Made my own saddle bags for my Harley over 35 years ago. I can just look at a holster I like, and knowing what kind of gun it will fit I can usually just draw out my own pattern.
When I started shooting Cowboy Action competition I quickly discovered that there were not many places in NY state to purchase good gear, and what I saw friends buying via the internet was just too costly. So, I just kind of fell into it.
Tandy Leather still exist. They are the prominent leather supplier in the US. I get most of my leather through them. I buy most of my supplies through them by mail order over the internet. When I buy their leather I drive 100 miles to their shop in Syracuse NY to checkout what they have first hand. The last time I bought leather there over the internet it had a big hole in the middle of it when I unrolled it. So I don't trust them to pick it out for me after that.
Tandy Leather's web sight also has a lot of free how to videos for the novice. You can find their closest store near you by going to (www.tandyleather.com). Their main store is at 1900 SE Loop 820 Fort Worth, TX. 76140.
Like previously mentioned they are not cheap. Right now their Ultimate Leather-Craft set is on sale for $599. It comes with almost everything you will need to get started, but check it out first. I piece milled all my gear by seeing what I needed, & what I could use out of the tools I already had. I also was lucky and found someone selling their leather tools on Craigs-List locally and picked them up for a song.
Thanks to the EPA there are no more Tanneries in the US. All unfinished hides must be exported out of the US, tanned, then imported back for sale. I found a former Tannery just West of Albany NY that sold me a lot of scraps a few years ago for a steal. It was some high end stuff too, I just now started buying from Tandy again. last Friday I picked up a 1/4 side of 9-10 ounce Tooling side for $104. I also get a discount for being a "Gold" member la-te-da!
My problem sometimes is getting in a rush, and I may skip a step or two. Do not Rush, and if you do screw something up try and incorporate it into the finish. Pay attention to the grade, ounce (Thickness) of the leather weight. It makes all the difference in the world in what you intend to use it for. A holster, a purse, a wallet, or set of moccasins will all require a particular thickness of leather. Use 8 ounce of higher on a wallet & you probably wont be able to close it.
Didn't mean to get long winded, but I hope this helps. Email me if you have anymore questions?
Trinity +++
Some say its expensive, but damn, you seen the price of 22/223 lately[:D]
Thanks for the information. I will take a look at the Tandy site and see what I find. I am sure I will have more questions, so thanks for the willingness to help out.
Chris
It is not the old Tandy, but the folks at the local store, at least, are pretty helpful folks.
I'm not saying it doesn't exist, but reading through their brochures & literature I can't find anything that mentions the words "Leather Factory".
Not sure if it even matters who owns them or if they have ever sold batteries, but they still use the name "Tandy Leather".
Just saying.
Ditch-Runner,
Where I grew up in Texas there was a Tannery about ten miles away from use that sat long some train tracks. At times there would be box cars packed full of freshly skinned raw hides parked along side of the Tannery waiting to be unloaded. Whenever the wind would shift you could smell that funk all the way to where we lived...[xx(]
Trinity +++