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Bush Hog problems
TrinityScrimshaw
Member Posts: 9,350 ✭✭✭
I need some help trying to figure out how to get my blades off my Bush Hog.
I have a model RZ60 5' Bush Hog. I broke a blade the other day, and I need to take them off to put new ones on.
The blades that are on it are the original blades. It takes a 1" 5/16 " socket with a 3/4" drive to grab the bolt. The owners manual says that when replacing the blades that you need to tighten the bolts to 420fps. So, I know the nuts are tight, and my Impact wont even budge them.
I have a 1/2" to 3/4" reducer on a pry bar, but I'm afraid if I put a cheater pipe on it the pry bar will just bend like a wet noodle.
My only other idea is to put some heat to the bolts, which I have sprayed liberal amounts of Liquid Wrench on.
I would appreciate any other ideas.
Thanks.
Trinity +++
I have a model RZ60 5' Bush Hog. I broke a blade the other day, and I need to take them off to put new ones on.
The blades that are on it are the original blades. It takes a 1" 5/16 " socket with a 3/4" drive to grab the bolt. The owners manual says that when replacing the blades that you need to tighten the bolts to 420fps. So, I know the nuts are tight, and my Impact wont even budge them.
I have a 1/2" to 3/4" reducer on a pry bar, but I'm afraid if I put a cheater pipe on it the pry bar will just bend like a wet noodle.
My only other idea is to put some heat to the bolts, which I have sprayed liberal amounts of Liquid Wrench on.
I would appreciate any other ideas.
Thanks.
Trinity +++
Comments
Soak in a penetrating oil like Kroil
After 8-12hrs soak
Hit it with a hammer to loosen the rust and gunk
reapply kroil and wait 8-12 hrs
Apply heat with Propane torch
Use a 1 5/16" air impact wrench socket(6 sided, thick walls) and a 4-6' pipe as a cheater bar on your biggest breaker bar. Just ease into it don't try to make it move all at once.
Reapply heat and hammer as needed you can also hit it with a impact wrench while you are doing this and it may help break it loose.
Make sure your impact wrench is on its highest setting and its getting 90-110 psi(or whatever its rated to)
It is not left handed, and can be reached from the top through a hole in the deck that is made just for extracting the bolt.
I don't have to remove the entire spindle from under the deck.
I am ready to do what reloader44mag suggested. I borrowed a large 1/2 drive and a heavy 6' pipe to cheat with. I will also be putting some heat to it.
Trinity +++
Only two Bolts And nuts[;)]
If Ya Can't get it Cutting Torch Zip the Nuts And Start Over
Only two Bolts And nuts[;)]
From the sound of it, I think I'd go directly to this.
Replace both of them at the same time and when you install the new ones. Apply some good quality Anti Seize.
If the bolts are full round, you might torch the nuts down to the major diameter of the threads and still save the bolts.
There's not a lot of room to work through that socket access hole in the deck and often even less if the cutter has a "stump jumper". Turning it on it's side might be a good option.
I just tried using a 3/4 drive breaker bar and cheater thru deck holes after warming up the nut. It didn't budge!
I didn't want to cut them off, because I wanted to try and save the cost of having to buy a new set. As it is the new blades alone will run me nearly $78. With a new bolt set I will be well over $100.
I'm not giving up yet, it's a challenge. I have a friend around the corner from me that has a cutting torch. I'll heat them with it, and if they still wont loosen I'll just cut the stubborn things off...[V]
Trinity +++
Impact wrenches vary from junk to fair to good to real good
to * kicker. If you dont have one, invest in a kick * impact.
If Ya Can't get it Cutting Torch Zip the Nuts And Start Over
Only two Bolts And nuts[;)]
thats how i do it, smoke wrench
I didn't want to cut them off, because I wanted to try and save the cost of having to buy a new set. As it is the new blades alone will run me nearly $78. With a new bolt set I will be well over $100.
Trinity +++
$78 for a set of blades??
Got a set of OEM 81395(Bush Hog) blades from McGee Farm Equipment out of Florence, MS for less than $60 and the bolts OEM RE7919 for less than $20.00.
McGee Farm Equipment is where I priced them. The shipping & handling here to NY puts it at $78.
I can get them at my local Tractor Supply for $34 each, but I don't pay tax there, and or S&H either. So, if I can get two there I may just go through TS.
Sad thing is that TS doesn't have the bolt replacement kits for my Bush Hog. I may have to go through McGee Farm Equipment for them, but again I will have to pay a stiff S&H fee.
Trinity +++
I'm thinking of this nut to take the whole thing off
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=implment&th=197970
Sir, your response wasn't appreciated.
It's sad to see that someone can't post around here, and ask a simple question requesting help or assistance without someone posting an insulting comment such as yours...[}:)]
Trinity +++
By this time in the project, I would have determined that my time was worth more than the $ 25.00 for the replacement nuts and bolts.
That said, I have pursued projects where my time became worth virtually nothing because I had an internal need to beat the damn thing.
Good luck, and have fun.
Brad Steele
discusdad,
Sir, your response wasn't appreciated.
It's sad to see that someone can't post around here, and ask a simple question requesting help or assistance without someone posting an insulting comment such as yours...[}:)]
Trinity +++
the truth not being appreciated, so what, if you dont like what you received stop asking for time tested advice.
its the smart thing to do, all things can not be saved for re-use
You too?...[V]
discusdad gave some great advice, but his first seven words, and his last wasn't called for, nor was your first five.
discusdad came back and made a very well stated reply explaining why I shouldn't reuse the heated nuts & bolts, and I am most likely headed in that direction.
What I don't appreciate is the insulting innuendo that seems to attach itself to almost every post that gets attention here on GB.
I have been a member here on GB Forums from the start, but lately I have kept my distance because of this type of stuff. It just seems that no one can maintain a civil mind set when replying to a post. It's like some folks here are hunting for a post where they can start something. I guess I should just let a sleeping dog be...[B)]
Trinity +++
donquote:Originally posted by TrinityScrimshaw
evileye fleagal,
You too?...[V]
discusdad gave some great advice, but his first seven words, and his last wasn't called for, nor was your first five.
discusdad came back and made a very well stated reply explaining why I shouldn't reuse the heated nuts & bolts, and I am most likely headed in that direction.
What I don't appreciate is the insulting innuendo that seems to attach itself to almost every post that gets attention here on GB.
I have been a member here on GB Forums from the start, but lately I have kept my distance because of this type of stuff. It just seems that no one can maintain a civil mind set when replying to a post. It's like some folks here are hunting for a post where they can start something. I guess I should just let a sleeping dog be...[B)]
Trinity +++
Steel expands 1 thou. per inch roughly at 200 degrees F, heat till i just glows a bit,let it cool and I bet it'll come off with just the breaker bar.(might have to give it a light tap) Hope they aren't L H thread.
Watch some of this fellow's video. No matter how smukkin Fart you are,we can all use some learnin..
The easiest way I found was to buy a 3/4 breaker bar, chock all 4 wheels, and stand on a 4 foot cheater bar.
Liquid Wrench was used like holy water.
work smarter not harder, giving your asking how to, means you never done it before, i was 12, when taught.
so you gotta be a greenhorn, you gotta take the good natured ribbn some time.everybody has
You can research torque multiplier if you don't know their reference.
Talk to a Heavy equipment mechanic (bulldozer, etc) and they will know what you need. Standard breaker bar without a torque multiplier is not going to cut the mustard IMHO. Also you will need to re-torque in the neighborhood of 450 ft pounds.
Good luck to you and stay safe.
Know of several guys that have become squashed permanently from getting under brush hogs w/o using good safety stands.
The attachment bolts on my machine are hardened so I didn't want to try heat them to remove them since the heat would have destroyed the bolt integrity. Instead I used my angle grinder to take the heads off.