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Welding copper
Blade Slinger
Member Posts: 5,891
Anybody fimilar with welding copper, we have a job 1-3/4" round stock that we have found to have inclusions. I have seen most welded materials in my adventures, but this is a new one to me. I realize that brazing and silver solder may work but we need to patch or weld with pure copper.
Comments
But did do a search and they have this
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/50157854/Copper_Welding_Rod.html
Anybody fimilar with welding copper, we have a job 1-3/4" round stock that we have found to have inclusions. I have seen most welded materials in my adventures, but this is a new one to me. I realize that brazing and silver solder may work but we need to patch or weld with pure copper.
I've worked with metal for years and have never heard of welding copper! Maybe there is some new technology that i'm not familiar with?
The reason for my madness is we have been stuck with nearly $100.000 worth of bad product 1-3/4" round solid, certs were late and product is inferior, came from peru?
quote:Originally posted by mango tango
quote:Originally posted by SLING BLADE
Anybody fimilar with welding copper, we have a job 1-3/4" round stock that we have found to have inclusions. I have seen most welded materials in my adventures, but this is a new one to me. I realize that brazing and silver solder may work but we need to patch or weld with pure copper.
I've worked with metal for years and have never heard of welding copper! Maybe there is some new technology that i'm not familiar with?
me neither!
those copper "welding rods" are for brazing. if you try and "weld" copper with electricity (amperage) it will disintigrate before it melts.
You must be way behind on the times.
Welding copper is not much different than welding steel.
TIG torch using bronze, brass or pure copper filler rod. The torch must be turned up hot.
Peddle controlled TIG works much easier than a scratch start unit. "Peddle power" can control the amount of heat applied. For once it get hot enough to take the rod and weld. It does not take much to keep the bead going.
Never did hear of any real ill effects from welding pure Copper unless it had corroded somewhat. Then it gives off fumes that will choke you very badly.
Copper to Copper. No Problem.
Copper to Cold rolled, Hot rolled, Stainless steel, Brass. No problem.
I guess so!
last time i used TIG it was only for aluminum![B)]
tom
It is very toxic and not recomended. But it can and has been done.
If I remember I'll make a few calls tomorrow to find some info.
http://www.brazing.com/techguide/procedures/copper_welding.asp
Ive been in and around all kinds of welding, almost every application save underwater welding, Originally posted by SLING BLADE[/i]
Your not missing out on anything, beside a very short life expectancy and a few 1000kw of enlightenment it aint worth it.
Trust me been there done that, they couldn't pay me enough to do it again[xx(]
Tig is how i'd do it
You can mig also maybe using an argon-nitrogen mix. Not sure on polarity but would start with reverse on the mig.
Use a good respirator, not a dust mask. Something like for painting with charcole elements.
In the old days oxy acet would work, but boy you better be skilled.
The mentions of inclusions has me concerned however, if they are within the rod, you may not be able to fix it.
He welds most anything with it, bet copper could be welded too.
How bad are the inclusions, how many and how large? What effect will they have on th eperformance of the round stock? Consider selling what you have and purchasing new/good stuff.
small Smith like oxy/acet torch.
http://www.geocities.com/bobscopper/
At about 195 amps set the Pulser
On time- 70%
Background-35%<
(may need to go up)
Pulse-10/20 per second
I will tell you unless you have to silver solder will be your better bet. I Tig weld for a living and copper can be a hit or miss if the alloys don't match.
Forgot to add, Like Aluminum Clean, Clean, Clean, Before you start otherwise you will be doomed from the get.
You could also use a number 15 Sil-floss rod and a turbo torch.
I agree with LesWVa and FrancF about the GTAW process, it's used a lot on CUNI (copper nickel) pipe for Navy ship's potable water lines.
You could also use a number 15 Sil-floss rod and a turbo torch.
I have run into the same problems with structural bronze in a pinch (Not Silicon bronze) If the base/filler is not the same, don't even try it. Silver solder has much better integrity for bonding/filling.
quote:Originally posted by Zebra
I agree with LesWVa and FrancF about the GTAW process, it's used a lot on CUNI (copper nickel) pipe for Navy ship's potable water lines.
You could also use a number 15 Sil-floss rod and a turbo torch.
I have run into the same problems with structural bronze in a pinch (Not Silicon bronze) If the base/filler is not the same, don't even try it. Silver solder has much better integrity for bonding/filling.
I didn't know you tig welded for a living. I've recenty got back into combination pipe welding and have my ASME Sec 9/98 AWS 1104 and 601 certs. There's a huge demand right now for good pipewelders. I've recently heard that 1000's of college kids are dropping out and taking up welding due to this tough economy right now.
quote:Originally posted by FrancF
quote:Originally posted by Zebra
I agree with LesWVa and FrancF about the GTAW process, it's used a lot on CUNI (copper nickel) pipe for Navy ship's potable water lines.
You could also use a number 15 Sil-floss rod and a turbo torch.
I have run into the same problems with structural bronze in a pinch (Not Silicon bronze) If the base/filler is not the same, don't even try it. Silver solder has much better integrity for bonding/filling.
I didn't know you tig welded for a living. I've recenty got back into combination pipe welding and have my ASME Sec 9/98 AWS 1104 and 601 certs. There's a huge demand right now for good pipewelders. I've recently heard that 1000's of college kids are dropping out and taking up welding due to this tough economy right now.
Coming up on 28 years of it. MiG/TiG
Thanks
quote:Originally posted by A J Christ
TIG it. Use helium and copper filler rod. Wear a resperator cause the fumes are gonna be rough. 1 3/4", going to need a lot of heat.
How bad are the inclusions, how many and how large? What effect will they have on th eperformance of the round stock? Consider selling what you have and purchasing new/good stuff.
Steel, SS, Aluminum, Ti, Hastelloy, Inconel.
Copper never had any properties that I could use. Besides electrical wire.
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
Awhile back I got a notice of class action from some lawfirm that was going to sue welding rod manufacturers. I guess word is out the fumes are harmful.
I did a partial chelation therapy instead, and felt worlds better and sharper. Probably should do it again, but after I get the rest of the lead out of my teeth.
I left the door open guys
The inclusions range in size from quarter inch by inch peal back, it is suposed to be solid, It seems to be lamanated. The finished product is upset forged after heating to 1400 degreese, bent into candy cane shape and milled to specs. The part is used on railroad or subway hot rails for comunication or train schedules, no room for error here.
Thanks
quote:Originally posted by A J Christ
TIG it. Use helium and copper filler rod. Wear a resperator cause the fumes are gonna be rough. 1 3/4", going to need a lot of heat.
How bad are the inclusions, how many and how large? What effect will they have on th eperformance of the round stock? Consider selling what you have and purchasing new/good stuff.
If the heating/forging process removes the inclusions, I'd think you could use it as is, if not, reject the whole batch. If the finished product need to be perfect, start with the best materials you can find or else you will be disappointed in the results. If there are inclusions where you can see them, I'm betting there are also some where you can't.