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Broke it so should I replace it?

yoshmysteryoshmyster Member Posts: 21,980 ✭✭✭✭
edited October 2012 in General Discussion
My S&W 649-3 had the hammer block that broke in two. Since this one doesn't have the firing pin on the hammer I was wondering how critical I replace this?
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Comments

  • KEVD18KEVD18 Member Posts: 15,037
    edited November -1
    do you want the gun to operate as designed or do you want it to start creating new and interesting ways of doing things as the altered mechanics and physics start to work their way around?
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  • iceracerxiceracerx Member Posts: 8,860 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If the broken part is #22 on the schematic, then it is a non "critical fit" part and you should be able to replace it yourself.

    http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Smith-Wesson-/J-Frame-649-3-sid503.aspx
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  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The 649 has the slightly exposed hammer spur - same as the Model 38 or steel 49, correct?

    The hammer block serves two purposes, to prevent a discharge if the gun is dropped on its exposed hammer and to interpose itself if your thumb slips off the hammer spur lowering it from fully cocked. With the 49's configuration it's pretty unlikely, probably impossible, for a blow on the hammer to have that effect however the smaller and less grippy hammer spur could make a slip more likely.

    It costs about $5.00 for the part, is a drop in and all that's required is removing and replacing the sideplate. Has no effect on trigger pull, I'd say do it.

    If you don't replace it I would at the least remove what's left of the original part in the gun. I'm assuming the top part broke off. What you have (if not already removed) remaining in the gun is the lower half with a stem of steel occupying the lower half of the vertical cut in the sideplate. I habitually clean dust & pocket debris out of my 49, while unlikely as heck a speck of something could find its way into that sideplate groove and prevent that stem from riding up, stopping the trigger pull. You'd have to be about the unluckiest guy in the world for it to happen I agree, but why risk it.
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  • p3skykingp3skyking Member Posts: 23,916 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You should replace it with a Sig or a Browning. That will fix your problem.
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  • roswellnativeroswellnative Member Posts: 10,190 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The bottom line is that the gun will function fine but you (or anybody that ever uses the gun) MUST be careful to not lower the hammer too hard.

    The correct process would be to put pressure on the hammer (to the rear) then pull the trigger and before the hammer is lowered all the way to Release the trigger , thus engaging the block to ensure that the primer is not struck.


    Additionally even though "this one doesnt have a pin" is not a sufficient reason because the firing pin will be pressed by the hammer.

    I would replace it . But I do have an old .22 H&R that works fine and the block is broken.

    AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE HAMMER WITH FWD FORCE BECAUSE A ROUND WILL GO OFF , IF THE GUN HAS NO TXFR SAFETY BAR.
    Although always described as a cowboy, Roswellnative generally acts as a righter of wrongs or bodyguard of some sort, where he excels thanks to his resourcefulness and incredible gun prowesses.
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  • roswellnativeroswellnative Member Posts: 10,190 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    OR DROP IT...

    Just leave the chamber under the pin empty and all will be fine (until you lower the hammer just a little fast...)
    Although always described as a cowboy, Roswellnative generally acts as a righter of wrongs or bodyguard of some sort, where he excels thanks to his resourcefulness and incredible gun prowesses.
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  • peabopeabo Member Posts: 3,098
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by p3skyking
    You should replace it with a Sig or a Browning. That will fix your problem.


    WOW --- they make revolvers now? I didn't know that.
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  • p3skykingp3skyking Member Posts: 23,916 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by peabo
    quote:Originally posted by p3skyking
    You should replace it with a Sig or a Browning. That will fix your problem.


    WOW --- they make revolvers now? I didn't know that.


    Revolvers are soooo 20th century....
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  • gesshotsgesshots Member Posts: 15,678 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    In just about 99% of concievable situations, I would NOT feel under or out gunned if I was armed with "only" a revolver! [;)]
    It's being willing. I found out early that most men, regardless of cause or need, aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger. I won't. ~ J.B. Books
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  • yoshmysteryoshmyster Member Posts: 21,980 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    iceracerx - Yup that's the no nothing part that broke in half.

    dfletcher - The two pieces are out of the gun.

    p3skyking - I wasn't looking to spend that much on a fix [:D].

    roswellnative - It's easier for me to use the gun in double. After completing the trigger movement and I let go of the trigger. The hammer will move away from the firing pin. About 1/8" then you can't force the hammer up to the pin. If I keep one chamber clear she'll be a 4 banger.

    I wonder if it's the same crappy casting part? Wondering if I should get one from S&W or from Brownell's?
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  • Riomouse911Riomouse911 Member Posts: 3,492 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I bought a 13-2 that upon closer exam was missing that part. It didn't affect the function, but I like my guns to be whole and as close to factory original as possible. Especially since it's a "safety" part, I felt I should replace it. (With my luck I'd drop the dang thing at a range and it would hurt somebody next to me.)

    It took a quick trip to Numrich.com and about 12 bucks to have it shipped, and another 10 mins to put it back in place. Now it's back to its original form.
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  • searcher5searcher5 Member Posts: 13,511 ✭
    edited November -1
    Fix it. things need to be maintained. Nothing wrong with revolvers. I carry one a great deal of the time.
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  • bartman45bartman45 Member Posts: 3,008 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm curious as to if that part is made with that "mim" process I have read about........
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  • iceracerxiceracerx Member Posts: 8,860 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bartman45
    I'm curious as to if that part is made with that "mim" process I have read about........


    Most of the "MIM" of "PM" (powdered metal) parts are the hammers and triggers on newer S&W.

    The hammer block is a stamped piece. It might have been from a batch w/ bad heat treat depending on where it broke.

    Perhaps yosh can post some pics?
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  • JnRockwallJnRockwall Member Posts: 16,350 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by peabo
    quote:Originally posted by p3skyking
    You should replace it with a Sig or a Browning. That will fix your problem.


    WOW --- they make revolvers now? I didn't know that.


    That's cool, but not as cool as Obama's discovery that we now have ships that go under water!

    Who would have thunk that!??
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  • yoshmysteryoshmyster Member Posts: 21,980 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Riomouse911 - The way I figure most folks lived to walk another day carrying a S&W 49 without that bit of metal.

    searcher5 - Eventually.

    bartman45 - I don't know. Other than metal.

    iceracerx - Basically if you can see the pic off http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Smith-Wesson-/J-Frame-649-3-sid503.aspx #22 the lower club piece broke off from the thin strip in two.
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