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Mechanic question

FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
edited May 2009 in General Discussion
Does anyone know the socket/nut size of the front wheel bearing nut on a '92 Olds Bravada? I'd assume it's likely the same as a similar year model Chevy Blazer. My socket set has disappeared.
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    My '93 F-150 w/4.9 6 overheats when sitting still. Like in traffic jam or at idle. Runs/cools fine when moving. Any idea what might be problem?
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    The driver side front wheel of my '88 Ford F-150 is pulling severely to that side. Jacked it up and wheel is nearly locked up. Will barely turn w/force. But no wobble or screeching sound that in my experience go w/bad bearings.
    Pulled the outer bearing. A lttle dry, but looked OK. No metal frags inside hub. Packed a bunch of grease in hub (to hopefully work into inner bearing. Packed outer bearing, took test drive. Still pulling.
    I'm thinking the brake is somehow grabbing. Is there any "Easy Fix" to this that doesn't require removing the brakes? Your thoughts?
    BTW: Put new fan clutch on the 93 yesterday. Just what the doctor ordered! Thanks for the info help!
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    I drive a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, 6-cylinder engine, manual tranny, 99,000 miles. Yesterday, drove to a friends house, stayed a few minutes, and when I went to leave, Jeep wouldn't start. No electrical power at all: door buzzer wouldn't buzz, no lights worked at all, etc. Starter wouldn't "click" or anything. Nothing! Boosted it off, and it started and ran ok until cables were removed, then it would die. Figured the battery had shorted out somehow. Had to hook the jumper cables back up to roll the windows up before I left it, but this time it started and ran OK. Quickly drove it home, but the "check gauges" light was on, and the voltometer was pegged out, showing a charge of 20 (as hight as it will show!). Got home, and it promptly died. No power, nothing, nada, same as before. Went out last night to remove the battery so I could take it to town today to have it checked. Raised the hood, and the underhood light worked! Tried to start it, and it started right up, voltometer was right where it should have been, and everything seemed fine.

    Sorry for the long description, but what could have happened, and what do I need to check to keep it from doing this again?
    Thanks!
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    While driving my brother's 06 ford f350 diesel pickup, the truck just died. Could not get it started again. Towed it home, replaced the fuel filters,and still nothing. I am getting fuel to the top fuel filter, but it wont start. Any ideas?
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    My daughter has a 2000 Grand Prix/3.8 V-6 that won't run. From what they describe to me, it will start and run fine w/no misses etc for a few minutes in the morning. Then die and will not re-start for the rest of the day.
    Any ideas as what problem might be?
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    Well, kind of. My daughter has 2003 Chevy Ex/Cab pickup purchase used recently. Has a flat, can't find the jack. I will go there tomorrow. Where is the jack supposed to be?
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    Daughter has a '95 Mustang. Having braking problems. Brakes don't grind or squeak. No loss of fluid. Peddle is good (stiff).
    But they just doesn't stop the car reliably. They will slow it down to an eventual stop. But nothing you can count on in a short distance.
    I thought I'd had about every kind of brake malfunction one could have. But this is a new one. Exhibits 0 symptoms of usual brake problems (except of course failure to stop car).
    I can do break jobs. But won't have time for a few days. Until then she can drive one of our vehicles. But just curious.
    Anyone ever experience this? What might it be?
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    My parents own a '98 Dodge Dakota pickup w/a V-6 engine. Yesterday it overheated. Today I investigated and found that a valve (heater control valve) on the heater hose was leaking. A trip to both Autozone and O'Reilly's reveal that a replacement is unavailable (through them at least).
    Can this valve be bypassed by adding a piece of tubing between the hoses? And if so, what about the vacuum line that also attached to he valve? Any help appreciated.
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    Just talked to my dad. The breaks on his '89 Ford Taurus are looked up. Drove it last week, everything fine. Parked in garage, now it won't budge. What the heck would cause that?
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    PLEASE NOTE: I AM NOT A MECHANIC. I CAN CHANGE OIL, TAKE TIRES OFF, AND HAVE A SET OF METRIC TOOLS, BUT I AM NOT VERY EXPERIENCED WITH THE GUTS OF ENGINES.

    With the above said, I am happy to report that I am continuing on my committment to never drive a car that I paid more than $1500 for. I manage to stay mobile in various cars that are given to me or that I buy cheap. I see no benefit to driving a $25,000 car when for a little sacrifice of ego I can motorvate in economical style. Currently, I am driving a 1995 Cadillac that was a friend's mother's car. Great ride but not so good through the woods fishing and hunting.

    I just got a 1985 Mercedes Benz 300TD Wagon that is in real good shape. Everything works well and it drives great. Cruise, air, AT and good tires and breaks. 291,000 miles is rumored to be just about broken in on this car!

    I need a driver's seat, or need to have this seat redone. Is this easily done by an auto upholstery shop, or should I buy a seat from JC Whitney for $159?

    Ideas, questions, concerns, comments, complaints....all are welcome.
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    Here's the problem. I have a '95 Chevy Z-71 that I recently had a new motor put in. Ever since the motor swap, when I try to start the truck, the motor will not turn over very fast, as if the battery is almost dead. After I replaced the battery, it seemed to help a little, but it has went back to the same old thing. So then I replaced the alternator, thinking that it might be that. Nope, still does it. Checked all the connections, and haven't found anything wrong there. Today, it done the same thing. To the point that it wouldn't turn over. Set there a few minutes, tried to start it again, and it started right up, as if there was no problem at all.

    So, what might the problem be? Am I looking over something simple? Thanks in advance, oh wise ones.
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  • GuvamintCheeseGuvamintCheese Member Posts: 38,932
    edited November -1
    Sorry, Im not a mechanic....but I did stay at a holiday inn express!

    Did "he" set the emergency brake?????
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by cartod
    Sorry, Im not a mechanic....but I did stay at a holiday inn express!

    Did "he" set the emergency brake?????

    [:D] Have to admit, that was my 1st question too. Says he didn't.
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  • wlfmn323wlfmn323 Member Posts: 4,712
    edited November -1
    sister had a tempo, that the brakes locked up on. she let the pads get down too far, and the rotors were too thin so the calipers went all the way out and stayed all the way out.
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  • Horse Plains DrifterHorse Plains Drifter Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 39,863 ***** Forums Admin
    edited November -1
    Front, rear, or all?
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  • grumpygygrumpygy Member Posts: 48,464 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Drum or disc rear.
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  • screwobamascrewobama Member Posts: 625 ✭
    edited November -1
    He has it in a gear other then "P" or "N" right? Otherwise motor should have enough power to overpower the brakes unless torque converter causes motor to stall.
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  • FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by screwobama
    He has it in a gear other then "P" or "N" right? Otherwise motor should have enough power to overpower the brakes unless torque converter causes motor to stall.

    He says ALL brakes locked. Evidently has it in proper gear. Says it screeches when he tries to move it. Doesn't kill the motor.
    BTW: Dad was always meticulos about his car care. Kind of fell off now that he's getting so old (80's). But that Taurus has been well cared for and serviced. Looks brand new inside and out. Just to say we're not talking about a 21 year old junker.
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  • select-fireselect-fire Member Posts: 69,446 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Buy a Corvette
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  • SuwanneePirateSuwanneePirate Member Posts: 65 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    When the flex line that goes to the caliper goes bad it will stick a caliper. But usually only one at a time . The hoses are multi layer and tend to rupture inside and the fluid gets inbetween the layers and forms a bubble of fluid blocking the passage of fluid returning to the resoviour thus locking up the caliper. Its very unusual for all four to be locked up ,could be something in the master cylinder ,as a worn piston getting cocked sideways and not letting the pressure to release.
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  • GuvamintCheeseGuvamintCheese Member Posts: 38,932
    edited November -1
    If he is hearing one of the tires squeel it would seem that it is the one locked up not all of them. If they were all locked up he would have to be flooring it to make it move. If you can't go look at it, you either need to call a tow truck and have it towed to a reputable garage or have someone go over and check it out. Jack it up and see which ones are spinning free and which ones are locked.

    Its gonna need some work either way, fortunatly its just brakes.
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