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How the Hell?

E.WilliamsE.Williams Member Posts: 1,101 ✭✭✭✭
edited July 2002 in General Discussion
Do I remove this Kel-Tec barrel?The extractor keeps it from coming how do I get it out without bending or hurting the extractor?Also is it safe to soak these sights in the blue remover? I dont have a hex-key to fit it and Ill waite if I have too but if its safe I will go ahead.It took some looking but I found some Blue Wonder Im ready to see what it can do!Thanks for the reccomendations and help.

Eric S. Williams
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Comments

  • kgnovumkgnovum Member Posts: 594 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'll "try" to help but I'm not an expert at Kel-Tec's. On the left side under the slide, towards the back is a slide catch (I don't know what it is really called). You have to pull the slide all the way back and then push this catch up to hold the slide back in place. Then, using a screwdriver or coin or a strong fingernail, pull out the crossbolt which is also under the slide on the left side, but more towards the front. When the crossbolt is out, pull the slide back and lower the catch. The whole top including the slide, barrel, etc. will then slide forward and off of the frame. Turn it over, pull from the back, forward (under spring pressure) and the barrel, etc. will come right out. Reassemble in reverse.

    Hope this helps. If not, call me at my house and I'll walk you through it. I'm up until about midnight CST. e-mail me at kgibbs@novumsolutions.com for my phone # at home.

    What blue "remover" are you talking about? I don't know what the sights on a Kel-Tec are made of.

    KG
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  • E.WilliamsE.Williams Member Posts: 1,101 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I got the slide asnd springs and all out its just that barrel hanging on the extractor.It actually looks like it wont come out like there isnt enough room to come out.I got Birchwood-Casey Blue and Rust remover and it has very limited directions on the box.The sites look to be plastic to me and I didnt think about it being safe for them unti after I bought it and went to get started.I dont guess it would hurt to leave the barrel in because it has some rust to on top of the barrel where it is exsposed from the slide.But I dont know about the plastc looking sites.

    Eric S. Williams
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  • n/an/a Member Posts: 168,427 ✭
    edited November -1
    Why not try the kel-tec owners site?.. some great articles there... even has one on how to disassemble and assemble...



    OHHHHH MY .. think the B***** in me is showing a tab wee bit tonight..
    Sorry Eric


    One woman's opinion

    Edited by - BlackRoses on 07/30/2002 23:03:51
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  • kgnovumkgnovum Member Posts: 594 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yep - better check their site out. You should be able to push down and forward on the assembly and then it should spring back and out. The sights "do" look, feel and sound (when tapping) to be some sort of plastic or compound.

    After using the blue remover, be sure to clean the piece very well with Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner. Get the full directions from our website and follow them closely. ANY kind of residue, oil, grease, petroleum based product, etc. left on the metal can affect the bluing process. I am not trying to make it sound difficult - just emphasizing that the metal has to be chemically "clean". You cannot use a petroleum based solvent to "clean" the metal before using our bluing. Use our cleaner and it will take care of it.

    Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.

    Also, if you want the matte finish instead of the glossy, directions for this are on our website and there are other ways to do it. Let me know if this is what you want.
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  • E.WilliamsE.Williams Member Posts: 1,101 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Black Roses I was wondering If you were mad at me I saw your smiley face was giving me the evil eye.I didnt even think about the K.T.O.G///////KgNOVUM I would rather have the matte than the glossy so I will look on your site for directions.I could not find any of your cleaner woud alchohol work also or am I already messing up?

    Eric S. Williams
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  • kgnovumkgnovum Member Posts: 594 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ooops!? I just read on the other thread that you did not get our gun cleaner gel!? Well, you really need it for the best results but can get by without it if you are careful. After you remove the bluing, clean the piece well and then clean it with alcohol to remove all oil and petroleum based residues. Heat the piece and try applying the bluing. If it does not bond well, it is because there is residue in the pores of the metal. If this is the case, you will need to get our cleaner and heat the metal "while the gel is on it" to suck the residues out of the metal pores. The pores have to be free as our blue bonds in these pores.

    If you can't find any locally it is available at Midway USA, Brownells, Firingpin.com, etc. I can also send you a small sample enough to do this piece. KG
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  • E.WilliamsE.Williams Member Posts: 1,101 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Good man!!I will gladly accept a free sample..lol.I will still buy some for my other guns I will pressure some local shops to pick up your product and keep it in stock so the sample wont be a loss it will be an investment.

    Eric S. Williams
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  • kgnovumkgnovum Member Posts: 594 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The directions on our site are good for a matte finish but there is actually an easier way. Just follow the bluing procedures but do not apply the "developer". Apply gun oil instead and you will get a matte finish. Apply the oil right after you finish the bluing - do not wait 12-24 hours. And I recommend you do not use Outers gun oil as it does not keep the piece from rusting. Use Breakfree CLP. KG
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