In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
Options

Advice on Brake Repairs?

SkyWatcherSkyWatcher Member Posts: 1,571 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited June 2004 in General Discussion
Well, my truck ('92 F-150) needs brake repairs, I just don't know what kind. Every time I press on the brake, I get a metal on metal scratching sound. I checked and I can see a gouge on the disc, so I'm guessing that the brake pads have worn through and something is now scoring the disc deeper and deeper as time goes on.

My question is, will new brake pads fix this, or am I looking at more extensive repairs? Second, more important, question - how much is this likely to cost?

"Roma locuta est, causa finita est."

Comments

  • Options
    select-fireselect-fire Member Posts: 69,453 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I will guestimate the replacement rotors are around 30 each and pads will be round' 25. Total $85.00 add labor.
  • Options
    shooter4shooter4 Member Posts: 4,457
    edited November -1
    The rotors (disks) may only need to be resurfaced depending on how deep the gouges are. Then you'll need new pads, around $25 for all four. If you do need rotors, my Dakota rotors cost around $70 each.

    Figure it took around an hour and a half to replace everything. A garage will get $65-$80 per hour.

    The longer you wait, the more likely you will need to replace the rotors.
  • Options
    SkyWatcherSkyWatcher Member Posts: 1,571 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Maybe I'm wrong here, but I think I just have disc brakes on the front, and drum on the back. Does this sound right? I any case, the rotor with the scoring is only on one side. Is it safe to replace just one rotor and not the other, if it comes down to it?

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."
  • Options
    select-fireselect-fire Member Posts: 69,453 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    yep, just replace the bad one. Drums on back. There is a minimum thickness the rotor can be. I checked advanced auto's website and hit the price right on the money [^]. Don't forget to check wheel bearing while doing the job.
  • Options
    SkyWatcherSkyWatcher Member Posts: 1,571 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just called a brake shop near here - they quoted me $104.95 (parts and labor) to repack the bearings, put on new brake pads, and turn (resurface) the rotors. Does this sound fair?

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."
  • Options
    hawkeye6020hawkeye6020 Member Posts: 2,517 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by SkyWatcher
    Maybe I'm wrong here, but I think I just have disc brakes on the front, and drum on the back. Does this sound right? I any case, the rotor with the scoring is only on one side. Is it safe to replace just one rotor and not the other, if it comes down to it?

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."


    yes you can just replace the one if thats all you need. If you are doing it yourself the parts store will have the specs on how thin the rotor can be before it needs replaced. yes you should have drums on the rear i don't think that they were putting 4 wheel disk on then. but its possable.

    "Life is not a journey to the grave wtih the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body,

    But rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    -WOW- WHAT A RIDE!!!!!"
  • Options
    CHGOTHNDERCHGOTHNDER Member Posts: 8,936 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Don't take a chance brakes could mean your life. Buy new rotors and pads don't have them cut, as cheap as parts are now you could do them all for about $170.00 and pads & rotors are easy.

    PJ

    If nobody seen you do it, how could you have done it. NRA Life Member, AF&AM
  • Options
    SkyWatcherSkyWatcher Member Posts: 1,571 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Should I just do this myself? I've done a lot of easy repairs myself like installing alternators/starters, changing points and plugs, basic maintenance - would it be possible to do this myself without too much fuss? It may be just as easy to pay someone else though, because I would have to buy two floor jacks ($20-30 bucks each).

    The new pads and rotor installation sounds easy enough (I'm guessing were talking about a few bolts here and there), but "repacking the bearings", whatever that is, sounds tricky.

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."
  • Options
    select-fireselect-fire Member Posts: 69,453 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Fair price.. let them do the job and guarantee it.
  • Options
    bigtirebigtire Member Posts: 24,800
    edited November -1
    How old is the truck? How many more miles are you going to drive it? Call me a cheapskate but with old beaters I have often just replaced the pads. The brakes will work OK with scored roters after metal to metal scraping, but the new pads won't last quite as long.

    If you are even slightly mechanically enclined replacing the front pads is easy. O'Reilly Automotive has a pad set for your truck for $11.99. A lot cheaper than $109!

    Cinder blocks are the poor man's jack stands.

    MOLON LABE!
    allahSortbs.jpg
    An evil tree bears evil fruit. You can destroy as much fruit as you want, but it will always grow back, and it will always be evil.

    Tear the tree out of the ground by the roots and burn it. Burn it to ash and grind out the embers with your boot until there's nothing left. Not a single spark. Not a single seed.
  • Options
    TOOLS1TOOLS1 Member Posts: 6,133
    edited November -1
    Ditto what Select-fire said.
    TOOLS

    General TOOLS RRG

    Don't go blaming the beer. Hank Hill

    So much Ice, So much Beer. So little time. Shooter4

    I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill

    When I was a child, I thought as a child. But now that I am grown, I just wish I could act like a child and get away with it.
  • Options
    SkyWatcherSkyWatcher Member Posts: 1,571 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Truck has 207,000 miles. We were contemplating selling it just this past week to save on gas and insurance, but decided we couldn't make it work with one car with two kids and a job to get to everyday. Insurance in negligable, but gas isn't.

    The truck is approaching that hallowed and exalted state known as "junker", but it's been good to me all in all.

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."
  • Options
    SkyWatcherSkyWatcher Member Posts: 1,571 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Another question: Are there two pads per rotor or just one? I know that the caliper "squeezes" the rotor, so is there a pad on each side of the rotor? That would make two per brake, for a total of four for the two front brakes. Is this correct?

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."
  • Options
    TOOLS1TOOLS1 Member Posts: 6,133
    edited November -1
    Which is cheaper? Gas or gas and a car payment? I have 240,000 on the tool hauler (94 Ford F-150) Runs and drives like a new truck. I think it still has at least that many more miles left in it[;)][:D][:D]
    TOOLS

    General TOOLS RRG

    Don't go blaming the beer. Hank Hill

    So much Ice, So much Beer. So little time. Shooter4

    I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill

    When I was a child, I thought as a child. But now that I am grown, I just wish I could act like a child and get away with it.
  • Options
    TOOLS1TOOLS1 Member Posts: 6,133
    edited November -1
    Yes there are 2 per rotor. Thay come in sets of 4.
    TOOLS

    General TOOLS RRG

    Don't go blaming the beer. Hank Hill

    So much Ice, So much Beer. So little time. Shooter4

    I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill

    When I was a child, I thought as a child. But now that I am grown, I just wish I could act like a child and get away with it.
  • Options
    BOBBYWINSBOBBYWINS Member Posts: 7,810
    edited November -1
    If you decide to do it yourself,just be sure not to get a pad in backwards like my "Buddy" did on my '01 Dodge Ram.I can't believe I went 2000 miles before it started making noise.[:0]

    BW

    IT'S WHAT PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT THEMSELVES THAT MAKES THEM AFRAID.
  • Options
    SkyWatcherSkyWatcher Member Posts: 1,571 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    In order to jack the truck up safely, would I need two floor jacks, or could I get by with one, and just raise one side at a time? And would the $15-20 cheap walmart floor jacks work?

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."
  • Options
    ThrockmortonThrockmorton Member Posts: 814 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    No offense,but the quesions you are asking make me think you should not attempt this job yourself.I've done a ton of 'em and it takes a bit more than a jack and stands.You also need to know what to look for as to bad wheel bearings,weeping braked lines,how tight to go on the bearing nut,etc.
    The front brakes do the majority of the work so going cheap on the pads is not the way to go,but don't spend sixty bucks a set either.
    If your not pulling a trailer or hauling a camper,having the rotors turned is very acceptible,although in some cases new ones are not much more money.
    Above all don't let the shop try to stick ya for a 600.00 total brake job.it happens!!

    Throckmortons' the alias,cas is the game.
  • Options
    bigtirebigtire Member Posts: 24,800
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by SkyWatcher
    In order to jack the truck up safely, would I need two floor jacks, or could I get by with one, and just raise one side at a time? And would the $15-20 cheap walmart floor jacks work?

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."


    You can do one side at a time with one floor jack.

    MOLON LABE!
    allahSortbs.jpg
    An evil tree bears evil fruit. You can destroy as much fruit as you want, but it will always grow back, and it will always be evil.

    Tear the tree out of the ground by the roots and burn it. Burn it to ash and grind out the embers with your boot until there's nothing left. Not a single spark. Not a single seed.
  • Options
    SkyWatcherSkyWatcher Member Posts: 1,571 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:No offense, but the quesions you are asking make me think you should not attempt this job yourself.

    No offense taken - and I understand where you're coming from - but, I have to ask the simple questions first so I get an idea of what's going on, then move to some of the specifics. I'm actually very mechanically inclined, I just don't have a lot of experience. I've done most of the work on my truck myself so far (with occassional help from a Chilton's manual). I just kind of dive in with a general understanding of what's needed and get it done.

    I've never messed with brakes before because I consider it a important safety issue, but the truck is just getting too old to spend my money on using a mechanic for any reason. $100 dollars isn't too much though, and I would spend $50 in parts anyway to do it myself.

    "Roma locuta est, causa finita est."
  • Options
    bigtirebigtire Member Posts: 24,800
    edited November -1
    I found some break job instructions for you.

    1) Jack car up and support (So you are safe).

    2.) Remove front tires/wheels. Open hood. Remove cap from brake fluid resevoir, suck out (with a turkey baster or shop suction bulb) most of the brake fluid from the resevoir.

    3) Pick a side to start on. Loosen caliper retaining bolts, pull them out when loose (may need to lightly tap with a hammer). Lift caliper off disc and support (so it won't hang on the brake line).

    If you want to replace rotors continue here, if not skip to step 6.

    4.) Remove disc retaning screws or spindle nut and then rotor (may neet to tap gently with hammer). Remove bearings from old rotor. (again tap out gently with hammer) Replace with new if worn out. pack bearings w/ grease and Press bearings into new rotor

    5.) Put new rotor in place and secure with retaining screws or tighten spindle nut all the way and back off 1/4 turn.

    6.) Remove pads if they didn't fall off the caliper on their own. Remember the position of pads and where all clips were.

    6.) Use a C-clamp to seat piston back into caliper. Once in, reinstall new brake pads and retainer clips (if needed).

    8.) Place caliper with new pads back in place and secure with retaining bolts (them long suckers you took out earlier).

    9.) notice in pushing the piston back, the resevoir level has risen,
    remove old fluid with bulb and top off with fresh (pour slowly so no
    bubbles form and so you don't spill, brake fluid will dissolve paint!)

    10.) Place cap on resvoir. Pump brakes (car off) to seat pads on rotors, pump until the pedal feels firm (3-5 times usually). Hold to floor, have helper loosten bleed screw, and let fluid out. Repeat until fresh new fluid comes out.

    11.) Now do the other side.

    12.) Inspect work to ensure all is secure and all tools are accounted for. Ensure no "left over parts" exhist.

    13.) Drive car to check for function.

    MOLON LABE!
    allahSortbs.jpg
    An evil tree bears evil fruit. You can destroy as much fruit as you want, but it will always grow back, and it will always be evil.

    Tear the tree out of the ground by the roots and burn it. Burn it to ash and grind out the embers with your boot until there's nothing left. Not a single spark. Not a single seed.
  • Options
    bsallybsally Member Posts: 3,165
    edited November -1
    In regards to your floor jack question. Yes the cheap ones will work, but it will not lift high enough to get the wheels off the groung without a couple blocks of wood. You will usually need atleast 19 inches of lift for a truck or suv. Waiting for my pads to do the brakes on my Tacoma. Easy job really. Though Toyota makes it easy with racing style brakes. Calipers do not need to be removed. Pads go in and out the top with only the removal of two pins.

    SALLY
    Committee member-Ducks Unlimited
  • Options
    kriskris Member Posts: 973 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    once you have the pads installed.and reserve filled and closed up tight...compress the brake pedal to push the fluid back into the calipers...brakes are a closed system other than the resivour...they should pump up back to normal with out breaking loose the bleed screws on the caliper's...check this first...then after if the pedal is soft or mushy or has too far of a distance of travel to fully engage the brake...then attempt to bleed them... a beater that old sounds like the bleeders would be frozen up...you dont want to be breaking these off....so use liquid wrench on them a few hours before you attempt to break them loose...its all basic work....do it once you will remember for life

    it is good that we meet in the struggle of life or death.. .....it shall be life!
  • Options
    ruger270manruger270man Member Posts: 9,361 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    if i can change pads and rotors, anyone can. Calipers are a little more complicated, because it involves bleeding the brakes, but metal on metal just means pads, and probably rotors, because the worn down pads probably messed those up.


    GWB_logo_100.gifak.jpg01_american_flag.jpg
    www.awbansunset.com

    "I will no longer debate a liberal because I feel they are beneath contempt. Just communicating with one contaminates a person." - whiteclouder

    "If the existing assault weapons ban expires, I personally do not believe it will make one whit of difference one way or another . . . So if it doesn't pass, it doesn't pass." Tom Diaz, Senior Policy Analyst, Violence Policy Center (VPC)
  • Options
    MercuryMercury Member Posts: 7,809 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Do NOT use cinder blocks as support! They can crack or crumble easily!

    It is NOT worth the $20 that a jack and a pair of jack stands cost! Don't take the risk with junk, get the right stuff.


    Merc (the safety Nazi!)

    "It's not about winning, it's about FUN!" - Spongebob Squarepants


    "Tolerating things you may not necessarily like is part of being free" - Larry Flynt
Sign In or Register to comment.