In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
Generator Problem
westernMDhunter
Member Posts: 2,938 ✭✭✭
I've got a Dewalt Generator and it won't keep running. When I set the choke on, it will start run a couple seconds then shuts off. It also has gas running out of it after it stops running. It is about 4 years old and never had any problems before. I like to start it and let it run every three to four months, but this time it just don't want to keep running. Any suggestions as to the problem?
Comments
i have to check teeh float needle they said it could be sticking
I've got a Dewalt Generator and it won't keep running. When I set the choke on, it will start run a couple seconds then shuts off. It also has gas running out of it after it stops running. It is about 4 years old and never had any problems before. I like to start it and let it run every three to four months, but this time it just don't want to keep running. Any suggestions as to the problem?
Start them once a month! and put Sta-bil http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/index.htmin the gas tank. I know its a pain but when you need them the most Gas and oil are #1 killers if not checked all the time.
Also if it has a low oil censer and they do get stuck/go bad, clean it out.
If it still won't run, then it is probably the float valve.
My money is on the oil sensor/oil level.
Add to that at least once a year drain out all the old fuel and put in fresh.
Every carbed unit I ever saw that was puking gas was from a stuck or leaky float (needle valve not closing when float bowl fills up) then it overflows. Sta-Bill treatment in the gas will keep the gas good for a longer storage period but will not work to clean and stop sediment in the fuel system from causing problems as being described, a good fuel filter between tank and carb will help take care of that. Another cause is letting the system dry out from setting between starts more common on systems the have a fuel cutoff between carb and fuel tank.
Hadda add that. Don't see it often since brass floats went by the wayside. [:)]
Allen
Before you disassemble everything.....
Go slow and think it out.
~~ drain the fuel tank. keep trying to start the engine until you are sure all or most of the old fuel is cycled out of the system.
~~ get a small pen light and peer inside the fuel tank. You are looking for rust. put your finger in the fuel tank through the fill port and rub the top of the tank and anywhere else you can feel. You are looking for rough, rusty places.
~~ if there's an in-line fuel filter, remove it and buy a new one, but wait to install it.
~~ coming off the outlet of the fuel tank, is there a valve or some type of needle assembly? If so, remove it. If it's brass or pot metal (soft), be very careful that you don't damage the thing or its threads. Blow it out with aerosol brake cleaner or WD-40.
~~ if the gas tank is rusty inside, remove it and make sure it is dry inside. blowing it out with compressed air will help, but be careful with your eyes and lungs. Wear protective eyewear and tie a scarf over your nose and mouth to prevent inhaling any particles. pour in plain kitty litter (a.k.a. DE or diatomaceous earth). seal the tank and get your kid to shake the tank good for one or two hours. Or, take it to your local paint/hardware store and get them to put the tank in their paint shaker for a couple rounds. dump the DE and all the particles of miscellaneous bs. blow the tank out with air or rinse with water. let dry. pour in some oxalic acid or swimming pool acid. The oxalic acid is sold in paint stores as kind of a blue or purple solution that claims to convert rust to a protective coating; I use this stuff. seal the tank and shake it, doing this about every five minutes for about half an hour. dump the acid. pour in some fuel, seal, shake and dump; do this a couple times. reassemble everything.
~~ if you have any fuel lines make sure they are clear. if you are getting gunky sh*+ out of the lines, replace them.
~~ try to reverse-flush the carburetor with brake clearner or WD-40 to blow out any particles or gunk that is causing the carb's internal parts to stick. don't use high pressure air for this.
~~ reassemble everything, making sure to replace any fuel filters your system has
~~ fill tank with only about a cup of fuel
~~ test run the device. if all is well, you are good to go, if not, bend over, put your head between your legs and kiss your own *. No, wait!! if you're sure about all the work you did, then it's most likely the carbuetor. gently remove it, having your X-acto knife handy. there's lots of small parts in these things so spread out a newspaper and lay down a cloth or paper towels to work on. spray those dry gaskets with WD-40 and let them soak in it for a few minutes before you gently pry them up with your X-acto knife; the intent here is to not have to buy a carb rebuild set. another goal is to disassemble as little as possible. Don't use even an aerosol spray here as little parts and such can be blown away. use instead a little trigger spray bottle with mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol; you're trying to wash any contaminents out of the carb and the jets. try NOT to unscrew or remove the jets or change any internal adjustments. all you're doing is cleaning, not overhauling. If there's a float in the carb, leave it, but they're usually some sort of clear/opaque plastic. get your pen light and shine it on the float to try to determine if there's any fluid inside the float, which means it is leaking. if it is leaking, it has to be replaced. see what a float costs, vs. a rebuild kit w/float vs. a small engine repair shop doing the repair if you don't feel good about messing with the carb. having it done could be the best way for you, but the work you did (if it was needed) to the tank had to be done anyway; the shop would have told you that you needed a new tank.
Whew........long winded, huh?
If it is truly dripping fuel, it will do that before it is started. That would point to stuck/sunk float or trash in the float valve.
Check the easy stuff first - look at oil level.