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? for you grease monkeys.......

hillbillehillbille Member Posts: 14,464 ✭✭✭✭
edited January 2013 in General Discussion
Or should I say rust monkeys, I need to change the donut gasket on my truck, it is held together by 3 bolts in a triangle shape. can only get to the nuts from the bottom and If I brake the bolts I can only get to one from the top to drill out. I have been soaking them for the last 3 days with rust buster just tried to break one loose and it wouldn't budge. I have to use about a foot or better of extensions to reach the nut. gonna cost me a hundred dollar bill at the shop if they don't break one and have to drill out, so I could end up with a couple hundred in it If I break all three.
I can't reach it with any heat, to tight angle for a torch. any ideas??? would be more afraid to take manifold off as I am sure to break a few of those studs. Truck has 197,00 on it gotta get leak fixed to pass inspection....[:(!]
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Comments

  • LaegerLaeger Member Posts: 675 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Start the engine and let the exaust heat it for you.
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  • hillbillehillbille Member Posts: 14,464 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Laeger
    Start the engine and let the exaust heat it for you.


    only gets hot enough to burn my fingers, not really a help on loosening the nut..........
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  • deputydog214deputydog214 Member Posts: 609 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Try to tighten the bolt one quarter of a turn before trying to loosen. As stated start the engine for about ten minutes to warm things. If you break a bolt check with the auto parts store. They make a part that looks like a " c" clamp that fits on the manifold and pipe collar.
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  • evileye fleagalevileye fleagal Member Posts: 4,238 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    those are the worst, get some good rust buster get it on the studs too.
    i've had better luck getting them out better then the nuts.

    do not reuse them, new one are to cheap.
    yes they well heat up enough with just engine heat,yes the less extensions you use the better.

    good luck

    as dad said when i was shimming a starter,thats the game you have to play.
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  • woodhogwoodhog Member Posts: 13,115 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've had better luck with kroil than anything I ever tried. Gets into 1 millionth of an inch.
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  • Mr. PerfectMr. Perfect Member, Moderator Posts: 66,437 ******
    edited November -1
    I've found that it helps to hit the bolt with a few very sharp raps to help free it.

    BTW, around here, if you don't pass inspection, they allow you to spend as little as 30 bucks to try to fix the problem. If you can't get if fixed with $30 bucks you can still pass.
    Some will die in hot pursuit
    And fiery auto crashes
    Some will die in hot pursuit
    While sifting through my ashes
    Some will fall in love with life
    And drink it from a fountain
    That is pouring like an avalanche
    Coming down the mountain
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  • hillbillehillbille Member Posts: 14,464 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    guess I got ahead of myself, I could feel the "wind" from the hiss of the compresion stroke at the donut gasket, got mad, called a friend at a local garage who does a lot of exhaust work, he told me he would change it out for $50. Took it to him he put it up on the lift immediatly said it not the donut gasket, come to find out it is either a head gasket or cracked head, the leak is straight out the back of the head, his mirror would fog up as soon as he held it to the back of the motor.

    its been 25 years since I have had a motor apart but I guess this weekend I will be tearing one down again. won't know till I get the head off if it is gasket or cracked head.....[V] motor has 197,000 on it hate to put a lot of money in it. but for a 120-150 in parts I will try the gasket first. looks like I will be busy this weekend.
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  • evileye fleagalevileye fleagal Member Posts: 4,238 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    seems you would have noticed that, start with a vacumme/ comp tester and see what your getting into
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  • hillbillehillbille Member Posts: 14,464 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by evileye fleagal
    seems you would have noticed that, start with a vacumme/ comp tester and see what your getting into



    I can feel the leak If I hold my hand down low enough on the back of the motor, but you have to climb up in the engine compartment to reach back far enough to feel it. I think I will put the compresion gauge on it to make sure, but you can definately feel the pulse, and the puddle of antifreeze is on that side of the motor.....[V]
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  • evileye fleagalevileye fleagal Member Posts: 4,238 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by hillbille
    quote:Originally posted by evileye fleagal
    seems you would have noticed that, start with a vacumme/ comp tester and see what your getting into



    I can feel the leak If I hold my hand down low enough on the back of the motor, but you have to climb up in the engine compartment to reach back far enough to feel it. I think I will put the compresion gauge on it to make sure, but you can definately feel the pulse, and the puddle of antifreeze is on that side of the motor.....[V]
    just so much more after you get in there, cracked piston bent vales crushed lifter, fun things happen when water is sqeezed enough to blow out the gasket. just have to check it all, right down to the head bolts and head/ block decks
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  • gesshotsgesshots Member Posts: 15,678 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Heat to dry the oil out >> Muratic acid (several applications w/ eyedropper) >> couple of short sharp shocks (Pink Floyd reference) >> Kroil, WD-40 etc. >> wrench. Repeat as needed. [;)]
    It's being willing. I found out early that most men, regardless of cause or need, aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger. I won't. ~ J.B. Books
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  • hillbillehillbille Member Posts: 14,464 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by evileye fleagal
    quote:Originally posted by hillbille
    quote:Originally posted by evileye fleagal
    seems you would have noticed that, start with a vacumme/ comp tester and see what your getting into



    I can feel the leak If I hold my hand down low enough on the back of the motor, but you have to climb up in the engine compartment to reach back far enough to feel it. I think I will put the compresion gauge on it to make sure, but you can definately feel the pulse, and the puddle of antifreeze is on that side of the motor.....[V]
    just so much more after you get in there, cracked piston bent vales crushed lifter, fun things happen when water is sqeezed enough to blow out the gasket. just have to check it all, right down to the head bolts and head/ block decks


    exactly.....[V] and with almost 200,000 miles I can get a long block for 1500, but is it worth the money? I may just replace the gasket and try and sell it, it is a 3/4 ton with the one ton suspension, electric brakes ect. I only used it a few years to pull a big deisel tractor I had. I have owned the truck since 92,00 almost 12 years now. just hate to put alot into it, but I know I can't replace it for under $2000.
    Eagle the idle is as smooth as can be, that is what is throwing me off, I would think with a bad head, or gasket the idle would be rough....
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  • RosieRosie Member Posts: 14,525 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think 7 lines for the gun description and about 40 for rules are a little excessive.
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  • hillbillehillbille Member Posts: 14,464 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Rosie
    I think 7 lines for the gun description and about 40 for rules are a little excessive.


    rosie I think you are on the wrong thread............
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  • n/an/a Member Posts: 168,427 ✭
    edited November -1
    If there is any room I would try one of the "nut breakers", you slip it over the nut and tighten until it "splits" the nut then you use a wrench/socket (sometimes next size up) to turn it.

    As a diesel/bus/coach mechanic since 1981 I've found the Snap-on "nut-breaker" the best. You may have to drop the exhaust manifold and remove exhaust system hangers to gain some room. If all else fails, use a torch.
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  • Ditch-RunnerDitch-Runner Member Posts: 25,413 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    This has worked for me many times ( growing up a broke kid and few tools) if the studs break which they normaly do, in the rust belt zones . no big deal just remove the exhaust manifold completly and drill out whats left of the studs if you lucky ( bettery lucky than good sometimes) tap them out with the correct size tap if not simple fix drop a bolt thru the new hole from the top the stud left for you after drilling it out. tighten up with a nut and lock washer when you reinstall it good to go and a lot of old trucks and cars still in use with no leaks maybe not the best but it works and has many tims
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  • ForkliftkingForkliftking Member Posts: 4,907 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Go borrow a straight tip torch. Or get a brazing torch instead of a cutting torch. Heating the nuts to nearly red will probably be the only way to keep from breaking them off. When you replace the gasket, also buy the brass nuts to put it back together and you won't have this problem the next time. If you lived closer, you could run by my shop and I'd remove them for you.
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  • 35 Whelen35 Whelen Member Posts: 14,307 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Soak it with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.
    An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it.
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