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Gun value data
spurgemastur
Member Posts: 5,655 ✭✭
What resources exist that give used gun values?
I've been a shooter and gun owner since shortly after my divorce (heh). I own four guns. For each of those purchases, I thought about what I wanted, and then saved until I could afford it. I've only recently gotten to a position where I can afford to go out and browse in hopes of finding some happy impulse-purchase.
The problem: I have no idea what most guns are worth. I don't want to walk into a gun show and walk out as the schmuck who WAY overpaid or (perhaps worse) walked away from the deal of the century. Browsing the auctions here gives a rough idea of a few things, but the problem is that a 'buy it now' price may or may not be reasonable (witness many threads on this forum), and most auctions don't approach the sale price until shortly before the end of the auction.
Also, I see guns listed as 98%, or whatever. What does that mean? Is that primarily a cosmetic issue, or does it indicate something about mechanical condition? I'm not wealthy enough to start acquiring collectibles; I'm looking for shooters. Do I need to care if a gun is 98% vs. 95% vs. 80%? Mind you, I've never seen a gun listed as less than 90%....is it all just bull?
Thanks in advance for the advice. Oh yeah, and I'm sure a bunch of you have some AWESOME Ravens you'll let me have at a steal!
I've been a shooter and gun owner since shortly after my divorce (heh). I own four guns. For each of those purchases, I thought about what I wanted, and then saved until I could afford it. I've only recently gotten to a position where I can afford to go out and browse in hopes of finding some happy impulse-purchase.
The problem: I have no idea what most guns are worth. I don't want to walk into a gun show and walk out as the schmuck who WAY overpaid or (perhaps worse) walked away from the deal of the century. Browsing the auctions here gives a rough idea of a few things, but the problem is that a 'buy it now' price may or may not be reasonable (witness many threads on this forum), and most auctions don't approach the sale price until shortly before the end of the auction.
Also, I see guns listed as 98%, or whatever. What does that mean? Is that primarily a cosmetic issue, or does it indicate something about mechanical condition? I'm not wealthy enough to start acquiring collectibles; I'm looking for shooters. Do I need to care if a gun is 98% vs. 95% vs. 80%? Mind you, I've never seen a gun listed as less than 90%....is it all just bull?
Thanks in advance for the advice. Oh yeah, and I'm sure a bunch of you have some AWESOME Ravens you'll let me have at a steal!
Comments
If you want a dollar value, I know you have seen the "Blue Book of Gun Values" it is widely known as a good overall price guide to guns of all kinds. It is WAY off in the Colt's though...a Python is worth at least 25% more than it lists...but it is a starting point.
I forgot to mention....the percentage thing is a bad thing to go by...my 100% will not be the same for all sellers, you should look at the gun (all over) and if there is wear on the rifling that means it has been shot (a lot) and needs a new barrel...but could be PERFECT on the outside. Percentages were a bad thing that got started a long time ago to help sell a gun...its not a good thing to go by when purchasing. Just look it over real well and ask questions.
Just really look at what you want and decide a figure that YOU want to pay....remember...there are lots of guns sitting there with a price on them...the ones that SELL are harder to find. Don't jump in and ask anyone selling about what it is worth...do a little investigating and have educated questions ready for the seller, so they know you are a serious buyer...and say "cash out the door???" That is the lowest they will go....but don't ask unless you HAVE CASH and are ready to pay. Deals are made all of the time....you are the one that gets to decide what a gun is "worth."
The leading professionals in the grading of firearms now utilize what is essentially an objective method for deciding the price of a gun: THE PERCENTAGE OF ORIGINAL FACTORY FINISH BLUING REMAINING ON THE GUN. After looking critically at a few firearms even a novice can tell whether a piece has 100%, 98%, 95%, or less bluing finish remaining. Remember, sometimes an older gun described as NIB can actually be 98% or less condition, simply because of the wear accumulated by taking it in and out of the box and being handled too many times (commemoratives are especially prone to this problem).
Of course, factors such as "depth" and quality of the bluing finish, engraving and embellishment, historical significance, and even the condition of the stock can and do affect the price. But the basic "condition" -- and therefore the price -- is best determined by the percentage of original bluing finish remaining. The key word here is "original" for if anyone other than the factory has refinished the gun, its value as a collector's item is greatly diminished, with the exception of rare and historical pieces that have been properly restored. Study the photographs on pages 26-64. Note how the bluing finish in certain areas of the firearm wear off first. These are usually places where the gun rubs the holster, hand or body over an extended period of time. A variety of firearms have been shown in four-color to guarantee that your "sampling rate" for observing finishes is as diversified as possible.
It should be noted that the older a collectable firearm is, the smaller the percentage of original bluing finish one can expect to find. Some very old and/or very rare firearms are acceptable to collectors in almost any condition! The average collector, however, will probably never have the opportunity to purchase such a specimen.
NRA Condition Standards
MODERN CONDITIONS --
New -- not previously sold at retail, in same condition as current factory production.
Perfect -- in new condition in every respect.
Excellent -- new condition, used but little, no noticeable marring of wood or metal, bluing perfect (except at muzzle or sharp edges).
Very Good -- in perfect working condition, no appreciable wear on working surfaces, no corrosion or pitting, only minor surface dents and scratches.
Good -- in safe working condition, minor wear on working surfaces, no broken parts, no corrosion or pitting that will interfere with proper functioning.
Fair --in safe working condition, but well worn, perhaps requiring replacement of minor parts or adjustments which should e indicated in advertisement, no rust, but may have corrosion pits which do not render article unsafe or inoperable.
Selling a gun locally you can ask for more money.. A local sale, from one individual to another, is not recorded on FFL records unless your an FFL holder.. Lots of folks look for local sales just to buy a gun that is "off the books".. I maintain a record of advertising the gun in the papers so I can prove that the gun was up for sale, and I remember selling it..