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Mechanically minded folks
joshmb1982
Member Posts: 8,228 ✭✭
When buying a brand new vehicle. Would it be advantageous to put an engine oil and transmission oil cooling system in?
I know in a vehicle intended to tow loads it would be a good idea. But would it be worth it to do it on say my Subaru which sometimes towes a lawn tractor 10 miles at a time.
Engine oil and transmission oil running cooler continuesly would extend their life and cause less wear no?
Would it cool the transmission oil to much when not towing in the winter?
I know in a vehicle intended to tow loads it would be a good idea. But would it be worth it to do it on say my Subaru which sometimes towes a lawn tractor 10 miles at a time.
Engine oil and transmission oil running cooler continuesly would extend their life and cause less wear no?
Would it cool the transmission oil to much when not towing in the winter?
Comments
Winter conditions?? Where you live??
My mechanical experience is limited to old German air cooled vehicles, and excessive moisture in the oil combined with the piston and push rod movement could actually make an emulsion of the oil and moisture. Not good. Always be sure you can get the oil up past 212f to drive off the water...
When buying a brand new vehicle. Would it be advantageous to put an engine oil and transmission oil cooling system in?
I know in a vehicle intended to tow loads it would be a good idea. But would it be worth it to do it on say my Subaru which sometimes towes a lawn tractor 10 miles at a time.
Engine oil and transmission oil running cooler continuesly would extend their life and cause less wear no?
Would it cool the transmission oil to much when not towing in the winter?
Check with the service dept of the brand of vehicle. This is so you don't void the warranty accidentally. Typically it don't hurt anything, but with the new computer controlled 9 speed transmissions, who knows how it will affect the pressure, flow rates, overall volume and time to prime.
You don't need extra coolers.
If you want to spend a little money on something worthwhile, get instrumentation.
Amp meter, Oil temp, oil pressure, and vacuum are really good ones to have. I also had volts DC, cyl head temp, and a tach since the VW didn't have them.
I used VDO but there's a lot of brands available. If you know how to read and interpret them, you will never destroy an engine except in a wreck. If you ever start to overheat, pull over under the cottonwoods and heat up your babe while your car cools. [:p] That's what I did in the bus. [}:)]
Also that 10 miles was just what I commonly tow. Driving conditions I frequently drive 2-6 hours. either to work and back every two weeks or up to visit friends and family 6 hours away in CT.
I realise that a transmission cooler is not required in most vehicles. Just thought it might be a good idea. And the probability is there that I will on a yearly basis be either towing someing to a vacation spot around 8 hrs away or just driving that far.
Unless you are going to need it, adding them is not worth the time or cost.
I mentioned this as more of a preventative maintenance thing more then anything.
Also that 10 miles was just what I commonly tow. Driving conditions I frequently drive 2-6 hours. either to work and back every two weeks or up to visit friends and family 6 hours away in CT.
I realise that a transmission cooler is not required in most vehicles. Just thought it might be a good idea. And the probability is there that I will on a yearly basis be either towing someing to a vacation spot around 8 hrs away or just driving that far.
Vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission come from the factory with a transmission fluid cooler. It's part of the radiator.
If you have a 'standard' or manual transmission, there is no oil/fluid pump to move the oil/fluid through a 'cooler'.
The manufacturers pretty much have you covered. Pulling a trailer up Baker Grade is part of the testing process in Detroit (well Michigan anyway).
As was already posted, you don't need any additional 'coolers'.
EDIT: Ask your dealer about a 'tow package' option for the vehicle.
Change your oil regularly. Switch to a synthetic around 20 or 30 thousand miles. Check the cooling ability of your coolant. Use the factory recommended oil (weight) and coolant mixture and you should be 'good to go'
Would only be a problem if towing that load up the side of a mountain in death valley type heat.
Leave them alone; you will get 300K out of your subbie as long as you are the type that maintains things as suggested. You will probably find 5-20 or 0-20 oil in the motor too. It is as thin as water for a reason.
Also oil needs to get hot enough to burn out water and other contaminates that are caused by running the engine. Running the oil to cold is a really bad idea.
If you have a need to tow heavier loads, you need a larger truck or car.
I put an external oil cooler in my aircooled VW Bus because I crossed the desert and climbed the Grapevine frequently.
You don't need extra coolers.
If you want to spend a little money on something worthwhile, get instrumentation.
Amp meter, Oil temp, oil pressure, and vacuum are really good ones to have. I also had volts DC, cyl head temp, and a tach since the VW didn't have them.
I used VDO but there's a lot of brands available. If you know how to read and interpret them, you will never destroy an engine except in a wreck. If you ever start to overheat, pull over under the cottonwoods and heat up your babe while your car cools. [:p] That's what I did in the bus. [}:)]
I have the other kind of old German air cooled vehicle, still 4 cylinders though
I put an external oil cooler in my aircooled VW Bus because I crossed the desert and climbed the Grapevine frequently.
You don't need extra coolers.
If you want to spend a little money on something worthwhile, get instrumentation.
Amp meter, Oil temp, oil pressure, and vacuum are really good ones to have. I also had volts DC, cyl head temp, and a tach since the VW didn't have them.
I used VDO but there's a lot of brands available. If you know how to read and interpret them, you will never destroy an engine except in a wreck. If you ever start to overheat, pull over under the cottonwoods and heat up your babe while your car cools. [:p] That's what I did in the bus. [}:)]
Exhaust gas temp is far more useful than head temp. By the time trouble is spotted via the temp of the head the pistons/rings are usually toast.
Same got for the heat couplings for Spark plugs.