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Hey You Woodworkers

asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
edited February 2011 in General Discussion
I need some advice about working with veneer.

What I have here, is some maple burl veneer that's roughly .025" thick that I plan to use to replace the woodgrain on my Wagoneer with.
Since it is so thin, and brittle, what I'm thinking is to use a hide glue to attach paper to the face to help support it and make it easier to cut and work with while gluing it into place and then block sand the paper off prior to finishing.

Does that sound like a plan? Or is there something else that might work better?

Also. What would be the best tool and technique to cut this with?
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Comments

  • grumpygygrumpygy Member Posts: 48,464 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Burl is very hard to work with. Used to put Veneer on all sorts of Particle and Plywood.

    I was using a Hot press to do it and was able to keep the Veneer from Cracking more by misting it down real good just before I put it in the press.

    The way you want to use it I would not even try.

    Not even sure how you would be able to keep pressure on it till thye glue cured.
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  • evileye fleagalevileye fleagal Member Posts: 4,238 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    im thinkin that there is a wettin or steamim process in there some where.
    we would cut with garden shears.
    make templates out of paper first. hint hint

    spray glue
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  • grumpygygrumpygy Member Posts: 48,464 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    As long as its a square shape. This was what I used.

    MY_Premier-T12and15.jpg
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  • HangfireHangfire Member Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    What size is the piece of veneer? What adhesive are you going to use? Are you putting it on a flat or curved surface ?
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  • grumpygygrumpygy Member Posts: 48,464 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Check this out.

    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=119188
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  • asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    What I plan to use to attach it to the Wag with is 3M High Strength 90 spray adhesive. It's pretty stout stuff with high heat resistance.
    http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=C5QCBMHR92be2VP2LSN43Qgl

    The strips will be 5" wide and range from 28" to 47" in length. The four sheets I have now are 15"x64".

    The areas of woodgrain in the pic is what I will be replacing once I have the rest of the body and paint work done.
    shtgns022.jpg
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  • asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by grumpygy
    Check this out.

    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=119188


    I'm registered over at IFSJA and missed that one somehow.
    Way cool.

    What I have in mind isn't nearly as extravagant. Just want the narrow strip inside the chrome trim.

    I really need to lean to use my spell checker
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  • HangfireHangfire Member Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    OK, those are manageable sizes.. Here's the method I use to flatten burls..

    I use this solution to mist the veneer first.. 6 parts water- 3 parts alcohol- 1 part glycerin.. I sandwich the veneer between two pieces of 3/4 plywood.. If it's really wavy, just set the top piece on until it starts to flatten, then add weight and/or clamp until it's flat..

    Probably should leave it overnight.. The plywood will wick the moisture, and it should be dry by morning.. If it still seems too brittle for ya, use the same set-up to glue the paper backing, only this time use some wax paper so it doesn't stick..You might not need the paper.. Use razorblades to cut it.. You can use the same plywood for a flat cutting board..Anything else will crumble the edges..I use a steel framing square as a straight edge for cutting..

    When you're ready to use the adhesive, just wipe the glue-side of the veneer with an alcohol-damp rag.. If you decide to use the paper backing with hide glue, it's not that easy to sand off without going through the veneer.. It's better to use a wet cloth to LIGHTLY dampen the paper and slightly soften the glue, the use a single-edge razor blade to carefully scrape the goo off.. Get the bulk of it, let it dry, then sand.. Hide glue is a good choice since, for your purpose, it softens easily for removal..

    Sounds like alot of instructions, but it goes quite smoothly [8D].. You'll get the feel of it..
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  • asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Ya kinda lost me there for a moment Barzillia. No, it's not you, it's me. I ain't had enough sleep the last couple of days.

    Where ya lost me was sanding the back. No need for that though since I intend to use the 3M on the back when I attach it to the fender/door. You did give me a thought though. Plain old rubber cement might work. Then I could just peel the paper off and rub the cement off with a dry sponge.
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  • asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Way cool Hangfire. You brought up something I had forgotten to ask about. Gettin' this stuff to lay flat. I knew plain water was out, but had no idea what would work. Thanks.[:D]

    I've got a good utility knife and 40"x2" rule I could use for cutting and a straight edge. You think the utility knife would work, or should I have a thinner blade?

    I'm takin' notes, btw, and will put them in the box with the veneer.
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  • HangfireHangfire Member Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You're welcome.. Each project has it's own particulars, but that should get ya started[8D]..
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  • grumpygygrumpygy Member Posts: 48,464 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by asphalt cowboy
    Way cool Hangfire. You brought up something I had forgotten to ask about. Gettin' this stuff to lay flat. I knew plain water was out, but had no idea what would work. Thanks.[:D]

    I've got a good utility knife and 40"x2" rule I could use for cutting and a straight edge. You think the utility knife would work, or should I have a thinner blade?

    I'm takin' notes, btw, and will put them in the box with the veneer.


    Utility Knife is OK cross Grain. But with the Grain good luck Keeping the blade straight even with a straight edge.
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  • oldemagicsoldemagics Member Posts: 5,846 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    another thought to help strengthen/support the veneer is frisket
    you will fine it at art suppoly stores, it is a clear plastic with light adhesive on the back used for doing paint work
    basically a removeable stencil material which is MADE to be removeable without harming fairly fresh paint under it so it removes cleanly without damaging the surface it was stuck to
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  • MMOMEQ-55MMOMEQ-55 Member Posts: 13,134
    edited November -1
    If I understand what you are wanting to do with the veneer that veneer will not last long at all. Even covered with spar varnish the veneer will deteriorate fast. Veneer will not handle the out doors well. If you use epoxy to cover the veneer first then spar varnish with UV inhibitors you might have a chance of it lasting a little while.

    One of my way to many hobbies is building wooden boats. I have tried to use veneers in the past with bad results. Between the sun and moisture the thin wood deteriorates fast.

    Unless you are not planning to take your Wagoneer out in bad weather then it might last. Love those Wagoneers but hate their gas milage. I had a couple back in the 80s.

    Good luck with your project.
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