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Question for mechanics

iluvgunsiluvguns Member Posts: 5,351
edited November 2007 in General Discussion
Engine light came on in my 2001 Ford F-150 w/4.6 Triton. Coded for EGR. Took EGR off and cleaned it. Cleared code and all is well. Almost.
Now when RPMS drop to idle, such as when slowing to and coming to a stop. Get a strange humming noise. Sometimes only last a few seconds. Sometimes lasts as long as sitting at idle. Always quits as soon as RPMS are increased. Seems to be coming from somewhere on driver side of engine. Has not tripped engine light. Engines seems to run fine. Any ideas what it might be?
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Comments

  • iluvgunsiluvguns Member Posts: 5,351
    edited November -1
    I'm at my wits end with this.

    I have a 93 Chevy 1500 Z-71 4x4 regular cab, short box, 350 V8, AT, PS, CC, A/C, PB.

    About 18 months ago it started shaking at about 45-50 mph. Didn't matter if I was accelerating, decelerating or cruising at that speed, it still shook. Took it to 3 different shops since. I've spent over $1500 on this with no results. Don't ask why I spent $1500, it's a very long complicated story. Maybe I'll tell ya some day. [;)][V]

    Anyways, the following has been checked and found to be good or replaced with new.

    Tie-rod ends (new)
    A-arm bushings (good)
    Upper and Lower Ball Joints (good)
    Pitman arm (new)
    Drag Link (new)
    Center Link (?)
    Steering column (good)
    Steering gearbox (new)
    Brake rotors have been turned and new brake pads installed.

    Even took it to a quality frame and alignment shop. The alignment is right on the money and the frame isn't bent.

    About the only thing that hasn't been replaced are the shocks. I'll do that when I return home next week. We put new tires, 265/75R16 (rims cleaned, tires balanced), on it yesterday. There is no excess dirt, mud built up inside the rims. I do have a set of aftermarket aluminum alloy wheels from American Racing on the truck also.

    I still get the shake at about 45-50 mph, BUT it's not near as severe as it was. It's more like a shimmy now. Still bothersome.

    Do these trucks with IFS need any kind of steering stabilizer shock like the older Chevy's had?

    Any other things I need to check?[B)][B)][B)]
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  • iluvgunsiluvguns Member Posts: 5,351
    edited November -1
    I need a new A/C compressor on my truck. I would like to do it myself. I've got everything I need except a vacuum pump.

    Looking on fleabay I found this....
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R134A-AC-AIR-CONDITIONING-AIR-VACUUM-PUMP-A-C-TOOL-AUTO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34999QQihZ014QQitemZ330118085351QQrdZ1

    Do these work? Or should spend the extra cash on this type...
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FJC-4-CFM-Vacuum-Pump-HV-AC-R12-R134-Model-6910_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63700QQihZ011QQitemZ320111144412QQrdZ1
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  • iluvgunsiluvguns Member Posts: 5,351
    edited November -1
    I hate electrical problems, but I have one now. 1997 Ford F-150, 4.6 engine. During the last cold snap I went out to start it and the battery was dead. Ok, no big deal. The battery was old so I replaced it with a new one yesterday. Put he new battery in and it started right up and registered a normal charge rate. This morning I went to start it and the battery was dead. Obviously there is a drain on the battery when the ignition is off. I did notice that when I hooked up the cables that there was a spark. That should have been my first clue. It did seem to have an "electrical smell" when I drove it yesterday. Maybe a hot wire somewhere? The cruise control has recently quit. Where is a good place to start? Thanks for any help.
    Tom
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  • iluvgunsiluvguns Member Posts: 5,351
    edited November -1
    We have a 94 crown vic with the 4.6 engine.
    At speeds of 45 mph and higher, the car jerks or misses.
    I took it in for repair and had it analyzed. They even checked the exhaust but nothing was found to cause this problem. The car was tuned about 5000 miles ago. Can anyone give me an idea as to what is going on? i thought it was the EGR valve but it checked out O.K.

    shoot2.gif
    Where there is no vision,the people perish!
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  • iluvgunsiluvguns Member Posts: 5,351
    edited November -1
    Wife came home and said her car was "acting up." Went out to look and have her give me a run down. The power drivers seat won't move, the power door locks quit (won't lock or unlock with the key chain thing-a-ma-jig either), power windows won't move, ABS light and the Air Bag light both stay on. Checked for a blown fuse...nothing. Looked in the "Power Distribution Box" under the hood. Fuses for ABS and air bags were good and seated OK. The connections on the battery were pretty corroded, so pulled them off and cleaned them. After that, the windows work, but nothing else. I am going to take it to AutoZone and have them check the battery and alternator, but outside of that, I am clueless on electionics. Where else should I look?? Thanks.

    BTW....2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. 3.3 flex-fuel engine.
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  • cheezecheeze Member Posts: 815 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Check alt and battery first.
    Sounds like the alternator quit and the battery is getting low. Be careful though, you may not make it to the store.
    If thats not it then I'd say check the front grill, if there's still a "Dodge" emblem on it try switching it to a "Toyota" emblem. Worked wonders for me.
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  • jtmarine0831jtmarine0831 Member Posts: 908 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Iluvguns, Don't mind the "Fools" that don't like Dodges(just messin' cheeze). I quite possible could be the alternator. Did you check the fusible links? On the wires coming from the starter back to the battery and power distribution box there are sections of wire at the starter that act like fuses. Feel them and see if they look burnt or discolored or if they feel crunchy. Also at the battery terminal split the coating on the wires coming from the positive side with a knife or razor and see if the corrosion you found on the terminals is present in the cables as well( just remember to tape them back with electrical tape). There are so many possible things that I can't even begin to name them all and don't garuntee anything I have mentioned is the cause, just some places to start. Anywho, good luck!
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  • jwb267jwb267 Member Posts: 19,664 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    check all the ground wires, battery ,altenator, body to frame. pull the positive lead off the battery and start the engine. if it runs your altenator is putting out
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  • jtmarine0831jtmarine0831 Member Posts: 908 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by jwb267
    check all the ground wires, battery ,altenator, body to frame. pull the positive lead off the battery and start the engine. if it runs your altenator is putting out


    It is a computer controlled vehicle, it wouldn't run if you pulled lead off the battery and the alternator was good anyway. Never pull the positive off a computer controlled vehicle with out first removing the negative or severe ECM damage can occur.

    But checking all the grounds is definately a good idea.



    JWB267 I know how it is to be used to the old ones ol' buddy!!![:D]
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  • jwb267jwb267 Member Posts: 19,664 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by jtmarine0831
    quote:Originally posted by jwb267
    check all the ground wires, battery ,altenator, body to frame. pull the positive lead off the battery and start the engine. if it runs your altenator is putting out


    It is a computer controlled vehicle, it wouldn't run if you pulled lead off the battery and the alternator was good anyway. Never pull the positive off a computer controlled vehicle with out first removing the negative or severe ECM damage can occur.

    But checking all the grounds is definately a good idea.


    sorry, just used to the old ones
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  • dolfandolfan Member Posts: 4,159
    edited November -1
    Good luck, iluv...electrical gremlins are a royal pain to trouble shoot.
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  • frog21frog21 Member Posts: 1,745 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Start with what jtmarine said,if you don't find anything there.Try checking wiring in door jam,sometimes wires break from opening and closing door.
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  • CubsloverCubslover Member Posts: 18,601 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I may be mistaken, but I think most ABS and SRS systems are also run through relays to protect the expensive componets.

    Check them, pull them out for a few minutes, then plug them back in.

    They may need replaced.
    Half of the lives they tell about me aren't true.
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  • tomahawktomahawk Member Posts: 11,826
    edited November -1
    check out the wiring harness that runs under the carpet to the seats, do this by unplugging at the seats,(under them) and use a test light. see if they are hot. if not , find the wire and trace it back under the dash to where it is a bundle. this is where th lights and door ,windows seats etc all come together and in that mess are more fusible links. battery must be showing about 14 volts, or you could have a dead cell. 12 will start the car but not run all electrics. seats and such are first to fail
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  • iluvgunsiluvguns Member Posts: 5,351
    edited November -1
    Thanks for all the answers! Dark out now. Will let AutoZone load test battery and alternator tomorrow morning, and go from there. I hate newer cars. My 60 Plymouth, I can do anything to it that needs doing, and have. But this new stuff stinks!
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  • frog21frog21 Member Posts: 1,745 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    To bad mechanics can't do like doctors.Put 2 aspirin in the radiator if problem persist in the morning come back again.By the way that will be 75 dollars[:D]
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  • jtmarine0831jtmarine0831 Member Posts: 908 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by frog21
    To bad mechanics can't do like doctors.Put 2 aspirin in the radiator if problem persist in the morning come back again.By the way that will be 75 dollars[:D]



    Frickin' Doctors!![}:)][xx(]
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  • dclocodcloco Member Posts: 2,967
    edited November -1
    The battery cables are junk - from the acid leaking out of the battery posts.

    A - replace battery

    B - replace cables (pay me now, or let me tow you later)

    C - check alternator - if vehicle is approaching 100K mark, replace it - as it has been working overtime trying to charge through the nasty corrosion that has been building up over the last year.
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  • nunnnunn Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 36,083 ******
    edited November -1
    I had a Caravan in which the battery went bad. It was a dead cell. I could jump it off and it would start, but there wasn't enough voltage to run the computer. NOTHING worked right. The headlights came on by themselves. The door locks and windows didn't work. The transmission would not shift properly. New battery and all was well again.
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  • 180A180A Member Posts: 828 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think it's a battery post/cable corrosion problem and/or a bad battery.

    Let us know how it ends up.
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  • D1D1 Member Posts: 11,412
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by 180A
    I think it's a battery post/cable corrosion problem and/or a bad battery.

    Let us know how it ends up.
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