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What is the correct way to build this

bpostbpost Member Posts: 31,180 ✭✭✭✭
edited June 2006 in General Discussion
We ordered the cabinets for the kitchen.

Is it acceptable to put the tile down wall to wall and then put the cabinets on the tile floor? I have diamond cutters for the few holes we need for plumbing, so that is not an issue.

One friend said to put the hardi-backer down, place the cabinets on the hardi-backer and then tile up to the cabinets.

What are the acceptable ways of doing this task?

Thanks!

Comments

  • n/an/a Member Posts: 168,427
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bpost1958
    We ordered the cabinets for the kitchen.

    Is it acceptable to put the tile down wall to wall and then put the cabinets on the tile floor? I have diamond cutters for the few holes we need for plumbing, so that is not an issue.

    One friend said to put the hardi-backer down, place the cabinets on the hardi-backer and then tile up to the cabinets.

    What are the acceptable ways of doing this task?

    Thanks!


    I would set the cabinets and tile to them...this would be the standard proceedure.

    There's really no problem with setting them on a tile floor. The only thing is, if you need to level them up with shims/etc, you have less to hide the gaps at the bottom of the cabinets. If you tile to them, the tile should cover most of it...shoe moulding will take care of the rest.
  • FrancFFrancF Member, Moderator Posts: 35,278 ******
    edited November -1
    quote:Is it acceptable to put the tile down wall to wall

    I hope you have plywood backing for the cabinets on the walls. I have been haveing a problem with that lately for my handrail installs.

    Sheet rock and air. [xx(]
  • FrogbertFrogbert Member Posts: 2,380 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Either way. If you tile the whole floor first is accomodates changing out the cabinets in future remodles. If you build in the cabinets and then tile the floor, you can use edger tiles to keep the water used mopping and any from spillage or leaks from soaking the base of the cabinets at the kick space and causing mold in the wood.
  • AlpineAlpine Member Posts: 14,477 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I normally would not tile till I had the cabinets in. But it depends on how much time you have till the cacinets are to be delivered. If there is enough time to set tile, grout, and seal the grout before the cabinest are ready, I see nothing wrong with that. However the upper cabinets, and the lowers have to be level and straight, so shiming from the back wall and the floor is a must.

    Good luck on your project!
    ?The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money.?
    Margaret Thatcher

    "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
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  • n/an/a Member Posts: 168,427
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by FrancF
    quote:Is it acceptable to put the tile down wall to wall

    I hope you have plywood backing for the cabinets on the walls. I have been haveing a problem with that lately for my handrail installs.

    Sheet rock and air. [xx(]


    If you hit studs with your screws, this is a non-issue. Drywall behind the cabinets is all you need...just make sure you hit studs when fastening them.
  • dcon12dcon12 Member Posts: 30,837 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:just make sure you hit studs when fastening them.



    I think thats what the Law bees talkin bout. Don
  • FrancFFrancF Member, Moderator Posts: 35,278 ******
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by ECC
    quote:Originally posted by FrancF
    quote:Is it acceptable to put the tile down wall to wall

    I hope you have plywood backing for the cabinets on the walls. I have been haveing a problem with that lately for my handrail installs.

    Sheet rock and air. [xx(]


    If you hit studs with your screws, this is a non-issue. Drywall behind the cabinets is all you need...just make sure you hit studs when fastening them.


    Only problem with curved stair cases and framers studs are not always
    at the nose line. Its a catch 22 for us, we have to guess were stuff is going. Beacuse of changes we tell the builder/contractor we require 3/4" backing at least 40" off the nose for a stair case.

    We can fudge but we hate that.
  • Slow_HandSlow_Hand Member Posts: 2,835
    edited November -1
    If you tile the floor up to the cabinets be very sure that your dishwasher - assuming you have one - will actually slide in/out under the lip of the counter with the adjustable feet fully retracted BEFOREHAND. For many of my customers, I've had to saw the adjustable legs completely off of the dishwasher to get it out, remove the feet on the new one and then use wood shims in place of the legs once it was back in place to level it.

    Sounds like it's a no-brainer but there are a lot of tile installers who do not pay any attention to this one little measurement as they're mudding the floor and setting down the tiles. Some tiles are thicker than others and this should be measured as well.
  • n/an/a Member Posts: 168,427
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by FrancF
    quote:Originally posted by ECC
    quote:Originally posted by FrancF
    quote:Is it acceptable to put the tile down wall to wall

    I hope you have plywood backing for the cabinets on the walls. I have been haveing a problem with that lately for my handrail installs.

    Sheet rock and air. [xx(]


    If you hit studs with your screws, this is a non-issue. Drywall behind the cabinets is all you need...just make sure you hit studs when fastening them.


    Only problem with curved stair cases and framers studs are not always
    at the nose line. Its a catch 22 for us, we have to guess were stuff is going. Beacuse of changes we tell the builder/contractor we require 3/4" backing at least 40" off the nose for a stair case.

    We can fudge but we hate that.


    I was referring to the cabinets more than your application. I can see the need for solid backer in your application.[:)]
  • MVPMVP Member Posts: 25,074
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Slow_Hand
    be very sure that your dishwasher - assuming you have one - will actually slide in/out under the lip of the counter with the adjustable feet fully retracted BEFOREHAND.
    . Some tiles are thicker than others and this should be measured as well.


    I was going to mention the same thing.
    I have done countless kitchens for fire and water damaged homes for insurance companies and the tile dishwasher thing is what definatly needs to be watched for. No problem if the tile runs all the way to the wall under the cabinets, but needs to be watched very closely if a dishwasher is to be installed.
    I have seen a few kitchens that the owners tiled with the dishwasher in place and could not retract the feet far enough to remove the dishwasher.
  • remington nutremington nut Member Posts: 961 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    we typically put cabinet blocks all throughout the kitchen to accomodate installation of cabinets, to give you a solid line of wood to screw too all along the wall, not sure how many others do that but it sure makes hanging them suckers alot easier. and to answer the original question.... tile the floor last.... and screw your backer board down to the floor, i've seen some yahoo's nail it with long roofing nails....
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