S&W Bodyguard Trigger problem

diver1

I have noticed when I shoot this pistol that the trigger does not always reset. I pull the trigger and manually move my finger forward to allow the trigger to reset. I have tried several different bullets with thee same result. At the gun shop we can pull the trigger ( dry fire ) without malfunction, but at the range it's a consent condition. I looked at other post and have not seen this complaint. Has anyone one else experienced or heard of this problem. Thanks

ChrisInTempe

I'm not familiar with the problem. Just want to point out there are a number of semi-autos and revolvers that Smith & Wesson calls "Bodyguard". Some have Crimson Trace Lasers, some do not. There are .380ACP, .38 Special and .357 Magnum.

Which model Bodyguard do you have?

Which caliber?

booger

My auto pistol experience is that some guns have a "longer", and thus noticeable, reset than others. Anything double action/single action and certainly all double action only (DAO) will be very noticeable.

I haven't' shot the auto bodyguard, but I'm guessing that it's DAO with a long reset. (The long reset is 1/2 inevitable due to design and the other 1/2 is for the safety lawyers).

Solution: keep shooting until you no longer notice or trade 'er in.[8D]

diver1

It is a semi auto in 380

1911a1-fan

one more reason S&W should only make revolvers, along with ruger

Big Sky Redneck

I have a Bodyguard in 380 auto and the only issue I have is accidentaly hitting the mag release while firing and dripping the mag.

ChrisInTempe

Haven't had any troubles with my Ruger semi-auto.

Wanted a S&W Bodyguard 380 when they came out but they were going well above retail. So I bought the Kel-Tec P3AT with a Crimson Trace on it.

As state earlier, these double action only pocket guns have a long reset. Takes getting used to. If it sticks though, that's either dirt or a malfunction. Suggest start with a very complete clean and lube before suspecting a broken or worn part.

You'd likely have to try S&W directly for original parts, or search on GB auction side.

Lots of YouTube videos on your gun. Here's one on an aftermarket trigger, it's a two-part video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8BKeIRnYyU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wo-C0sweWc

I found the manufacturer of that trigger here:
http://gallowayprecision.com/

Don't know anything about them, just what I see on the web.

TANK78Z

do you have stock or after market springs in it?
Is it a high round gun?
I have seen this type of condition on striker fired guns , (which I think yours is) it was a weak firing pin spring that was substituted while doing a "trigger" job.
If yours is stock it just may be a little weaker then standard, or something gumming up the works where the trigger bar is attached to the trigger?
Only guesses by me of course, if the guy at the gun shop is a gunsmith I would think he would have broken the gun down completely for inspection. Did he?
If he's not a gunsmith, it might be best to find one.
This does not seem to be a very safe gun right now.

I stand corrected, it is a hammer fired gun, Thank you.

ChrisInTempe

It's a hammer fired gun. Hammer is mostly concealed, barely sticks out the slide just before letting loose to fire. Similar to Kel-Tec and Ruger pocket guns.

1911a1-fan

have someone else shoot it, you could be experiencing "trigger freeze"


I only had it happen once, after one summer of revolver shooting going for my 5 gun master tittle, I went back to a 1911, 6 weeks and 5,000 rounds later it happened at a big match, muscle memory was still shooting a revolver, I thought I was above trigger freeze, but learned a valuable lesson


and I have seen it happen to many others

diver1

Thanks for the help. newer gun, no trigger job.