Ain't like no 1911 I ever cleaned.

bigdaddyjunior

I give up.There is no locking barrel bushing to unlock.There is no two piece rod to take apart. I can't take apart the para p13 other than to remove the slide from the frame.I have to tune the extractor or adjust the ejector. The spent cases are popping me right between the eyes.I can't even do a thorough cleaning. Help.

Big Daddy my heros have always been cowboys,they still are it seems

gskyhawk

not sure if this will help but here's a link to their web site
http://www.paraord.com/pages/about/winningtechnology.html
phone number is 416-297-7855
good luck

Jody Commander

Before you remove the slide Assy. lock the slide back, should be a hole thru the spring guide, cut a pin that will go all the way thru the guide rod but is short enough to allow the recoil spring cap to be removed to the rear once the slide is removed. Place the pin thru the hole, release slide, remove slide lock, remove slide, you can now pull the recoil guide spring Assy. with the spring captured, to the rear. once the recoil Assy. is out,pull barrel out thru front of slide as usual.

instrumentofwar

Jody, I thought the Para's used a bushing?

Jody Commander

From the description of the problem, his gun uses the coned oversize barrel and rear flanged recoil spring cap system, traditional bushing is eliminated. It is used in the shorter "Compact" pistols where the slide is so short,during cycling the bushung would not allow the slide enough rearward movement to strip a new round from the top of the magazine, this reduction in "dwell time" often causes the problems outlined above. The shooter will have to adjust the angle on the ejector or the tension on his recoil spring,or extractor to get dependable feed and ejection.

bigdaddyjunior

Jody,after closer examination I find that there is indeed a bushing.It was so tight that it appeared to be fastened to the slide.My problem is still how to take the rod,recoil spring and barrel out of the slide.The end of the rod is shaped like an allen socket.There is a small slot recessed about 3/16 below the end of the rod.There is what appears to be a pressed in bushing for the rod.The rod/spring assembly cannot be removed rearward because the rear of the rod won't clear the link.It's almost got to have something to do with theallen head shape of the rod end and the little slot within.Please advise on the procedure.God I miss my Colt.

Big Daddy my heros have always been cowboys,they still are it seems

bigdaddyjunior

btt

Big Daddy my heros have always been cowboys,they still are it seems

bigdaddyjunior

Okay,the rod 'bushing'can be depressed similar to a Colt, but the end of the rod still does not allow turning of the barrel nut.Maybe a new rod has been installed that should have been ground down another 1/16.I'll play with it some more.

Big Daddy my heros have always been cowboys,they still are it seems

Jody Commander

Must be an older variation,pull slide bach to the milled slot in the guide rod, depress recoil spring cap, turn bushing to left, the bushing flanges should pass thru the milled slot, the recoil spring cap should then come out as standard 1911, remove cap and spring, remove slide and rod should clear lugs on bottom of the barrel, dis-assemble as usual after that.

bigdaddyjunior

Jody,I think there was definitely a new rod and spring installed by some yahoo.The rod stuck out of the open ended spring retainer cap a good 1/4" maybe a little more.I didn't mic it,but there was no way that barrel bushing was ever going to clear it.There also was no slot or groove cut into the rod.Smooth,same diameter the entire length.It looked as if some one had crudely filed the end of the rod to make it fit in there,but once the barrel bushing was locked it was never coming out.I locked back the slide and slowly ground the rod end until I could clear it buy a thousanth or two with the nut.I radiused a shoulder around the rod end to make it more attractive since it still protrudes through the cap about 1/8".It looks a lot better and it works properly now.Shot a couple mags to check it out.
Problem #2- How do I get the cases to eject to the right instead of over my head or in my face?


Big Daddy my heros have always been cowboys,they still are it seems

Jody Commander

Sounds like the ejector, if it has an extended ejector, file the face back some and cant the face so the cases will hit lower on it,WARNING!
ON EXTENDED EJECTORS DO NOT FILE IT SO AS TO CREATE A SHARP POINT, as this can hit the primer when ejecting a loaded round, earning the shooter a face full of hot gas and brass particles, if you have access to a standard Govt. model, try and duplicate that angle,also, on your extractor, if the hook is not beveled from the bottom a little, stone a small "leading" radius on the bottom front of the hook,what you are trying to do is have the extractor grip the case rim at "02:00 O'clock" instead of at "03:00 O'clock" position.

As for that full length guide rod, sounds as though some one had a bottle of Loc-tite and an urge, when all else fails, lock the slide back and hacksaw the thing and be done with it.

bigdaddyjunior

One gets used to trailing behind idiots cleaning up their mistakes.I sometimes feel my purpose in life has become to correct the best intentions of the incompetent.
When I'm in doubt I ask questions. I thank you for taking the time to answer them.



Big Daddy[less stupid than I was yesterday]Jr.