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Serpentine belt replacement
jonk
Member Posts: 10,121
So I had an oil change today and the mechanic pointed out that the transmission pan gasket had a leak and that my serpentine belt could stand replacing. I don't care so much about the leak, as transmission fluid is cheap and that gasket has had a slow leak in it for about 3 years now, but the belt got my attention. I looked myself, and sure enough, it was cracked a bit. Not enough to say, 'eep it's gonna break soon', but enough to think that replacing on the next free weekend is a good idea.
Now being a cheap sort (I usually change my own oil, too, but also had a tire rotation and didn't feel like doing all that work with the cruddy little jack I have), I would be inclined to change the belt myself. Question: How complex is this? Car in question is a 93 Ford Tempo, and other than loosening the tensioner and worming the thing around all those pulleys in a knuckle-breaker tight area, it doesn't sound complex; the belt costs $24 at autozone, and the mechanic would charge $70 to install it.
Now being a cheap sort (I usually change my own oil, too, but also had a tire rotation and didn't feel like doing all that work with the cruddy little jack I have), I would be inclined to change the belt myself. Question: How complex is this? Car in question is a 93 Ford Tempo, and other than loosening the tensioner and worming the thing around all those pulleys in a knuckle-breaker tight area, it doesn't sound complex; the belt costs $24 at autozone, and the mechanic would charge $70 to install it.
Comments
I dont know about the installation procedure for Taurus, but I suggest you take a very good look at exactly how the belt is supposed to fit on, which side of the belt is u, what order the pulleys are in. Maybe even draw yourself a diagram of how its supposed to fit.
Just make sure the decal with the belt routing is there for reference, if it's not draw a picture of how it goes around the pulleys/tensioner before starting so you know which way it goes.
Get a socket or wrench that fits the bolt on the tensioner (some you have to use a socket to reach up inside the tensioner pulley if it's recessed. Then make sure the wrench or ratchet handle is long enough to get good leverage to pull the tension off of the belt. If not, get a longer wrench or handle ( a long 1/2" socket wrench handle usually works good ) or some thing to use over it for leverage ( like a short piece of pipe for a "snipe" ).
After removing the old belt, install the new one around all the pulleys except the one on the tensioner, or the one that's easiest to reach next to where you will standing while pulling on the extended handle, then pull the tensioner down far enough to slip the new belt over the pulley. Sometimes a large screwdriver can be placed on the edge of the pulley and under the belt to guide it over the edge. Sometimes they won't be perfectly aligned on the pulley belt guides at this point, but if it's not you can usually just start the engine and let it run for a few seconds and they will center/aligne themselves. Then turn the engine back off and double check the belt around each pulley.
Good Luck..........................[^]
I haven't tried that particular model, but all of the others I have done took longer to get the tools out and put away than it did to do the job.[:)]
I've noticed that too.[:D]
Ben
Don't throw it away.
On my truck, you just find a socket that fits the nut on the tensioner. Put it on a long bar. Crank down on the tensioner and off comes the belt.