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Gun Blue Steel or Stainless Steel and Why?

RugerNinerRugerNiner Member Posts: 12,636 ✭✭✭
edited August 2002 in General Discussion
Here's the Scenario.

Your are buying a Brand New Ruger P-89DC.
The Gun will be used for General shooting and Self Defense Carry.
Do you buy it in Blue or Stainless and Why? Difference in price is $20.

Keep Focused on the Subject Material and NOT the Gun Model.

Remember...Terrorist are attacking Civilians; Not the Government. Protect Yourself!
Keep your Powder dry and your Musket well oiled.
NRA Lifetime Benefactor Member.

Comments

  • rameleni1rameleni1 Member Posts: 998 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I would, and have chosen the Stainless models. They are better looking, rustproof, and hold up there value better. I have heard that stainless steel might have corrosion problems, but I have never had this problem. All my stainless guns look as good as the day I bought them. You can also use stronger cleaners on stainless, that can take the blueing off other guns. There is only 1 downside I have heard of. That is the fact that you can see the stainless much easyier than a blued gun in a gunfight. I don't really think this is a problem myself.

    Rameleni1
  • LowriderLowrider Member Posts: 6,587
    edited November -1
    Stainless. Looks better, low maintenance. I won't buy a blued handgun.

    Lord Lowrider the LoquaciousMember:Secret Select Society of Suave Stylish Smoking Jackets She was only a fisherman's daughter,But when she saw my rod she reeled.
  • michael minarikmichael minarik Member Posts: 478 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You won't have to reblue stainlss; Stainlss steel steel-wool will buff out scratches on the stainlss surface. NEVER use carbon steel wool on stainless!!! In a revolver a stainless cylinder ...ever see a Blue Casull...is twice a strong as it's counter part(read this many years ago). Stainlss will not rust as quickly as regular gun steel under the same environmental conditions. Some prefer traditional Blue gun metal...give me a Blue carbon steel Python and I would trade it for a stainless model...any time, any day, any week, any month, any year, any decade..ete...can't imagine why so many Smith models are stainlss. Marlin final got their head outta the dark spot and are making stainlss rifle's, Winchester will eventually have to the their head outta the dark spot, wipe the .... from their eyes and make a stainless lever.
  • offerorofferor Member Posts: 8,625 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    If the only other choice is blued, rather than some non-reflective tougher finish, I'd buy stainless because wearing a metal gun close to the body for defense produces the moisture that will produce corrosion. However, A lot of makers are now producing guns in matte (non-reflective) stainless because dark guns have one big advantage -- they conceal a lot better -- they don't go off like a neon sign inside your jacket with every glint of light. Dark guns are better for concealment hands down, its just that blued guns rust. If you were talking any coating like Tenifer, or even matte stainless vs. bright stainless for concealed carry, your better practical choice would be the one that disappears in the shadows.

    Stainless guns used to have binding problems, metal on metal, but apparently those are now worked out. But if you buy an older stainless gun, maybe an old 3-digit S&W semi-auto, that might be a concern too.

    - Life NRA Member
    "If cowardly & dishonorable men shoot unarmed men with army guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary...and not by general deprivation of constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878
  • IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think a blued gun is better looking, but all my carry pieces are stainless or other alloys which are resistant to rust. Carry pieces tend to be rubbed more than ones which sit in the safe between trips to the range. Thin / bare spots + proximity to body = rust. Stainless will rust, but much less, much more slowly. I have several stainless sidearms which have badly rusted grip screws but no evidence of rust elsewhere.
  • varmit huntervarmit hunter Member Posts: 1,674 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Kinda makes me wonder why the Navy Seals, Special forces, Rangers, PHs in Africa etc, Do not carry stainless guns.
    Take a good bore scope and look down the bore of a stainless gun. Then look at a 4140 Chrome Molly (Blue). Yes I do have several stainless guns. Just don't do anything serious with them.

    The most important things, Are not things.
  • kgnovumkgnovum Member Posts: 594 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Bluing guns is basically for "looks" and also as mentioned in the previous post, carbon steel (which blued guns are made of) is stronger and harder than stainless steels. The stainless steels most guns are made of are NOT rust PROOF, but they are quite rust RESISTANT - if taken care of well. As with any guns, if you do not keep them clean and oiled, even S.S. guns will rust. Mostly it looks more like staining, but it "can" be difficult to remove.

    Both metal serve their intended purposes well, so choose the one that suits your needs the best.
  • RugerNinerRugerNiner Member Posts: 12,636 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm surprised to see everybody chose Stainless Steel over Blue.
    The reason I'm so surprised is the amount of Blue Guns in the Dealers Stores compared to Stainless steel. Blue Guns seem to more than out number Stainlees Steel by quite a margin.

    Of course Glocks have to be Blue because Legos don't make Silver Pieces.

    Remember...Terrorist are attacking Civilians; Not the Government. Protect Yourself!





    Edited by - RugerNiner on 08/06/2002 06:38:11
    Keep your Powder dry and your Musket well oiled.
    NRA Lifetime Benefactor Member.
  • ccasey612ccasey612 Member Posts: 901 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    For carry I would pick blued. It attracts less attention.

    If you will blame gun makers for every shooting then blame car maker for every car accident.
  • offerorofferor Member Posts: 8,625 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Huh? Rangers and Seals wear guns openly against outer clothing on operations which are often covert at night, which is why they need non-reflective materials. Concealed carry close to the body under the outer clothing in civilian life requires a completely different set of priorities.

    - Life NRA Member
    "If cowardly & dishonorable men shoot unarmed men with army guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary...and not by general deprivation of constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878
  • gap1916gap1916 Member Posts: 4,977
    edited November -1
    If you work or live near a body of salt water I would recomend stainless if you do not know or believe in keeping your weapon clean i would go with stainless. Otherwise i would go with the Blue. Just my 2 cents.
  • concealedG36concealedG36 Member Posts: 3,566 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've read that the amount of chromium in the steel will determine the rust-resistant quality of the metal. In order to be considered stainless the steel must have something like 18% chromium. However, more chromium means more rust-resistance.

    I have also read that stainless steel is actually softer than carbon steel. And, finally, a chrome-lined barrel is less accurate than a stainless barrel. This would seem to mean that a stainless barrel would provide better accuracy but shorter life.

    Anybody know if what I read is correct?



    Gun Control Disarms Victims, NOT Criminals
  • Shootist3006Shootist3006 Member Posts: 4,171
    edited November -1
    I am amazed at the number of stainless fans. I guess it is a generational thing. I think stainless guns are UGLY. Aside from cosmetics, last time I looked, stainless semi's still have metalurgical problems - galling. Not as bad as it was 15 or 20 years ago but still a problem.

    Quod principi placuit legis habet vigorem.Semper Fidelis
  • dads-freeholddads-freehold Member Posts: 1,361 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    greetings, have several of both type, mostly in 9 and 45. have noted that all need to be cleaned and oiled and kept dry, other wise i've not noted any real difference in quality or performance. respt submitted dads-freehold

    rodney colson
  • dads-freeholddads-freehold Member Posts: 1,361 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    greetings, have several of both type, mostly in 9 and 45. have noted that all need to be cleaned and oiled and kept dry, other wise i've not noted any real difference in quality or performance. respt submitted dads-freehold

    rodney colson
  • kgnovumkgnovum Member Posts: 594 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Here is a quick clarification of Carbon and Stainless Steels.

    Steels start falling into the category of "stainless" when the chromium content reaches around two percent (2%). These are low grade stainless steels and then it goes up from there with the maximum chromium content being around eight percent (8%). As the chromium content increases, the strength and hardness (also brittleness) of the steel decreases, and the malleability or softness increases. Higher chromium contents increase resistance to rust but to get truly rust "proof" metal, small amounts of "nickel" must be added.

    Most guns are made from low grades of stainless steel as they need to retain as much strength and hardness as possible. There is a trade off here between strength/hardness and rust resistance. Different manufacturers use different grades of stainless, so check with them to see what they use.

    Strength and hardness are going to give longer life in two areas.
    1. Fatigue cracks - from repeat operations and pressure.
    2. Wear - from friction of normal use on all components and bullet travel through the bore.

    Stainless Steels can generally provide longer life of the surface finish from corrosion/rust.

    Hope this info helps... KG
  • 101AIRBORNE101AIRBORNE Member Posts: 1,252 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    KG,
    Every SS firearm or part is manufactured from a 400 Series SS. I believe that you should add a few percent more chrome to your post.
    I personally like the blue finish. A SS arm will rust as previously posted but are "resistant", to a degree. A salt water atmosphere is not great on any steel. SS will, after a time of neglect, will rust.
    (400 Series). The chlorides in the salt water will react w/ SS.
    W/ all steel, keep them free from O2 and well oiled. 101
  • kgnovumkgnovum Member Posts: 594 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    101airborne - You are correct and all good advice in your post! I pulled the percent figures on stainless from my memory (mistake?) but I think they are pretty close. Now you got my curiosity up and I'm gonna dig out my charts and get it exact. I knew most guns were made from 400 grade materials but am not a "gun expert" and wasn't sure if this was an industry standard or not. My metallurgy background is in the industrial/oilfield areas?! But I like guns a bunch more!
  • offerorofferor Member Posts: 8,625 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Shootist --
    Galling, that's the word I was trying to think of. It was a big deal on early stainless guns because it affected performance in a negative way. I get the impression that while galling still exists when stainless parts rub together, the engineers have solved the performance problems on current generation firearms, neutralizing it, for the most part, as a factor in a gun purchasing decision.

    As far as I know, sweat has some salt content, which makes it a rust threat. I would buy a stainless gun for my car trunk or for keeping in a boat for the summer, but I agree with the concensus that proper cleaning and regular maintenance will keep any finish from dying a quick corrosion death. The real advantage of stainless vs. corrosion is that it tends to hold its looks longer, so if "pretty" is important to you, and you don't hate the look of stainless, then it does make sense where moisture is a concern. And galling is not the concern it was 25 years ago. It would be interesting to know how the galling "problem" was solved -- by reducing the amount of chromium, or by redesigning the way the gun parts move over one another. Anyone with insight is welcome to post.

    - Life NRA Member
    "If cowardly & dishonorable men shoot unarmed men with army guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary...and not by general deprivation of constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878
  • nunnnunn Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 36,085 ******
    edited November -1
    I prefer stainless. It should have a non-glare finish if possible.

    My SIG P229 has a stainless slide, but it is coated with something black. Best of both worlds.

    Smith & Wesson came up with some black stainless revolvers several years ago. I don't think they sold well, but it seemed like a good idea.

    SIG pistol armorer/FFL Dealer/Full time Peace Officer, Moderator of General Discussion Board on Gunbroker. Visit www.gunbroker.com, the best gun auction site on the Net! Email davidnunn@texoma.net
  • kaliforniankalifornian Member Posts: 475 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm looking for a CC weapoh for my wife and was considering a titanium .357 Mag loaded with .38 special +P's (or a .38 special). I wanted the Ti so it would be light enough for her to carry all of the time. (Obviously she will be the ultimate decider but she isn't as much of an enthusiast as I and leaves research up to me.) How does Ti compare to SS and blue for durability?

    So many guns, so little money . . .
  • 101AIRBORNE101AIRBORNE Member Posts: 1,252 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    KG,
    No intent was made to really challenge your thoughts. I also am involved w/petro chem & power. I just believed the chromium was a tad bit low, percentage wise. Hope no hard feelings? I get my * chewed out every now and then by "EXPERTS". I believe the chromium would be about 12%/plus/minus. You just dropped the (1) prior to the (2). Give me a hollar at smhco@juno.com
    Sorry RUGERNINER 101
  • offerorofferor Member Posts: 8,625 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    kalifornian --
    Titanium is lighter and stronger than steel, and your wife would find it a durable and easy-to-carry gun. Consider something with a snag-free hammer, for clean draw from purse or clothing.

    - Life NRA Member
    "If cowardly & dishonorable men shoot unarmed men with army guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary...and not by general deprivation of constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878
  • snarlgardsnarlgard Member Posts: 1,310 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ______________________________________________________________________
    I'm looking for a CC weapoh for my wife and was considering a titanium .357 Mag loaded with .38 special +P's (or a .38 special). I wanted the Ti so it would be light enough for her to carry all of the time. (Obviously she will be the ultimate decider but she isn't as much of an enthusiast as I and leaves research up to me.) How does Ti compare to SS and blue for durability?

    So many guns, so little money . . .
    ______________________________________________________________________
    You need to have your wife shoot both before you buy if possable
    I bought one of the turaus 38 in titanium for my wife and she traded for my blued steel 38
    She thought the lighter weight gun kicked more than the steel.
    But i can't tell the difference really

    SMILE...MAKE EM WONDER WHAT YOUR UP TO
  • TED GARTED GAR Member Posts: 389 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    For a handgun I like stainless. The finish just looks
    a lot nicer, and you dont have to worry about rust. Given
    a little oil, now and then. Put some orange juice, on it, and
    it will develope, and orange tinted rust, which, could be
    hard to remove. Now, On a high power rifle, in excess of
    4000 fps, I do not recommend stainless. The tensile strength,
    just isnt the same as a 4140 alloy, black steel barrel, which
    could result, in stripping out the lands, in the barrel. As I
    recall, a 4140 black steel barrel, is at or about 107 HRB.
    and the stainless barrel is somewhere near, 80 HRB Brinell.
    Okay, you metalurgists out there, do your testing, and check.
  • offerorofferor Member Posts: 8,625 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yeah, I think I saw a gun magazine review just last month knocking one of the new lightweights as kicking too hard; one of the guys found them punishing. For the ladies, it's a balancing act. Maybe titanium is a little too light; maybe another alloy would be better.

    I would definitely go for a hammerless, shrouded hammer, or bobbed hammer small frame, though. Just too many ways a regular hammer can get hung up when coming out in a hurry, and a bigger gun will start to feel too heavy. Snubbies are nice because they're harder to wrestle out of your hand in a close assault. And a hammer-shrouded pistol can even be fired through a pocket or purse if necessary, which is one clear advantage over a "pocket" semi-auto.

    - Life NRA Member
    "If cowardly & dishonorable men shoot unarmed men with army guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary...and not by general deprivation of constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878
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