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AR15 Disconnector Problem
AzAfshin
Member Posts: 2,985 ✭✭
So I built a 556 AR based on a lower I bought pre-election [8D] I put a standard AR Stoner Enhanced trigger in there. As expected the trigger draw was very gritty and heavy. So I took out the FCG and polished all the contact points. That took care of the gritty feel, and as I expected, didn't lower the trigger weight any. I wasn't trying to reduce the trigger weight, just make it smoother. Did a function test and everything checked out until I went to the range.
No, it didn't go full auto. It did something I didn't expect. When I pulled the trigger it went bang once and ready for the next shot. If I let go of the trigger (to reset) fast, then no problem. But if I released the trigger slowly, instead of resetting, it would fire a shot and then be ready for the next shot. I googled the problem and the most common feedback was that the pin holes may be too far apart so when the disconnector releases the hammer, the sear doesn't catch it in time.
So I was resigned to having to buy an expensive trigger that came already assembled and just drop it in. Well, I slept on it and came up with a solution. I ground the front part of the disconnector (where it sits on the trigger) down to increase the amount of forward rotation of the disconnector, increasing the amount of time the hammer was held by the disconnector before releasing the hammer. Worked out to about 100th of an inch of removal, but now it works no matter how slowly I release the trigger.
However, I have a question for you guys. Before I take it to the range, do you guys foresee any other issues with my fix that I should look into now?
No, it didn't go full auto. It did something I didn't expect. When I pulled the trigger it went bang once and ready for the next shot. If I let go of the trigger (to reset) fast, then no problem. But if I released the trigger slowly, instead of resetting, it would fire a shot and then be ready for the next shot. I googled the problem and the most common feedback was that the pin holes may be too far apart so when the disconnector releases the hammer, the sear doesn't catch it in time.
So I was resigned to having to buy an expensive trigger that came already assembled and just drop it in. Well, I slept on it and came up with a solution. I ground the front part of the disconnector (where it sits on the trigger) down to increase the amount of forward rotation of the disconnector, increasing the amount of time the hammer was held by the disconnector before releasing the hammer. Worked out to about 100th of an inch of removal, but now it works no matter how slowly I release the trigger.
However, I have a question for you guys. Before I take it to the range, do you guys foresee any other issues with my fix that I should look into now?
Comments
I have seen my share of issues caused by a offset, flat, bent. and weak disconnector springs, to include full auto.
Drop-ins are cool and solve your problem in its entirety.
Mogley, I actually did take it apart and put it back together several times hoping that would fix it, but it didn't. But now that it's a menace I have no choice but to send it to you for "disposal" [:D][:p]
Chiefr, I double and triple checked the spring. It's working perfectly. It is possible that it was under powered and not holding the disconnector in position long enough, but very hard to check for that with a two piece FCG when inside the gun.
https://www.franklinarmory.com/products/binary-firing-system-gen-iii-trigger-pack
man they are charging 400.00 for a binary trigger and you had one for free [:D]
https://www.franklinarmory.com/products/binary-firing-system-gen-iii-trigger-pack
I was thinking the exact same thing [:D] But now I know how to convert a trigger to a binary system.
Throw away all the parts you ground, polished, or otherwise diddled with and start over with an ALG QMS or PSA enhanced fire control group.
General rule of thumb is never put more than one round in the mag until you've proven the FCG works properly.