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I tried for a oil finish

djh860djh860 Member Posts: 3,232 ✭✭✭
edited January 2012 in General Discussion
I don't like the way this gun looks. I soaked it for days in solvent but all the stains would not come out now I don't think it looks good with the oil finish.
Right now it has 5 or 6 coats of boiled lineed oil on it.
Any ideas on how to fix it? Should I just keep oiling it> should I , can I stain it now? Can I poly coat it? Fine the way it is?
This was the train wreck I bought here on GB and gave the seller an F feedback for being a liar and a cheat. Honestly I have at least a week of saturdays into this gun.
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Comments

  • GuvamintCheeseGuvamintCheese Member Posts: 38,932 ✭
    edited November -1
    Yea, tape off the checkering and use tru oil or linspeed. You are not going to get what you are looking for with BLO. Dont get the tru oil in the checkering because shiney checkering is a sure sign of a poor refinish. Make sure to sand lightly between coats with 000 steel wool. After your finished take the tape off checkering and us your linseed oil in there.
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  • fishkiller41fishkiller41 Member Posts: 50,608
    edited November -1
    Looks pretty sweet to me!!
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  • SawzSawz Member Posts: 6,049
    edited November -1
    What kind of look are you going for? polished look? rough look? medium rub look? For a polished look you will need some grain filler my favorite is one that is made with a stain. you stain and fill at same time. then put a good finish on it polyurethane works great for guns, choose satin semi or gloss depending on your tastes Im not much of an oil finish myself. it is however easy to repair.
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  • HandLoadHandLoad Member Posts: 15,998 ✭
    edited November -1
    My Favorite Gun has the Tru-Oil Finish - I think it is the best!

    Your Gun Looks Great! Use It, don't make it a Safe Queen!

    Good Enough, By My (Admittedly LOW) Standards!
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  • IdahoRedneckIdahoRedneck Member Posts: 2,699
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by cartod
    Yea, tape off the checkering and use tru oil or linspeed. You are not going to get what you are looking for with BLO. Dont get the tru oil in the checkering because shiney checkering is a sure sign of a poor refinish. Make sure to sand lightly between coats with 000 steel wool. After your finished take the tape off checkering and us your linseed oil in there.



    +1 on the tru oil.....great stuff[:)]
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  • bartman45bartman45 Member Posts: 3,008 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you are looking for a real oil finish, the linseed will work after many coats. Might take a look at tung finishes.
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  • peabopeabo Member Posts: 3,098
    edited November -1
    This is one I did using tung oil. Maybe that will give you what you are looking for. Sheds water like a duck too.

    100_1089.jpg

    100_1090.jpg


    Thanks---Peabo
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  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I will second the tung oil finish. What you have done so far is very impressive, don't beat yourself up too much... If you feel real bad let me know, I will send you my FFL's file copy so you can give it to me....[:D]
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  • SpartacusSpartacus Member Posts: 14,415
    edited November -1
    I like it!
    agree about tung oil. give a nice finish
    and easy to "touch up" in the future.

    tom
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  • mark christianmark christian Member Posts: 24,443 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think that it loos fine the way that it is. A "Plain Jane" oil finish is what I prefer.
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  • stegsteg Member Posts: 871 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    To properly oil finish a gun stock, for the first two or three coats, dilute the oil 1:1 with pure gum spirits of turpentine. Do not use wood turpentine or mineral spirits, as these will cause the oil to dry to a matte finish. When the initial coats are dry, then reduce the turps to a ratio of 1 turps:2 oil, then 1:3 , etc. until you get the degree of sheen you want.
    Boiled linseed oil will darken considerably within one year of application, and once it darkens you can't lighten it.
    You will get better results with something called Pale Drying Oil, which is a highly refined linseed oil with a drier added into it. You can get it at any art supply store. It is made by Grumbacher. It darkens far less than Boiled Linseed Oil A normal application will dry in 1 day at normal room temperatures
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  • asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The staining you have at the wood/metal joint is oil soak. Gun oil.
    You're going to have to remove the BLO and start over. Soaking in solvents may have actually driven it deeper into the wood.

    You are going to need a hot box, kitchen oven set on low will work. No hotter than 140 degrees. Brownells carries a product called Whiting (common corn starch can be substituted).
    Make a paste of lacquer thinner and whiting (corn starch) and apply a thick coat to the affected areas, wrap in tin foil and place in the warm oven for an hour or two. Remove it from the oven, unwrap and scrub with a Natural bristle brush to remove whiting/starch.
    Repeat untill staining fades to your satisfaction.
    note: Depending on what kind of oil was used on the gun you may not get all of the staining out.
    It's not the same as finish, but to check progress you can wipe the bare wood with alcohol. It will temporarily darken the wood to make any staining stand out.

    I may be mistaken, but I believe I see a crack in the left side of the fore end. At the upper front corner of the fore end iron? If so, that should be repaired prior to finishing.
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  • bullshotbullshot Member Posts: 14,718 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by peabo
    This is one I did using tung oil. Maybe that will give you what you are looking for. Sheds water like a duck too.

    100_1089.jpg

    100_1090.jpg


    Thanks---Peabo


    That's sweet, beautiful job. That is my favorite type of finish for rifles.
    "Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you"
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  • bullshotbullshot Member Posts: 14,718 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Peabo, what brand tung oil did you use? was it 100% pure Tung oil or a mix?
    "Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you"
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  • peabopeabo Member Posts: 3,098
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bullshot
    Peabo, what brand tung oil did you use? was it 100% pure Tung oil or a mix?



    This is what I use. I have had this quart for years -- it doesn't take much when you hand rub it on.
    I didn't thin it -- put it on just as it came in the can.

    The amazing thing is, that gun was $39.95 when new, and it had that great wood on it.
    I bought it used for $5 because it was in bad shape when I got it. It is an Ithaca model 49 single shot
    in .22 LR.

    a017bf87.jpg


    Thanks---Peabo
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  • bartman45bartman45 Member Posts: 3,008 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    With tung oil, also be careful on what you do with any rags that have the oil on them.
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  • Horney toadHorney toad Member Posts: 1,769 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'd keep using tung or tru-oil using more coats until the pores get full. Rub with 0000 steel wool between coats and after the final coat.
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  • victorj19victorj19 Member Posts: 3,642 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Horney toad
    I'd keep using tung or tru-oil using more coats until the pores get full. Rub with 0000 steel wool between coats and after the final coat.


    +1 Unless it is for a military stock. Then a stain and a good wax.
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  • fishkiller41fishkiller41 Member Posts: 50,608
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by mark christian
    I think that it loos fine the way that it is. A "Plain Jane" oil finish is what I prefer.

    SEE, the great minds thunk alike.
    That gun looks just beautiful to me,Maybe a few more coats will perk it up but,to me ,she's already a beaut!!
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  • FrancFFrancF Member Posts: 35,279 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bartman45
    With tung oil, also be careful on what you do with any rags that have the oil on them.


    +1 Cabinet shop next to my old business went up in flames in spontaneous combustion because of a pile of oil soaked rags that was no put in a fire rag can.
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  • GuvamintCheeseGuvamintCheese Member Posts: 38,932 ✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by fishkiller41
    quote:Originally posted by mark christian
    I think that it loos fine the way that it is. A "Plain Jane" oil finish is what I prefer.

    SEE, the great minds thunk alike.
    That gun looks just beautiful to me,Maybe a few more coats will perk it up but,to me ,she's already a beaut!!
    In a stark contrast I think the gun looks like a cheap military finish. Fine for battle rifles but for an italian shotgun it is not correct. It needs to have a lustre to match what it is.

    Pull the stock off of it and send it to me if you are frustrated. Ill refinish it and repoint checkering pro bono.
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