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Cleaning after shooting crossive ammo

redneckandyredneckandy Member Posts: 9,716 ✭✭✭✭
edited June 2008 in General Discussion
Whats the best way? I've got a bunch sitting on my shelf and an itchy trigger finger.

Comments

  • dheffleydheffley Member Posts: 25,000
    edited November -1
    Remove the fouling and copper/lead with a bore brush, then use soap and water first, then dry with alcohol and oil as usual.

    It's the salts that are crossive.
  • redneckandyredneckandy Member Posts: 9,716 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the replies. I've got a couple of Mausers just waiting to breathe fire again.[:D][:D]
  • BufflerBuffler Member Posts: 821 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I mix water and ammonia 50 /50. Clean with this,dry and then
    clean as usual with your regular solvents,oils,etc. Works for
    me!! This was the old formula years ago back when...
    BE SAFE!! Buffler
  • allen griggsallen griggs Member Posts: 35,694 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The Marines used corrosive ammo in WW2. Here is the way they cleaned their weapons.
    Put a pan of hot water on the floor. Put a squirt of dish soap in the water.
    Remove the bolt. Put a patch on the cleaning rod.
    Put the muzzle in the water. Run the patch down the bore all the way to the muzzle, then draw back to the chamber. You are drawing the hot soapy water through the barrel.
    Plunge that patch up and down the bore ten times. It will be bye bye to all the corrosive salts, and a bunch of other crud as well.
    Run a couple of dry patches through the bore and then clean as normal.
    Good enough for the Marines, good enough for me.

    I tried the ammonia trick. It works, but watch out for your stock! That ammonia will eat the finish right off the stock.
  • WulfmannWulfmann Member Posts: 4,906 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    As noted the corrosive primer leaves a salt residue.

    One of many methods are required before using oil/lubricants as the oil will actually harbor the corrosive salt.

    Boiling water will flush it out if poured down the bore and the heat will quickly dry the metal then oil and clean the bore as with non corrosive ammo.

    Remember, while ammonia kills the salt it too is corrosive so must be removed

    I prefer to clean as soon as I am done shooting my Mausers at the range.
    The Germans invented Ballistol in 1906 for their army.
    Biodegradable and mixing with water this is the most "any use" lube a gun owner needs.
    It is good on metal, wood, leather, even cuts and burns (not good for eyes and can not be ingested; swallowed)
    I leave it in the barrels between shooting and it preserves while continuing to lift carbon.
    It is great for corrosive because it can be cut one part Ballistol with 10 parts water and poured through the bore to wash out the salt residue. Then I clean the bore with 100% Ballistol leaving some in as noted. If it gets on the sling or wood stock, no problem it is good for them.
    Plus a 16 ounce can runs around $10.00 so it is actually much cheaper than other cleaners.

    If I still had a private range I might save more and have some boiling water ready and then clean with 100% Ballistol but a 10/1 diluted mix in an old 2 liter jug in the trunk means my K98ks etc are salt free within minutes of the last round.

    Didn't they go through enough back in the big one???

    Wulfmann
    3YUCmbB.jpg
    "Fools learn from their own mistakes. I learn from the mistakes of others"
    Otto von Bismarck
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