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Radial Arm Saw
Mr. Perfect
Member, Moderator Posts: 66,437 ******
Local ad for a radial arm saw, and I figure I'm in need of one. This saw runs on 240V however and I would have to wire for it. It would use up the last slot in my panel. Saw is an older Craftsman 12". Saw is $100 would you do it?
Some will die in hot pursuit
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Comments
Saw is $100 would you do it?
I would never do a saw at any price. Don
quote:Originally posted by Mr. Perfect
Saw is $100 would you do it?
I would never do a saw at any price. Don
Oh, don't try to lie to us. I'm sure you have a price.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Wiring can always be solved later. [;)][:D]
quote:Originally posted by dcon12
quote:Originally posted by Mr. Perfect
Saw is $100 would you do it?
I would never do a saw at any price. Don
Oh, don't try to lie to us. I'm sure you have a price.
its the 12 inch part that turned his stomch
If it is old the first thing I would do is test for 90 and 45 degree accuracy, also find a piece of THICK green lumber and see if it bogs down any.
Wiring can always be solved later. [;)][:D]
With radials I've used if it's out of square, you just adjust it some (tilt the table, or the head, or the arm) no?
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
quote:Originally posted by gesshots
If it is old the first thing I would do is test for 90 and 45 degree accuracy, also find a piece of THICK green lumber and see if it bogs down any.
Wiring can always be solved later. [;)][:D]
With radials I've used if it's out of square, you just adjust it some (tilt the table, or the head, or the arm) no?
90 degree angle test should not only include a cross cut check, but a vertical test as well......is the blade perpendicular to the bed.
save the last slot for a 100 amp then throw it to a kicker panel
I have 200amp service for the whole place. I was thinking 50amp breaker. What's the advantage to doing it your way? Seems like it has the potential for too much draw, if I get tempted to add more breakers in the kicker.[:D]
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
quote:Originally posted by Mr. Perfect
quote:Originally posted by gesshots
If it is old the first thing I would do is test for 90 and 45 degree accuracy, also find a piece of THICK green lumber and see if it bogs down any.
Wiring can always be solved later. [;)][:D]
With radials I've used if it's out of square, you just adjust it some (tilt the table, or the head, or the arm) no?
90 degree angle test should not only include a cross cut check, but a vertical test as well......is the blade perpendicular to the bed.
Thanks.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
For wiring instead of adding another breaker you might be able to use the existing 110 and then tie into another line that won't be used when the saw is running, which would save your last slot.
Well, in my garage, I think I'd prefer it be on a good breaker all its own. Adding the 240v service would also allow me to run my arc welder, so I think I'm going that route. Just hadn't planned on taking on a wiring project with all the other things I'm currently working on around the place right now.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
quote:Originally posted by Ray B
For wiring instead of adding another breaker you might be able to use the existing 110 and then tie into another line that won't be used when the saw is running, which would save your last slot.
Well, in my garage, I think I'd prefer it be on a good breaker all its own. Adding the 240v service would also allow me to run my arc welder, so I think I'm going that route. Just hadn't planned on taking on a wiring project with all the other things I'm currently working on around the place right now.
+1 do the 220 route, you will never be running the saw and the welder at the same time, unless you truely are perfect..........
most large stationary shop tools such as that one, can quickly be changed to 110, There is a schematic on the motor acess panel(where the wires go into the motor) that give the correct configuration for 110 or 220. Radial arms are most effective if you have a lot of the same cuts to make, as in a csbinet shop or factory. Smaller job site saws are portable, allow quick change between operations, for trim etc.
I was thinking that might be the case. I just looked at an ad for a different craftsman saw where one of the pics showed how to wire it for 120 or 240.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Re your electrical wiring situation - if you don't want to use those last slots in your panel you could replace some of your single pole breakers with tandem breakers, sometimes referred to as "piggyback" breakers. They provide two 120 volt breakers in one panel slot. Simpler than installing a subpanel. And each tandem breaker installed frees up one slot in your panel. Just a thought.
Not a bad idea.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
50amp? I'd think a 20a 220 would be adequate. Radial arm saws are a dime a dozen on {elsewhere}. I bought a Delta for $50 last month, looked like new. Lots of guys buy them and don't know how to set them up or use them. I have built lots of stuff with mine. Ripped birch plywood to 23" wide for a pantry. Cutting dados is a snap on a RA saw. Don't bother cutting angles with a RA saw, buy a miter saw, again CL, cheap.
The welder draws a fair bit of current.[:D]
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
most large stationary shop tools such as that one, can quickly be changed to 110, There is a schematic on the motor acess panel(where the wires go into the motor) that give the correct configuration for 110 or 220. Radial arms are most effective if you have a lot of the same cuts to make, as in a csbinet shop or factory. Smaller job site saws are portable, allow quick change between operations, for trim etc.
The technical term for that is the "peckerhead" and there should be a diagram on the nameplate to show you how to combine the coils for 110. Similar to
I scored a 1971 or so Rockwell Bandsaw and jointer (of unkown manufacture) back at Christmas for $25. The motor on the jointer is going to need to be rewired or replaced, it just looks like a hazard waiting to happen.
quote:Originally posted by firstharmonic
Re your electrical wiring situation - if you don't want to use those last slots in your panel you could replace some of your single pole breakers with tandem breakers, sometimes referred to as "piggyback" breakers. They provide two 120 volt breakers in one panel slot. Simpler than installing a subpanel. And each tandem breaker installed frees up one slot in your panel. Just a thought.
Not a bad idea.
Did this when we put in the hot tub...
They Hurt Way More People than Any other Saw
From Using Wrong Mostly
Even Had a Friend Who Had the head Drop Loose and Take his Arm Completely Off Midway Forearm
ZINGGGERS not a Good Deal
Pick Up a Good Slide Compound Instead[^]
Woody
Oops didn't read about the possibility of a welder, yep, it needs 50amp although I'd hate to hook 50a up to the RA saw. If you have 200a to your shop then put in a secondary breaker box, problems solved.
Why?
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
quote:Originally posted by 320090T
Oops didn't read about the possibility of a welder, yep, it needs 50amp although I'd hate to hook 50a up to the RA saw. If you have 200a to your shop then put in a secondary breaker box, problems solved.
Why?
That amperage will crawl right down the wires and burn up your new saw,......that's why![:0][;)]
quote:Originally posted by Mr. Perfect
quote:Originally posted by 320090T
Oops didn't read about the possibility of a welder, yep, it needs 50amp although I'd hate to hook 50a up to the RA saw. If you have 200a to your shop then put in a secondary breaker box, problems solved.
Why?
That amperage will crawl right down the wires and burn up your new saw,......that's why![:0][;)]
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
I'll side with ross on this one. I looked into a RAS about 3 years ago and found that they were few new ones available for the home/hobby guys. I bought a DeWalt 10" sliding compound miter saw and love it. Granted not 12" but does everything I need. Sure, it wasn't $100. but I felt the extra cost was worth it.
I had one that had been my Grandfathers. I used it for a number of years but it always scared me. I needed the bench space when I got a compound mitre, so my dad actually has it. I dont think he has ever used it.
quote:Originally posted by cbxjeff
I'll side with ross on this one. I looked into a RAS about 3 years ago and found that they were few new ones available for the home/hobby guys. I bought a DeWalt 10" sliding compound miter saw and love it. Granted not 12" but does everything I need. Sure, it wasn't $100. but I felt the extra cost was worth it.
I had one that had been my Grandfathers. I used it for a number of years but it always scared me. I needed the bench space when I got a compound mitre, so my dad actually has it. I dont think he has ever used it.
I have a compound mitre saw, but it's only 10" and non sliding. I used my father's RAS a lot when I was growing up. Never saw a need for a table saw if you have one and know how to use it. But I do have a small table saw too.[:D]
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
If you don't feel like wiring for it, you can probably resell and make a few.[:)]
Good grief,.....for a hundred bucks, buy the stinking thing.
If you don't feel like wiring for it, you can probably resell and make a few.[:)]
Am going to later tonight.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
quote:Originally posted by Marc1301
Good grief,.....for a hundred bucks, buy the stinking thing.
If you don't feel like wiring for it, you can probably resell and make a few.[:)]
Am going to later tonight.
Good,....BTW, was that pic you posted of a young Shep Smith?
Just curious as the kid has lipstick on it appears.
The mascara would come later of course.
With 2 vertical milling machines, one horizontal milling, lathe, 20" DoAll bandsaw, 16" Delta Radial Arm Saw and a 10" Powermatic table saw, 50 ton press, Lincoln Tig, Miller Mig, my shop is full.
Don't know how anybody gets by with less.
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
i have an old 10 inch now it works fine must be 25yrs old.
sliding chop saws were not like they are now, they have come along way.
i would list a belt drive table saw as first to have in the shop follwed by the RA air compresser nail gun. thats all you realy need in big power tools.
now my chop saw joiner planer are nice to have.
one thing i have for the RA is a snake grinder, you dont see these very often, just a overgrown drimel.
the whine of a good sharp blade on the RA signals work is going on,when building cabients i dont bother shuting it down.
making dawrers with just a RA with dadito bottoms, yea show me that one with a slidin chop saw.
ciricles for lazy susans is work for the table saw, never had a bandsaw that i could afford that was worth having.
quote:Originally posted by evileye fleagal
save the last slot for a 100 amp then throw it to a kicker panel
I have 200amp service for the whole place. I was thinking 50amp breaker. What's the advantage to doing it your way? Seems like it has the potential for too much draw, if I get tempted to add more breakers in the kicker.[:D]
as long as you dont exceed 100 amps you will be fine,this way you will still have 3 more doubles to add to if need arises
That's my biggest hassle, wrestling a full sheet home and then hacking it up for a project.