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quik knife sharpening help
buschmaster
Member Posts: 14,229 ✭✭✭
got a used whetstone that's clogged with gunk from sharpening stuff? scrub it with comet, water and a washcloth, gets it clean as new.
totally destroys the washcloth though.
totally destroys the washcloth though.
Comments
if I did, we'd forget about the dishwasher and be running around naked right about now. [;)]
It's a good question, I usually use warm water and a brush or steel wool when it gets a little gunky.
If, when you get the stone clean, you use a drop of oil or two when honing a knife, it will serve to lift the gunk out of the stone's pores, and you can easily wipe it off with a paper towel. That'll puts lots of distance between those carb cleaner or WD40 jobs.
I've sharpened knives lots of ways over the years, from carborundom stones, to files, sanders, even Arkansas stones. I find that if I start with a sharp knife, the system that uses two ceramic sticks placed at the proper angle in a wooden base is absolutely the cat's meow. A few swipes between the sticks, holding the knife straight, and it will be sharp. However, I like to finish mine with a few strops on a razor strop (sold by BELKNAP HARDWARE about 80 years ago at the whopping price of $2.50....to the Kentucky State Penitentiary in Eddyville, Ky....then stolen by my late father-in-law, when he was a youngster, and handed down to me 30 years ago).
For a truly dull knife, I use a home-made sander with differing belt grit sizes.
Sahagan
I agree, Sahagan. I needed seriously sharp knives yesterday, I had to gut,skin and quarter a big deer.
I used the ceramic sticks, they really work great, and are so simple. Just hold the knife vertically and it will get real sharp.
It's funny, I got out two butcher knives, and a fish fillet knife, and tried them all. But, I wound up doing virtually the entire job with my hunting knife, a little folding Gerber with a 3 1/2 inch drop point blade, that I bought at KMart 25 years ago for $12. What a great, handy knife. For quartering the deer, thank God for the Gerber, and the Sawzall!
When the sticks get dark with steel particles from the knife, just clean them with Comet.
I always put clogged stones in the campfire and burn out oil and all. They come out like new. A little hot though.
Sharpening steel is for after the stone, and puts a roughness on the edge like a serration.
That is partly true. It is for use after the stone but does not make the edge rough.
It aligns the bent over serrations on a microscopic level and straightens the edge. It can be done right after sharpening but the best effect is to wait 24 hours after the stone because the serrations will be done spreading apart by then and the honing action of the steel will get more of them straight.
I have done extensive studying of sharpening since I started shaving with a straight razor. Did some book learning and talked to an old timer professional sharpener. I actually shave with the blades I sharpen,and get a closer shave than the newest 10 blade gimmick sold!
Yes they still make them 7 to a set but very expensive to buy this way.
The reason for this is that due to the rotation a sharpening is only required once a year and the strop keeps the edge sufficient for shaving. The blades will last much longer if they only have to be honed once a year. Also they stay sharper if given time to rest (24 hours)between stropping.
I have 20 straight razors. I just got 18 of these and am in the process of picking out my 7 and getting a case made.
Every morning I get to use a badger brush and get a good hot lather up and shave with a fine German hollow ground straight razor. I use alum blocks and Lucky Tiger after shave on the face. When the neck needs a touchup I shave it use an antique barber brush to apply talc powder.
Some of my razors are pushing 100 years old. I have a repair kit for fixing handles and rivets also. I have a badger brush and shaving mug that are also around 100 years old, other ones which are newer. One of my strops is 100 years old, the one I use is Russian and was bought in the 50s. The stuff I use dates from around 1910 to the 1960s.
My great grandfather opened his barbership around 1910 and it was in continuous operation until just a few years ago. He did the old fashioned barber thing for 70 years. My grandfather joined him in the 1930s and worked there for 65 years. My grandfather just passed away this past summer.
I was asked if I wanted anything from the estate and the only thing I wanted was all his old barbershop equipment(I also inherited a Winchester which has sentimental value to me). Nobody else wanted any of the barber stuff so I inherited it. Remembering how close the shave was and to honor the two of them I learned how to shave with the stuff.
It really was a true old fashioned experience going in there for a haircut and shave! The both of them had graduated from barber colleges and were PROUD of the work they did. Real professional barbers are rare and hard to come by anymore. Lot of stylists and sissy stuff but few real barbers anymore! Just go into a modern harcut place and ask for a shave and see what they say.
Most of the furnishings and equipment were antiques. The place had marble walls and mirrors all around. The shelves were full of old hair tonic potions, snake oils, and aftershave. Some of these are still made and I ordered some for the authenticity as well as the smell.
Almost forgot-if you buy the styptic powder for cuts it does not sting like the styptic sticks do!
that's a shame your family's barber shop ain't no more.