In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
any auto mechanic's in pic added
tazzer
Member Posts: 16,837
Iv got a 1990 toyota camry that make a loud noise when I make turns
its coming from the front rt. tire.
could it be the ball joints going out if so whats a avg. cost to get it fixed.
thanks
taz
Im dont know much but if I can take it apart I can put it back togather [:D]
is this the cv joint or is the big one above this. if so could be my problem looks bad anyways
I am going to sale the car and just want to get it in good shape and this is its main problem.
taz
its coming from the front rt. tire.
could it be the ball joints going out if so whats a avg. cost to get it fixed.
thanks
taz
Im dont know much but if I can take it apart I can put it back togather [:D]
is this the cv joint or is the big one above this. if so could be my problem looks bad anyways
I am going to sale the car and just want to get it in good shape and this is its main problem.
taz
Comments
Is the backing plate in contact with to rotor at all?
Does it make a growling noise only when you turn left or right? If so it could be a wheel bearing.
Need more info.
If it's worse when you accelerate during a turn I would say CV joints. My wife had a Honda CRV that did that and it was pretty easy to fix.
CV joints...yep
I was quoted $680 to replace a wheel bearing on an 87. labor here is $85/hr though. (did it myself for $29 in parts and free labor.) 87-91 Camry's are 2nd generation. think the only difference in the front end is the earlier ones had a cam/shim on one of the lower strut mount bolts for camber adjustment and the later ones didn't.
Could be a ball joint(only one at the bottom of the knuckle),or a tie rod end.
Do you get a shimmy at speed?
First check your lug nuts. (don't laugh... you never know)
Jack it up about 2" off the ground...
Bent backing plate,wheel bearing,or brakes. spin the wheel and listen.
Jack it up about 2" off the ground put a bar under the tire and bounce it to check for ball joint play.
Grab the tire and shake it back and forth for tie rod play.
Or get under it and have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth from lock to lock,if anything's loose you'll see it.
Saw one that one of the stabilizer bar bushing brackets had torn out.
You'll need the alignment checked afterward,so figure that in too.
Like has already been said... What kind of a sound?
Is it popping,growling, or grinding (wheel bearing really gone and the wheel about to fall off)
Oh the Haynes manual sucks.
Wanted to add. The entire axle is available at Advance. And easier to replace than just the CV joint alone.
Allen
Yep, CV shaft. Cheap easy fix.
Yep.
real loud. You'll never
hear it again!
if your just sitting and turn the wheel it wwont make the noise
and yes the more you accelerate during a turn the louder it is,
taz
Just turn the radio up
real loud. You'll never
hear it again!
that's some funny crap right there[:D][:D][:D]... its the cv joint tazz,i agree
That is a bad cv joint. in order to find out which side, the bad one is the one on the left if it clicks on a right turn, or vice versa. At our establishment, it sometimes is a better value to replace the whole cv axle or half shaft than just the joint.
it makes the nosie when turning left
how hard is it to replace and thanks to everyone for all the info
I really like the turn the music up one the best [:D][:D]
when a potential buyer wants to test drive it, give him a route with all right turns![;)]
the picture of the lower ball joint..it sure looks dry, the cv joint is inside the rubber boot above it,, if the ball joint fails and breaks off your wheel will just flop out sideways is all[:D]
ahhh that dont sound to bad [}:)][B)][:D]
quote:Originally posted by tomahawk
the picture of the lower ball joint..it sure looks dry, the cv joint is inside the rubber boot above it,, if the ball joint fails and breaks off your wheel will just flop out sideways is all[:D]
ahhh that dont sound to bad [}:)][B)][:D]
Thats only if you are unlucky.. About three months ago I noticed something wrong on my 150 so i jacked it up and the whole tire would move from under the truck. drove it for a little while just real careful. cost 700 to fix it. Did you put a bar under the tire and see if it moved?
quote:Originally posted by Johnnylikesguns
Just turn the radio up
real loud. You'll never
hear it again!
Iv got a 1990 toyota camry that make a loud noise when I make turns
its coming from the front rt. tire.
could it be the ball joints going out if so whats a avg. cost to get it fixed.
thanks
taz
Im dont know much but if I can take it apart I can put it back togather [:D]
is this the cv joint or is the big one above this. if so could be my problem looks bad anyways
I am going to sale the car and just want to get it in good shape and this is its main problem.
taz
What kind of noise, scraping or clunking?
tazz, what your pointing to is the lower ball joint. the cv joint is in the rubber boot above it
yep and I think I need to replace both [B)][xx(]
the ball joint looks easy but the cv [:0][B)][:D]
quote:Originally posted by tomahawk
tazz, what your pointing to is the lower ball joint. the cv joint is in the rubber boot above it
yep and I think I need to replace both [B)][xx(]
the ball joint looks easy but the cv [:0][B)][:D]
on toyotas it is cheaper to buy the whole axle assembly from ghettozone and replace it than just the cv joint. Much easier too
oh, and be careful if you take it to a mechanic. i have had dealings with some who, once they have the car in the garage for the cv joint try to tell ya the upper and lower ball joints need replaced, tie rod ends are bad, struts need replaced, and the rack and pinion is going out (while we got everything else off might as well take care of that, it will save ya in the long run.) it went from a 3-- dollar fix to them happily giving me a quote for well over a thousand dollars. nah just fix what i brought it in for, and that will be fine i say. cant do it they say, too much of a liability we cant let you leave in that car. either i leave in that car or a police car i say. huh? he says. ill be in the cop car, cause youll be in an ambulance if you try to keep me from leaving. got the work done elsewhere, where i was told that none of the other parts needed replacing.
They are rather easy to replace. Much like replacing an axle shaft on a Jeep Cherokee. If I remember correctly it takes a 30MM socket to remove the axle nut. If you do not have an impact wrench or breaker bar. You can make a tool for removing the nut.
I made this one for the jeeps and carry it with me to replace a busted hub assemblies if needed.
$10 NAPA socket and a piece of 1" mine roof bolt alone with a 32" long 1 1/2" section of steel pipe to use as a cheater bar.
If you have a 4 cylinder engine and a solid axle Some have a two piece axle shaft on the right (passengers) side.
Remove the axle nut. If the car wants to move. Have someone hold the brake.
Jack the car up.
Remove the tire.
Remove the brake caliper.
Remove the Hub assembly.
Pry or work the axle out of the transmission. They can be hard to get out at times. But it will come out.
V6 models are a little different and harder to get out.
PS: The axle nuts are put on from the factory with aprox 250 to 300 foot pounds of torque.
+ or - a couple. [:0]
I had to use a 4' 'cheater' pipe and jump on it.
Haynes manual shows using a big screwdriver between the lug bolts to keep it from turning... I broke it loose with the wheel still on the ground and scooted the whole car!
PS: soaking them in a little bit of brake fluid will bring those joints right out.
Allen
"PS: The axle nuts are put on from the factory with aprox 250 to 300 foot pounds of torque."
+ or - a couple. [:0]
I had to use a 4' 'cheater' pipe and jump on it.
Allen
You will have that if they have never been changed before. Heat and rust will make you thank that they were welded to the axle.. A dab of Anti Seize will prevent them from sticking again. On the Jeeps I will remove them first thing. Apply anti seize and tighten them up with the tool I made and the 32" cheater pipe and let them go. That way i know that they will not be bad to get off in the field if needed.