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Bedding Compound...update! IDing action.
kidthatsirish
Member Posts: 6,985 ✭✭✭
What's your favorite bedding compound and why?
EDIT.......
I need help IDing the bottom half of this action! Look below for the link pictures.
EDIT.......
I need help IDing the bottom half of this action! Look below for the link pictures.
Comments
its soft...
egyptian cotton
its soft...
In all seriousness though I'm thinking of bedding the action in one of my hunting rifles...
I know acraglass is often recommended....but what do others use?
Thanks CAPT.... that was ever so insightful....[}:)][:p]
In all seriousness though I'm thinking of bedding the action in one of my hunting rifles...
I know acraglass is often recommended....but what do others use?
Don wasn't around so I felt the urge to help out...
In the whole pile that I have accumulated over the years I only have one rifle that has been bedded...
It was done when I bought it - a heavy bench rest specialty custom rem 700 in .14 Donaldson wasp
I believe it's glass bedded - I had always assumed fiberglass but honestly it's a subject I have little experience with
I watch and read with interest
Mike
I have used in jb weld on other projects before....what was the tungeston for? Does it give some extra property to it?
It is almost twice as dense as lead (19.3 grams/cc vs 11.) Perhaps just for the heft?
quote:Originally posted by kidthatsirish
I have used in jb weld on other projects before....what was the tungeston for? Does it give some extra property to it?
It is almost twice as dense as lead (19.3 grams/cc vs 11.) Perhaps just for the heft?
I suppose that would make pretty good sense on a target/varmit rifle or one that is chambered in a magnum cartridge.....good point.
I have used in jb weld on other projects before....what was the tungeston for? Does it give some extra property to it?
I think he believed that it strengthened it a little bit. I don't know if it really does, but I don't think it hurts it any. I will say that it does make it more difficult to shave any excess off, if it happens to push out between the stock and barrel or receiver.
I have always used Acraglass with good results so had no reason to change.
Prior it was free floated, but after doing everything to get a decent group, an old gunsmith told me to bed it because heavy magnum loads in Sporter profile barrels caused to much barrel whip.
Bedded it, and now Elk Slayer will put 3 shots you can cover with a dime. Every time.
Just be sure to was the barrel and action really well.
Never cared for the standard (do they still make it?) Acraglas that heats up and that you have to work FAST with!! [xx(]
Back in the early 90's I had Glenn Nelson build be a M1 Garand for service rifle competition. He beaded the gun with Marine-Tex. I could not tell you how much I shot that gun but to be sure it is a lot. The bedding has held up like a champ.
Those would be my 2 picks.
Like others have said use clay or putty to block off ares and use a lot of relief agent so the action is not mechanically locked to the stock, yep I know about that[B)]
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
I was reading an article recently on free-float vs. bedding. The thrust of the article was that free floating a bbl, is the cheap and lazy way to do it since a good bedding for a bbl is difficult to do. I've never taken the time to look into it more than just the one article. Anyone here with more gunsmithing experience care to weigh in?
I'm not a gunsmith by any means but I full length bedded a few stocks as more of a waterproofing and strengthening job. I free floated the barrels by using heavy duct tape the full length of the barrel to create the gap.
Links to pics are below.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gjuli9a4dd3wzhh/20171001_191848.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p23squi7jigbwtv/20171001_191854.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j60rwpodyaq3qqn/20171001_191859.jpg?dl=0
quote:Originally posted by Mr. Perfect
I was reading an article recently on free-float vs. bedding. The thrust of the article was that free floating a bbl, is the cheap and lazy way to do it since a good bedding for a bbl is difficult to do. I've never taken the time to look into it more than just the one article. Anyone here with more gunsmithing experience care to weigh in?
I'm not a gunsmith by any means but I full length bedded a few stocks as more of a waterproofing and strengthening job. I free floated the barrels by using heavy duct tape the full length of the barrel to create the gap.
Then what you did was SEAL the stock with bedding compound. Unless you pressure injected the epoxy into the stock, a thin skin coat in the barrel channel did little of anything to 'strengthen' the stock.
I know 'gun writers' have to sell articles, but an article about 'Bedding' VS 'Free floating' a barrel? Most bedding (and pillars) is (are) done to allow the barrel to 'free float'. The other advantage is the uniformity of breaking down the stock/action and reassembly.
Free floating allows the barrel to repeat it's natural harmonics (repeat-ability) from shot to shot.
IIRC Accra Glass has fiberglass strands within the epoxy. This is partly what gives it it's strength. Those micro strands end up in a random pattern within the hardened epoxy and resist movement (compression). Simply adding a filler material won't provide the same benefit.
Just an FYI: FORD used 'nano clay' strands to strengthen the plastic fascias on their cars. Lighter weight and a stronger part than one using RRIM.
Have you posted this over in ask the experts forum? Not to say they never venture over here, but you might be able to get some answers over there too
Yes I have.... however that link was already locked So I continued with this one in the hopes of getting more eyes on the pictures and increasing the chance of an id.
nononsense could probably tell you for sure.
you still need pillars for the '03' action, but....with a flat bottom action pillars are a waist of time. especially if the stock is a solid wood, not spongy at the tang area. a good bedding job does it all.
Right: AND I've used the Brownells Acraglass GEL in the green /white box for years with very good results. Never did care for the old style Brownells Red/white box acraglass, seemed to grainy and harder to work and get a smooth texture.
I've always free floated the barrel on rifles from about 2 inches in front of the recoil lug forward. Proper bedding and free floating the barrel allows me to remove a action from a stock and re-install the stock and the rifle is still on MOA target. The barrel vibrations remain the same. A proper bedding job can be determined by using a dial caliper on the barrel and loosening and tightening the action screws and the action on the gun should not move in the bedding as determined by reading the caliper. (several people that bed guns do not believe this can even be accomplished)
.001 inch of shift in a rifle barrel is approx 1 inch at 100 yards and a barrel with a pressure point has tendency to shift around on target more than a free floated barrel hot to cool. (plus other things)
I have never seen a rifle that I needed to apply a pressure point to the barrel or full length glass the barrel for best accuracy and I've tried such and consistent accuracy was always worse than with a free floated barrel when correct accuracy reload for the gun was found.
AND I also thinkknow JB weld products, especially their epoxies are over rated in their intended uses and I do know JB is not as good as the Acraglass Gel epoxy for anything.
quote:Can't tell for sure from the pics, but it looks like a Parker Hale.
I did a real quick search of my notes but this trigger guard floor plate is not for the Parker Hale. Parker Hale used a floor plate release on the inside of the trigger guard and the one you show is on the outside and up near the top of the trigger guard.
As to what company made this one, it's still up for grabs.
I gave my opinions about bedding on AtE so there's no reason to be repetitive.
Best.
1) my rifle likely may not need pillar bedding...however as I I tend to keep the barrel free floated, and for the learning experience on a rifle that has been pretty cheap thus far I'm going to do it.
2) after literally hours of research I'm going to go with a devcon epoxy for the bedding both the pillars and action (I have read where some folks use different epoxies and I'm not about to buy off on that)
3) i did some measuring and have determined that pillars designed for a remmingtin 700 should do the trick nicely.
Thanks for all your help folks. :-)
I'll post some groups maybe when I'm done.